Man if your decent at wrenching a little you can really make those 590s come alive!!! 3 simple things-- jb weld carburetor mod, put the 620 coil on it and do a muffler mod. All fairly easy to do and will probably give you a 30% power boost
Great video! I'm converting my pickup to a flatbed dump later this summer. I'm converting a 1994 Ford F250 Extended Cab 4x4. I like everything you did. Thanks for taking the time to make this!
Picked up a clean used 590 today. started 1st pull runs & strong. oiler issue, tear down reveled worn gear shroud melted into oiler and worn sprocket teeth. My guess it was run w/o chain oil as it came w/new bar and chain. $60.00 in parts ordered, should be up and running next week. $220.00 all in including new parts, very pleased after watching your review.
Good get. If the oiler screw is the only problem that's a fantastic buy. I'm super cheap and feel like even at full price the CS590 is a good deal, so getting into one for under $300 is a steal.
Your voice sounds alot like hugh laurie's from House. Those cs590s have a loyal following on youtube. I've the stihl counterpart which is the ms310. It's about 15 years old and I'm waiting on a carburetor rebuild kit and new fuel to come in. Hopefully I can get a few more miles out of it until I need a new saw.
I'm quite happy with it. From what I've heard Stihls are fantastic saws, though. The only thing not to like is the price tag. Keep yours running as long as you can.
At 97 pulls why didn’t you hold the throttle…love my echo products. Never an issue with any of them. All of them are one pull with choke, it pops, and second pull it fires. All of them are cold blooded till they warm though and die exactly like it was in the video. They all take atleast 5 tanks to start breaking in
Sounds like you've got a better behaving saw than mine. I consistently do 3-4 pulls on choke for a pop, then 2-3 more to fire off. I'm happy enough with those results, especially since it's so reliable regardless of how long it's been sitting or how cold it is, but not near as good as two pulls from cold like you're getting. That's impressive!
Yeah, the Odie's Oil was super easy to work with and I think it came out great. And this little box only used a tiny fraction of the jar, so I'll absolutely be using it again.
What you did is a real piece of art. So beautiful. REMARK: Your fingers were much much too close to your blade--please think about that so you can keep making much more beatiful things for us to watch.
@@UncleMikesCustomThings maybe make a box jig that rides your fence and has toggle clamps on the tail and side applying downward pressure. Personally, I try to avoid the table saw for any small cuts because it scares the crap out of me. I made a flattening table jig for my router recently. You can make one that clamps to the top of your table saw to save space. My router was $20, the wood was scrap from work, and the bit was maybe $30-40.
Good tips, and props to you for actually engaging in a constructive discourse about woodworking safety. The vast majority of such comments on RU-vid are people who seem far more invested in complaining and high-roading than actually sharing knowledge, which is frankly tiresome. You're one of the good ones.
Considering these are also rebranded as Mccullochs and how notoriously hard these things are to start, a part of me wants them to re introduce a factory electric start option like Mcculloch had in the mid 60s, i know its not the same company anymore but i can dream lol.
Great video really great editing, question if you don't mind me asking where do you get your b roll music I've heard that song befor and id love to use it
I just started my new 590 for the first time today. It only took 5 pulls with the choke lever out then three more pulls with the choke lever in. Just one question. Did you accidentally leave the stop switch in the stop position?
Nope, the switch was set to run the whole time. I'm pretty sure I was just being way too timid with the choke. I'd heard these saws were really easy to flood. Now that I've had the saw for a while I've got a good feel for how it behaves and when it wants choke and when not, but of course I had none of that experience when I started it for the very first time.
I came across this because I'm planning on a sliding bookcase on a smaller scale so I won't be motorizing it, but I just wanted to say what a fantastic build this was. I thoroughly enjoyed seeing how you put it all together.
Glad you liked it. It's really a shame I made this before I started RU-vid so all I have are stills of the build, because it was a really fun and unique project. Great to hear you're tackling something similar.
Thanks! Yeah, a few extra drive wheels sure would be nice, but for the price I'm not complaining. The only time I ever get it stuck is around my own property, and I've got an excavator to pull it out.
I wish I had the patience that you seem to have. You are definitely NOT a quitter. When the saw seized after the first rebuild, I probably would have smacked it against the nearest tree and went home with a grin, like I showed it. lol I'm impressed by your determination. Good job!
I have a Stihl MS361 and I agree with you about the cover design. It's a real pain to get to the spark plug. I've ripped up 2 spark plug boots already.
