Even when I had a swing of a degree or 2 it’s never been an issue. Browning for a week then back. HOWEVER, I have some mystery contaminate in my water currently it is causing major stress. I started doing daily 20% water changes and didn’t notice my alk going up. One day if I had gone to 10.5 from 8. Now everything has died after months of continued stress from water contaminants
Couldn't agree more ... visible pumps and cords, tubes etc., should not be allowed. I have seen very nice tanks with electrical cords running outside behind the back glass and facing a room wall ... just cover the back please!! lol
I have very little equipment. What the hobby has determined as pests generally don't bother me. 90% of the equipment sold is not needed imho. Better to focus on the various ways of increasing water volume. Enjoyed the video. My favorite phrase you mentioned 'root causes'. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome podcast Keith, we may have lost Jake (God rest his soul) but we still have the likes of you and Chris and a few others helping out the masses with your experience and knowledge. Thank you sir.
Sounds like a great guest but I couldn’t get past the first 15 minutes with the audio making it impossible for me to understand him. Hope you have him on again!
Very interesting stream! For those who wonder why Miracle Mud could be a great alternative for those who are interested in the addition of minerals and trace elements, here is a quote from the Ecosystem web site: "Miracle Mud® is a product of EcoSystem Aquarium®. Miracle Mud is comprised of up to 80% oceanic mud, harvested from deep waters, and is then dried on land. The remaining 20% is a formulation of minerals and trace elements that make Miracle Mud a true “MIRACLE.” The mineral and trace element composition is as follows: Aluminum, antimony, barium, beryllium, bismuth, boron, bromine, cadmium, calcium, cerium, cesium, chromium, chloride, cobalt, dysprosium, erbium, europium, fluorine, gadolinium, gallium, germanium, gold, hafnium, holmium, indium, iodine, iridium, iron, lanthanum, lithium, lutetium, magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, neodymium, nickel, niobium, osmium, palladium, phosphorus, platinum, potassium, praseodymium, rhodium, rubidium, ruthenium, rhenium, samarium, selenium, silicon, silver, sodium, strontium, sulfur, tantalum, tellurium, terbium, thallium, thorium, thulium, tin, titanium, tungsten, vanadium, ytterbium, yttrium, zinc, zirconium. Benefits Miracle Mud continuously replenishes the mineral and trace element concentration in the aquarium water, creating the ideal environment for fish and plants. Miracle Mud ensures an environment so healthy that it dramatically reverses the effects of head and lateral line erosion (HLLE).“Shown here is a tropical marine angel fish” Miracle Mud creates an environment so healthy that even a novice aquarist can have his or her own aquarium showpiece, such as the aquariums pictured below!" I am in favor of the slow release of minerals and elements using something like this natural system instead of dosing so many different solutions of many different trace elements using any aquarium ICP test as a blind guide, which was already explained by many chemists to be not so reliable as many would wish for. Precipitation and reactions of so many different chemicals in our systems should be avoided at all costs! Bacteria dosing is a JOKE! For God sake, people! LOL! People keep asking and wishing this hobby would be "less complicated". People keep saying they had a much better time back in the day when they had their tanks under metal halides and much more simpler systems and their corals were way better. They had way better tanks!!! The systems were WAY more beautiful and a fair representation of the natural reef! But the same people that complain about their troubles today, keep rejecting the simplicity and digging for the troubles the current market is offering. IT'S COMPLICATED BECAUSE THE AQUARISTS ARE MAKING IT COMPLICATED following every new marketing strategy. The people are looking for the difficulties and rejecting the simplicity! Period! That said, I am not sponsored nor ever used Miracle Mud. But I would think that would be a much better way to pursue the implementation of minerals and trace elements then what people are trying to do today with those expensive bottles. Way less work too!!!! Anyways... Just stop making it complicated. LOL! Or stop complaining and enjoy what you are doing (making it complicated). LOL! Now we know Dr. Sanjay's secret. LOL!
I don't think bare bottom is necessary in an effort to keep your nutrients low. Just don't put a thick sandbed down, a half inch or so is fine. The most important thing to control nutrients is to have a healthy beneficial bacteria population that you replenish routinely. As the tank matures year after year, doing this will put your system in a status that you won't have to worry about nitrates/Po4.
According to fauna Marin.... 50-150 ratio for phosphate to nitrate ratio is the green zone. Up to 200 is the yellow zone. Over that... It seems cyano could he an issue. Very interesting
As a reefer we experiment with different products to see what works for us and I think what you are doing is great. You are fine tuning your systems to what works for you. Nice video Keith.
I have a question about ICP testing and maybe I am ill informed but how can a test help you when it normally takes a week or two to get results. I feel like by the time you get it back your levels are even different from the water you sent in. Unless they take that into account. I don’t know 🤷🏽♂️
A reef tank is always changing in terms of its day to day dynamics so the lag time between testing and getting results is certainly a drawback with ICP testing. But I use the ICP tests to help adjust the trace elements I dose to my tanks and it works pretty well.
Need to try a ReeFi light Keith. They're capable of fuller spectrum lighting with their amber and lime channels that very few other lights on the market have.
@@taylorhaberle3996 only looks like that in photos, it looks great in person. They have about 3x the number of 395-430nm LEDs vs. radions and it messes up photos for people that don't know how to white balance correctly.
At this point no. I use wider mesh nylon filter socks to catch large debris and small critters to keep that stuff out of the sump. For my setups I don't need more robust mechanical filtration. My skimmers are doing their thing in terms of nutrient removal.
I didn't build any of my stands but here is a blog post with a video of the one built for my peninsula tank: www.reefbum.com/peninsula-tank-build/peninsula-tank-build-the-custom-stand/
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I noticed manganese was not on your dosing list. I’ve been having good growth dosing it. 1/2ml per day in my 100 gallon as recommended by my icp tests.
If you have never done a bare bottom tank, you would be amazed how much gritty sandy like detritus builds up. I could only imagine how much of a 5 year old sand bed is actually dead bacteria and precipitation etc.
That's where the sand bed cuc comes in to play . Keeping that sand bed turned over is important. I've done BB and honestly would never do it again . Looks terrible and my nitrates went up week after week . Now I'm back to sand with much more stable parameters .
I have no other experience to relate to with using both caribe sea and dry rock. I have 3 tanks now and its all I have ever used but makes me wonder if corals would grow faster and what the difference might be using live rock. When you speak of live rock do you mean from the ocean? Who can afford a whole tank of live rock or dp u mean adding just a small amount! I have never had algae really in my tanks since they have matured except for this hedge type stuff and for the life of me I cant figure out what the hell it is and no one seems to know either! Its flowery and grows like a short dense matt on the rock! I have crazy bubble algae in one tank and cant get rid of it so I am going to try an emerlad crab or two but scared it will eat my zoas! ! I took it all out and scrubbed it down and now its even worse!
I agree with this list, however, I have always started tanks with just dry rock. Takes about 5 weeks for it to cycle after dropping food in to rot. I had Coraline algae, sponges, etc. Dry rock is best....won't bring in any bad stuff. My experience.
I just stumbled across your channel, holy crap that was cool. My mother got me your book for Christmas this past year along with some other reef books, Julian Sprung's among them. Amazing to see your experiences. I haven't started a reef tank yet sadly, still an unpaid Master's student in Marine Conservation, but it's a future goal.
