Rigid Collar Install Part 1 (Front) | Honda S2000 

Oh no! That is a pretty common mistake that happens when people mess with the steering wheel while it’s disconnected. I should have explicitly stated it but it’s implied that the steering wheel shouldn’t be rotated much while it’s disconnected. I’ll pin this comment for awareness.

I know for sure every single bolt will be stuck and caked in rust on my car 😂

This comment says it all. Instantly better drive. No bs.

I still believe it’s snake oil. If the subframe could move this much, the bolts would vibrate lose

Same situation. Did a while ago, trying to read Japanese instructions. This video would have saved a lot of time.

I don’t think I cleaned out one because I didn’t see how much junk came out until I was into the next one but everyone should definitely wipe away that stuff.

Deadlines by Dylan Sitts

No concern. Nickel has even higher temperature tolerance than copper so it should be fine.

I don’t have any experience but I was just discussing this with a buddy and I am considering it. The main reason being that my CR is primarily a track car and spends a lot of time above 8k RPM. I’m a bit skeptical since it is a lot of money to sink into a pulley though. I’m curious if the car will have less NVH. I may reach out to urge to setup a review. What do you think?

I could speak for Fluidampr (I think I had it installed in 2020), the ATI is just sitting atm. It won't cure NVH as I had it installed on my previously owned 2009 FA5, & currently my AP2v1. I wanted it it anyways for its wider RPM range protection. It will absorb the torsion characteristics the crankshaft has to uphold because i4 are naturally imbalanced. When crankshaft twists (torsional) during operation, the added vibration from it will affect it's position out of alignment/placement of the bearings (rod & main). Think how vibration affects oil flow smoothness, & generates additional heat too = Power loss. Vibrations that could NOT be dampened by Stock Pulley [@ w/e given range RPM] will then of course spread throughout the long block (oil pump &/or valvetrain failure). Keeping the operation as balance as possible also affect drivetrain power delivery from the powerhouse (engine) to your wheels. Not day & night noticeability, but it is a buy product from a more stable engine. Stock Pulley is limited in RPM protection range (I cannot say the range), but many will say, "Honda made it that way for a reason" as their uninformed 'reason' I would not recommend buying it for power gains or showing it off @ car meets.

@@jinnnguyen7077 right! Damper damps vibes crank feels, not vibes you feel. In doing so, you might feel the added smoothness, but that's a side benefit.

here is a mod I had on both FA5 & AP2v1 on top of Fluidampr **FA5 (stock internals except oil pump) Generic tune (VitViper) stock ice box mod RRC (FD2) IM, TB, & oil pump S2 Header straight pipe w/ Full Race Exhaust Hasport 70A engine mounts **AP2v1 (stock internals) stock ECU (was on Infinity) J's Racing T-Rev (1-way valve between intake elbow & valve cover breather) Vibratechnics engine mounts -the other way to reduced NVH is to rebuild your Driveshaft & Axleshaft -also, my engine & trans are lowered, so drivetrain is that much more leveled w/ differential, but I cannot prove that it helped w/ NVH (even though Driveshaft is positioned w/ lesser sloped)

@@DIYGuysvideo I believe Fluidampr is slightly cheaper and the guys from Urge were pretty involved in S2ki forums. People were mentioning noticeable changes when installed. Would love a review from you if you can get your hands on one

The Manzo collars are around half the price and easily available stateside.

@@DIYGuysvideo Do you feel a difference in handling with them ?

Haven’t driven the car yet and doing coilovers at the same time so probably won’t be able to isolate the difference.

@@DIYGuysvideo what coilovers did you end up going with?

Shaftworks. Plan to make a video about it if I have the time :)

Hmm. Maybe. I need a drive shaft that requires regreasing

The steering coupler can remain untouched depending on how much the subframe is lowered. I didn’t want to leave it up to chance if other people follow this video. Also, the directions for the spoon rigid collars suggest to disconnect it. I’m not aware of any bolts anywhere in the s2000 that have thread locker from the factory (and I have disassembled many S2000s to the bare frame).

I had to disconnect mine to get the subframe low enough for the spacers to slide in.

I lowered all the bolts while supporting the subframe with a jack. Then lowered the jack, which lowered the entire subframe evenly in one shot. Same way you’d lower the subframe when replacing the clutch.

As long as the subframe is supported and doesn’t move much I don’t see the value in doing that imo. I’ve basically borrowed the steps from the shop manual for lowering the subframe during a clutch job. Have you encountered issues in the past?

@@DIYGuysvideo On a northwest car yes, had to thread in a helicoil for the passenger side rear bolt. You need a 12mm x 1.25 helicoil for those 14 x 1.5 for the fronts. Mostly my fault, and I agree , the key is to not let the subframe move around too much. Either down or up, because un-even stress on those bolts increases the chance of ruining the threads. Turns a 2hr job into a 3 day job waiting for the helicoil kit, and it's a $130 kit to boot.

Drop middle bolts out completely. Lower four corners 30mm and subframe hangs on them.

For each subframe, its 3 bolts per side. They basically form a rectangle. One bolt in each corner, and a middle bolt along the long side of rectangle. Like this: . . . . . . As said, first remove the middle bolts. Next lower the corner bolts ∼30mm. Then repeat for rear subframe.

Thanks for clarifying Russell. The rear subframe is a bit of a different story though. More on that next video.

They serve the same purpose. JDM tax not worth it.