Sealing Our Leaking Heads With Epoxy- Ford V10 4V Build Ep. 12 

I think they finally realized that pushrod v8 is still the way to go for a truck engine. I love how smooth the modular motors are, but they never felt like a real HD truck engine, the v10 is a turd in anything bigger than a f250.

Yes hopefully Richard Holdner or HPMonster can spotlight all your hard work

Thanks for the suggestion, we might have to do that!

People actually use epoxy like this all the time, I personally would rather not, but it is tried and tested

I tried welding my own intercooler. Tiny little pin hole, I couldn't seem to seal it. Throw some epoxy on it, apply some paint, and only I know it was done. Don't let perfect be the enemy of good enough.

I used JB to fix a giant hole in the cyl head of my Raptor 660 quad (improperly installed a hotcam and decomp pin broke into cooling passage) and put at least another 600 hours on it and it never failed. One side of the JB had pressurized coolant and the other side had hot oil dripping on it from the cam and it held up fine.

I second the part about people crapping on epoxy when they either don’t have a vehicle or their vehicle is a POS that doesn’t run 😂

You haven’t lived until you’ve hacksawed a bell housing to get a car back together. This project might as well be the space program compared to the nonsense I’ve seen.

There are a couple of channels doing LS headed 300 I6's on RU-vid that I'm as interested in, but this one is definitely right up there with it. Cannot wait to hear this thing scream.

@Robert Nugent pretty interesting too. Just nice to finally see some 6.8 v10 content

Thank you for the feedback!

I agree! Currently the channel I’m checking on daily for updates 😁.

Thanks for the great tip, we'll have to try that!

Instead of red loctite, use the green loctite bearing retainer. It's thinner and tends to seal better than the red stuff.

Too heavy

We thought about it but didn’t like how the alternator looked flipped.

Thanks! We actually also welded that bracket to the timing cover so it is fully supported

All we wanted was to seal water in so epoxy was the most efficient way to do it and the most accessible. We’ll probably try another method of welding the heads together if we have to do this again

Us too!

Great content and great iniativecon the leak sealing. If in the unlikely event it does not work out, there is a process for dealing with porosity in castings called impregnation.its good enough for 24 inch high pressure oxygen ball values for a blast furnace. Hope you don't need it though. Keep up the great content

The cams are actually 8620. It's a common metal used for billet cams.

LFA is the benchmark!!!

That's an interesting idea!

That's the plan! But that wont happen until we get this thing mounted in the car. For start up, we think the 2V manifolds should work.

BIY you should do two sets of cams, one NA and one boost set. 😂

We want to fire this thing up on the stand with just some down and dirty exhaust. When we get it into the car, the plan is to make a set of 1 7/8" or 2" primary headers with 5 to 1 merge collectors. We want it to sound as good as we can!

Thanks! We actually have Todd Warren spec'ing the cams, and we got quite a bit more duration than that going in. 260/263

That would cause the rib side of the belt to run on the water pump, if I understand correctly? That means the water pump would spin the opposite direction. That might make the pump not work like it's supposed to.

@@biy_buildityourself i think with the belt routing just taking the one to the left of the pulley you just added, and the one on the upper right of the water pump, it looks like they are just pushing the belt down or in the way more than providing tension at this point, by removing them i think youll gain some clearance and reduce drag, with out affecting the direction of rotation.

Those are good tips, thanks!

Threaded core plugs are slick. We didn't reverse mount the alternator mostly for aesthetics. Just preferred mounting it on the side.

What is a dial pen and what oil journal?

We saw it at the bottom of the last page of the catalog and figured it must be the best. 720/720 deg .550"/.550" 0-0000 RPM. 😂 Not sure which part you are talking about for the coolant, have a timestamp? The upper one is a smooth pulley for the back of the belt and the lower one is ribbed before going to the water pump. We think the 2V manifold will work. We just want to use it to start it up on the stand. When we mount this thing in the car the plan is to build some serious 1 7/8" or 2" headers with 5 to 1 collectors!

@@biy_buildityourself I'm driving down the interstate right now so I can't really give you a good time stamp but it's right around 2311 or so. Once I get home I can give you a more accurate one. And I'm definitely not saying as a matter of fact that there's coolant there, that was more or less asking. I don't want you to think that I'm trying to discourage anything about this project because I love it. I've seen many people start a legitimate V10 project and guess how many I've seen finish it. I used to be pretty into the modular world when it was barely new and One thing I wanted to ask you guys about was I believe you said in an earlier video that these things came with a forged crankshaft? I've always been under the assumption that they all had some type of crankshaft that was not one piece and had some very serious strength issues at RPM, but that doesn't look to be the case here. Of course I'm going off of things that I think I remember from 15 years ago because I never had a V10 so anything I learned about it I just learned accidentally. Another thought. On exhaust manifolds or headers.. I would imagine that a 96 to '04 Cobra manifold would be made from some type of steel alloy similar to how a LS manifold is cast. If that's the case, then you could easily cut apart a couple of Cobra manifolds and weld your extra cylinder onto each side because most of these later model manifolds weld very well unlike earlier iron ones. And please also understand that I'm just giving suggestions, you guys are doing a fantastic job and have impressed me. I've been doing this for a long time and you guys are just simply better than I am at it!

@@biy_buildityourself Oh yeah guys, I need to correct your cam specs.. I think it's more like .999/.999 360*/360* @0* It's going to be really tough finding the intake center line on that guy! Forgive me for being lame.. On a little more serious note, are you guys going to attempt to decree the camshafts? It sure be a shame not to because there's so much power in doing that on those engines. But boy it is a job!! All you need is some adjustable crankshaft gears and that'll get you plenty close enough because you can move them two degrees at a time. I know on a stock cammed dohc 4.6 with 03/04 heads (01 cobra intake cams), It made up huge difference. I don't really have a perfect scenario as far as before and after but agreed the camshafts and put a 2000 Cobra. R. Canton oil pan with a crank scraper and that's the only thing I did to the engine and it picked up almost 40 horsepower. Now I have been told that those oil pans and the crank scraper pick up more horsepower than you would think. But the only thing I know for sure is that the degree and the oil pan set up together made a good bit of horsepower. Which one was responsible for it? I can't say for 100% but I'm guessing it's the camshafts being pointed in the correct direction..

I see the coolant you are mentioning. That is just residual assembly oil from installing the valves. The cranks on the V10 I believe are all forged cranks. The worry bead with them is the split connecting rod pins. We will definitely be degreeing the cams. Depending on how good we set up the cam prints, it could be minimal or it could be A LOT of work. We'll have to see when we start the process!

We worked with a machine shop overseas. Had to create our own drawings since 4v v10 cams don’t exist.

It is wide! We did throw around the idea of reverse mounting the alt, but decided not to because we prefer the look of it mounted normally.

It would have helped for sure, but we had already worked on the thermostat housing so we just decided to work around it

​@@biy_buildityourselfespecially considering the remote filter setup is a factory option lol, but I'm pretty sure the adapter still takes about the same amount of space

Thank you! Project Farm actually sliced a hole in a head and plugged it with jb weld and ran the engine. Not exactly the same thing we've got going on, but an interesting thing to see nonetheless.

Interesting. We haven't heard of that so we will look into it!

Each half of the head cooled independently, through the water jackets in the block, there’s just no flow between the two halves but each cylinder is still getting cooled