I have a DC43 with a DC66 head on it. I had to replace the cyclone assembly on mine as it was suffering from smelly vacuum syndrome even after I washed it, and I decided to upgrade the head to one without the lines in the sole plate at the same time. I was later able to fix the smell issue of the old cyclone by using it to vacuum up some fragrance infused baking soda.
My Dyson did clean my friends very high traffic thrift store before it was brought up to the "lab" and yes the pre motor filter was washed before hand as well. By the way the seal that seals the cyclones off from the actual dirt bin at the bottom (hope that makes sense) was messed up when I got it and I had to put it back in place so just a cautionary note if they come off easily.
Can you please make a video showing how to disassemble & deep clean the DC41 Animal cyclonic canister upper portion (apart from the dust bin which is easy to disconnect)? You washed it in the tub but how do you open up the cyclonic portion? They have plastic 5 tabs around the top. I've tried to push them in with a screwdriver but they don't seem to want to move and I am hesitant to exert too much force with a steel screwdriver on a plastic canister tab.
Thanks for this current video, and the lessons learned here. My DC40, after opening and carefully cleaning much of the internals as described in many videos, now has a problem that I'm not able to resolve myself. The upright position does not stay 'locked', so the handle will drop to the floor, hence making it very difficult to use the floor/brush head and it's suction power. Have you got another video that I might find helpful, or have any other suggestions?
@@VacLab I have a DC65. Got home yesterday and my daughter looks sheepish and tells a story of vacuuming up some coins, and then the vac running hot. It seems fine, but I don't recall it running this hot previously so I'm looking for some baseline info.
Yup, completely false info. Even paid repair techs submerge the bins to remove pesky odors. The key is to dry them properly. Feel free to peruse my refurb playlist and you'll even see various electrical parts get cleaned in the tub. You have to watch out for people who don't understand Physics and Chemistry.
Any chance you can help me with a part number? I inherited a DC41, and it seems to be missing the elbow that connects between triangular opening in the canister and the duct on the handle assembly. doesn't show up on any parts diagrams I've looked at. It apparently also is the part with the serial number on it. Dyson wants me to bring it in for service, but I'm not driving 75 miles roundtrip to fix a vacuum.
Fantom licensed the design from james dyson, so it was james dysons cyclone system and hose setup that was on the fantoms, it was when the license expired fantom started to make even more crappy vacuums but with a single cyclone system, I believe this helped contribute to the bankruptcy of fantom, don’t get me wrong I don’t like at dysons at all, I think they are the worst piece of crap out there in the vacuum market
Yeah... Not a good idea to wash the cyclone without removing the foam gasket seals first (if they are rubber then it's ok). Water breaks them down and you will have to replace it if you dont want clumps of dust and hair making it to the filters. Torn seals degrade airflow as well, and just make suction worse over time. I've made the same mistake before.
There is a difference between dirty and damaged. A damaged seal can be easily heard and measured. If you have a suction and/or airflow meter leaks can be verified. The vast majority of Dyson seals are not damaged and that makes it unnecessary to fully disassemble them. If you know how to clean and dry them properly (without complete disassembly), there will be zero issues. My curb find Dyson's have been completely caked/clogged with everything imaginable and submerging them along with a quick dry process works every single time.