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Okay and have you tried riding it? I find that the inside of such a "shim" doesn't grip the seatpost... Maybe the vertical gap in the frame isn't wide enough in my case. What a headache all this
good idea, but won't always work; my octalink had a 10mm hex and the key wouldn't fit thru the crank puller. however I found I could drop a 16mm wide round cap bolt into the crank and tighten the standard puller down on it, which I could then use normally to push on the crank.
Are these the same tyres the KQI3 Max has? They are supposed to be self sealing but I think that is more of a gimmick. I ordered some Slime to be safe anyway.
Why i left Christianity ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I_btCVYm1IA.htmlsi=QGcon4vNi3omCTUV And ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SdyyNimjYCs.htmlsi=vFbcuRhXeHww9yEf
the overlap is way too thin.. It's better to overlap 50% per turn. The sticky part will stick to the previous roll, not on the overlap, and the tape will stay in place way better in the long run.
Not all bottom bracket bolts are M7, I ordered M7 x 40mm to do what you said only to discover that the bolts on my Carrera Karkinos are M8, so I got M8 x 40mm, bottom bracket still wouldn't budge, then we clamped the adjustable spanner to a scaffolding pole with a flattened end, still wouldn't move, heated the bottom bracket up and tried again, this time two of us were pushing down on the scaffolding pry bar extension when the pressure became too much and the jaws of my heavy duty stanley adjustable snapped. I don't believe that your video is very truthful, that bottom bracket that you showed, the one that was allegedly rusted on, was definitely removed and then replaced for the making of your video, because there's not a chance in hell that a bottom bracket that was rusted on, released as easily as you portrayed in this video, no chance!
And before anyone says anything, Yes, we were trying to remove it in the right direction, Clockwise drive side & counter clockwise on the non-drive side., it still snapped the adjustable's jaws
Seems to me that it's less of a hassle to shorten the hose on the lever side. Just a new barb and olive (and optionally a barb fitting tool). No removal of caliper/lever from the frame is required that way. Also, the pliers used 1:55 are entirely unsuitable for shortening brake lines. 2:52 lube the o-rings with some mineral oil.
oh wow i was expecting it to shift much worse on the faster gears because the jockey wheel is pretty far away from the smaller cogs but i guess it doesn't matter as much for smaller cogs.
I recently got ahold of a 1993 Kona Cinder Cone frame as with yours it seems the previous owner attempted to remove it as it is probaby about 3\4 of the way out but jammed in tight, iam going to try this method wish me luck.
