2010 toyota corrola driver side cv axle replacement 

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I viewed a number of these CV axle and seal replacement jobs, the mechanics inducing drama into the experience for no good reason. I always drain the transmission fluid into a clean pan first. Following that, I replace the drain plug with a new crush washer. Then I transfer the transmission fluid to a plastic container with a lid. After the transmission work is complete, I reintroduce the fluid back into the system using a funnel-shape paint filter. Finally, I start the vehicle and go through the gears five times, stopping at each gear for 2-seconds. My workspace remains spotless. Having the transmission drained during repairs, enables me to install seals into transmission housings oil free.

Thats your lower ball joints they will make that noise when its nearing their time

@@john8147 yeah I’m just not sure. Checked for play. Everything thing is solid. Looked like the boot was torn on the driver side half shaft. Ordered new axles but haven’t replaced yet. It’s so intermittent that I’m not in a hurry.

They're awesome.

I'm pretty sure if you had no leaking then no, unless you want to replace just to replace it you can

Its just Trans fluid.

Use vice grips and a 3 ft bolt then yank on the bolt. Or tie a long chain to the base of the axle and yank on it

I used a indexing pry bar which is adjustable popped it right out was done in under 30 minutes 💪

It depends on whether it is the driver-side or passenger-side CV axle. If it is the driver-side, one has to contend with the circlip. Have an assistant rotate the passenger-side wheel 30-degrees at a time on command. At each increment, pry against the tulip (aka tripod housing). It should take no longer than three-minutes of this procedure for the circlip to come into alignment, the axle popping out of the transmission upon prying. If it is the passenger-side, one has to contend with the infamous carrier bearing bracket, the bearing often rusted into the bracket. Have an assistant turn the driver-side wheel clockwise on command as you employ a Hackzall or Sawzall to through-cut the axle in two places: (1) flush with the back of the tulip and (2) a couple of inches inboard from the bracket. Use plenty of cutting fluid on your favorite thick-metal carbide tip blade, a blade 6-inches long. As, your assistant turns the wheel, you want to spiral in toward the center like the needle of a phonograph record. ***Warning: metal will come of the axle like searing glitter, so wear a welder's balaclava and long-sleeve shirt, especially safety goggles.

Not necessarily. One can reinstall the old transmission fluid by filtering it through a funnel-shaped paint filter. Just ensure the drain pan has been cleaned first.

Yes

Usually I remove the joint three bottom bolts that way no need for alignment

I will do a tour this week

You’ll definitely need an alignment if you mess with the tie rod I would rather not mess with it lol