I bought a spark plug boot puller and it works great. A little silly to buy a specialty tool to work around this design, though, especially since it's the only thing you can't do with a scrench.
Bought my stihl 361 exactly 18 years ago today. It has never let me down, not once. Now after 18 years Im starting to look into having the saw O/H'd with New carb membranes, oil/gas filters etc. It hasnt seen extreme heavy use - but "stihl" after 18 years, thats impressive.
Thanks for sharing your experience! I've heard from several people that a genuine Stihl MS361 is an absolute rock-solid workhorse. Unfortunately for these Farmertec knock-offs, sometimes you really do get what you pay for.
Nice video. I have had a CS-590 for several years and like it very much. My only complaint is that the rear handle loop is NOT large enough to get my foot in there to secure the saw during starting.
Glad to hear from another happy Timberwolf operator. Maybe it's just the big steel-tips I wear, but I've never operated a chainsaw that could fit my foot in the handle. That's part of why I usually drop-start (which, to be clear, is not recommended, but it works for me).
Just the other day mine fired right up after few pulls. Had the decompression valve pushed in and choke out about 5 pulls it fired, then pushed the choke back in the saw fired up within 2 more pulls. That’s when the saws been sitting for long time after the initial start it’s goes easier rest of the time.
Now that mine's broken in, my experience is similar. Thanks for posting your experience; it's good to have confirmation that this is what it's supposed to be like.
Two fun things about these saws the first start is always a B####. Second thing is after your 2nd full tank of fuel in a day your rpms and power goes up
Save yourself time and a headache by using a ratcheting adapter for a break over bar and a drill adapter for sockets. You can use it on multiple engine set ups because it is reversible.
I've seen people having good success with ratchet adapters. I figured the starter drive would be a little more stout, though, and I was getting pretty tired of breaking stuff.
Great video! You've earned a loyal subscriber! I also have the CS-590. Mine starts easily unless it's really cold outside. I'm going to be doing a review video on my channel of it very soon.
Mine starts very easy. Don’t use the decomp and push the choke in after 3 pulls regardless if you hear the pop or not. If flooded have to pull with throttle wide open. Never have had any problems with mine, solid saws especially for the price.
Yeah, other than that first start, mine's been great. And even that was user-error. Knowing what I know now I'm sure I wouldn't have had that much trouble.
Just bought one new for $389.99 (regularly $449.99)from a dealer who set it up and started it before I left the store. I've started it cold 4-5 pulls and 1-2 hot. I don't use the decompression button. I always had Stihl but they are much more expensive and when I asked the dealer about starting problems, he said they have had more problems with the newer Stihls.
What?? $600?? That’s crazy. I found a brand new one on FB market place and stole it for $280. Took a gamble considering it was on a return pallet but it was indeed brand new in box, and runs like a scalded dog!
That's a great deal! Nothing like that available around here, at least not when I was looking. Given that both my other chainsaws were bargains that were currently giving me fits, though, I was willing to take the plunge on a brand-new, fully warrantied saw for once, and I'm still glad I did.
It appeared many of those starting pills were repeats. Good editing Uncle Mike. But why portray what it pretty universally known as about the easiest starting brand as something other? The only thing I trust about this guy is his OBS.
Just under the hinges. I didn't want to do any structural welding between the axles, and didn't really see the need because the load path is pretty favorable.
I like the video and found a used complete flat bed I can put on my 2011 Silverado 3500HD. I think If I can load 3 yards of dirt that will be awesome, I believe the Gross weight posted was 13,000. I made a flat bed with skirts and well might try to get some money out of it now.
I bought a 590 in December. After some experimentation I found it will consistantly fire with following method. Stone cold. Choke button pulled out, decompression activated, pull it once. It dosen't evan cough, perfect. Push choke button in, pull it once more and it is running, EVERY time. After 20 seconds or more warm up, do nothing but pull the cord once and it is running, EVERY time. Outstanding working saw!
Very interesting...really appreciated the filming and commentary. Thoroughly convinced me I probably shouldn't tackle this job. Lol. Is that a Hobart 140?
Haha, yeah, this probably isn't the best upgrade if you're not up for a big project. But it sure is nice now that it's done. Yeah, that's my trusty Hobart 140. Great welder. Almost 20 years old and still kicking. This project pushed it pretty far, but I've found if you're good about bevels and pre-heat, you can get good strong welds even on pretty thick steel.
