HI , i am doing some diy loudspeaker contraptions.from esl, rubanoides, planar magnetic speakers and or headphones to amt and alike :) i enjoy building on the cheap, so i hope you do to :)
Well, I don’t think it’s a matter of taste, but of right or wrong. There are also people who like the sound of bose or other omnidirectional speakers. And yes 🙌 t could be impressive, but it is still wrong. When the lips of a singer gets 5 meter wide, then its impressive and you never heard anything like this, for sure because it’s just as wrong as it could be 😊
not really, a normal speaker (studio monitor) has a small as possible tweeter for the same reason , better dispersion . thats all there is to it. in my room with to much reflections i usually think its to... well all over the place :)
I'm new to this, but I'm also curious. What would happen if you combine dual membrane planar with your corrugated wavy midrange design? Maby ultimate planar midrange driver, or it's just nonsense?
Mostly really hard to do , since all of the different thing you mention are harder then normal. Combining them really is no fun. I tried a curved weave design this week , but the traces are to small to cut in weave pattern. :(
And I'll still be watching, occasionally adding nerdy advice or ideas. I've even got my own giant stack of mylar, waiting for me to start doing my own planar experiments. 😆
Hi Joppe, How até You ? Não tenho sua experiência e nem conhecimento sobre projetos de planares e Ribbons e outros que o amigo tem, porém não seria mais sensato usar um diafragma com 120 graus de dispersão, creio que já seria altamente bom em se comparando com outras possibilidades, tô muito errado amigo ? Aqui do Brasil, somente imaginando tudo ok ! Good work and my besta regards !
Hi Doing fine thank you ! well i am not sure about what works best . i myself think less then 180 as well, maybe 160-170 reason is because then it would not have parts of the tweeter playing against each other. (if there is a part of the tweeter directly behind it, it might play against each other one being out of phase ) besides that... i think it might be whatever people like :) but i tend to go for less then 180 :) i might need to see where there is no or as little as possible tweeter part on the other side .
Infinitys last version of the Emit and Emim used the neodymium magnets with decent results. With time the coating peels off exposing the Neo to air, and the Neo turns to dust, in my opnion Samarium Cobalt is an excellent compromise. Neodymiumn is not worth the trouble, and in my opinion, when it fails, its extrememly frustrating!
Good point !, it really depends on the neo's in question then again , its hard to test if you got the good ones. if it takes 10 years. i do order from a few companies that so far worked flawless, while some Chinese aliexpress crap could fail within 2 years, and does not even are the stated strenght, so no more aliexpress poo for me :)
Nice ! Just a thought: The magnet forces may (?) make the grid form a tiny "pregnant belly" at the middle area. If so, what about stiffen the grid by crossbars ?
The belly is beneficial in this case. since where it becomes a belly is also where the mylar has the biggest excursion. by doing this you can decrease distance mylar to magnet, and still have the same xmax where it matters (in the middle)
mylar can be bought in RC plane stores online or on ebay, kapton can be bought on ebay aliexpress but usually is not thin enough. the laminated foils i bought from UKI.co.uk , and other alumnium foils comes from www.aluminiumfolie.nl/ and or normal food stores
Yeah, TPU is tricky. It absorbs moisture so it needs some drying before printing. Also you need some really slow speeds (although the generic TPU preset is a bit conservative). I also recommend playing around with retraction and enabling "avoid crossing walls" to avoid travel moves that could cause visible stringing.
I have Focusrite Solo 3gen and it has never worked properly. Tried one last time and it makes REW crashe/freeze. I got advise to update the drivers and then neither the Focusrite app nor the PC could detect the Solo. Has to restore the PC to get rit of the problem .but Solo still will not work with REW. What a terrible bad product Focusrite is
Bambu Lab A1 is really a good choice to start with 3D printing! I'm using Creality K1, it is also good overall but in some parts they are using cheaper components than Bambu Lab which cause issues in the long term and it is time consuming to solve. / The difference in first layers usually because of printing speed:temperature ratio, while printing slower we should decrease the print temperature to achieve same result, and when we print faster we should increase the temp to achieve same flow rate. Also to reduce scratches on the top surface it is useful to increase the value of "Z hop when retracting". Have fun with it and we're excited to see what you'll do with 3D printing!
thank you , yeah i just sliced a motor cover in cuda for my ender and for the bambu... 5 hour 49 on the ender and 2 hour 13 on the bambu... at normal speed. at the fastest speed more like 1 hour 30 :) while still looking rather nice. if i put them on at night i would go for the slower speed. though
I'm excited to see what you do with this. I don't necessarily like the business practices behind Bambu lab, but damn I can't deny that they made printing way more accessible. Machines that just work well. If they existed when I built my voron I probably would have gotten one of those instead.
Cool! Now you can print a bigger printer to print yet more bigger one ) I personally from time to time need a printer to be available but my head has no capacity for a 3d modeling unfortunately.
I have the same , I still use my CNC router mostly. I am also an insane newbie in fusion so it will take some time before something I created and usefull cones along haha
@@joppepeelen Sounds like a good example for me. I have to learn it. Because all I have now is a subtractive technology with an iron instead of an addictive one with a 3d printer )) And don't forget you can use 3d models as a molding template..
hmm good to know. i might try that if it need it to be nice. i just printed the exact same thing as the ender did. but there is a small piece that is more glosy then the rest. i think it also has to to with temperature. besides that. its really really smooth. do hope to fix that if i need something looking good. next up will be the speed above sporty... stupid name.. and try 166% speed
washing machines are pretty heavy :) as long as its not running. (dont plan on using them togther at the same time for now., i might add a shelf above it) hehe. i did watch its calibration and i think the machine can benefit from bolting down on a heavy plate as wel as some support for the Z axis. the X and Y move so fast it could make my whole working bench i normally use move with easy. not ideal
haha yep they are on the small side. i put the project on hold for a while :( since i am not sure if i can fit it in my shed......(hardly any room to build it up and move around it) My hands , well its multiple reasons white balance of the camera and i in fact do have really red or white hands depending on temperature, i forgot the name of this. (has to do with blood circulation in the hands) people might experience this with extreme cold i already have it at normal temperatures. they can be white ,red with orange or purple spots :) normally they are just slightly more red then most. they do not feel different then normal except when its really cold /freezing
must have been one heck of a party because those Visatons can go really loud. Never managed to blow mine up - astonishingly - and they are still going strong after nearly 30 years! Anyone use the newer VS-MHT12 ? Thoughts?
have you ever placed two panels facing together, like isobaric? you could vary the space in between, try loading w damping materials or even sandwich a fabric if the are directly touching. just curious..
Rather than a job, sell some panels for $2,000 USD each. If the foil doesn't work out, you may have to sell some sandwiches wrapped in foil. Another great video! It's much easier to watch you than run to the store to buy the part I needed today.
yeah.. acpected that.. can you make a screenshot of the Dats measurements of your contraption? or tell the qts and fs of the measurement? i could 'guess' where you 'need' changes to make it a viable woofer.
push pull had a QTS of 2.8 and an FS of 44hz, single ended 6mm xmax single ended had a qts of 3.8 and an fs of 44hz, the 3mm xmax single ended has a qts of 3.3 and a fs of 49. its not a regular driver so they cant exactly be compared.
@@joppepeelen it cant compare but it still can :) by the Qts it must play to the fs with no loss of output, so i believe main problem of low bass-output is the narrow baffle.. if you ask me then the qts is pretty shabby, and need atleast a qts of 1 then the thd will be lower, but mainly a bigger baffle is needed to seen by the driver. ever thought of making sidewings on this panel? or a H shape of some kind? so; more magnetpower, more copper in the coil/magnetgaps (this lowers the Q more to 1), and acousticly less forwards/backwards wave cancelation, (thus low extension) by more panelwidth/wood/sidewings/H-shape etc or boost everyting down low and play low volume, there is no other way i guess
I would be interested to see how two or more panels work together. Take all the best of a single panel design and increase the surface area over multiple panels
Excuse my inexperience with these, but what would happen if you put it in a sealed box? Will it help over excursion down low? How would the bass response change?
Thank you for the awesome and unique content Joppe! I suppose you already have mids/tweeters figured out? I am wondering if you tried to build something similar to Jazzman ESLs?
thanks m8, well something like jazzman , you mean an ESL ? i was talking to the owner of a dutch ESL company if i could buy 2 of his panels they use in their commercial setups. (i could make them myself, but... well much work) since i made a ESL magneplanar combo once. and its a pretty nice combo :) i could make an esl in the future myself problem is finding affordable transformers :(
@@joppepeelen what are the traffo specs required? I have a contact that can make really nice custom ones and they were pretty inexpensive, so could ask around.
I don't know much about specific transformer specs I'm afraid , but a step ratio of 1:100 or 1:125 would be nice and a freq range 200-20khz. There is much more to it of which i don't know a single thing about I'm afraid haha
The curve is also good to know where you are, but for me often a linear curve means that I don't have bass and treble and the mids are far in front, from here I deduced that it is best to set them according to my ear! I like to follow you because I want to switch to mediums with ribbon, I heard from a friend and the mediums are much more open and clear on ribbon. Anyway what you do is very important to me!
