My name is Will. I make things. Professionally, I'm a photographer. I make images. I grew up building houses with my dad so I learned a few things. Over the last few years I've gotten more into making more tangible things in my free time. First it was out of necessity. "We need a wine rack", "I need a desk", "We need a house"... But lately I've been making things because I enjoy doing it and I could never find what I was looking for. As I would make things for my family, people started asking if I would make things for them. So, I'm here now to share the things I've made with you. I hope you love them.
Every RU-vid vid for this air-compressor Vevor 'reached out' and provided a 'gifted' unit in exchange for 'honest feedback' If anyone can find a source of genuine reviews from verified buyers let me know.
I will say the pressure adjuster brings and I had to replace it with parts from harbor freight but still going strong otherwise. I know you're looking for an unbiased review and I know I have bias but thought the repair was worth noting.
I've been using it for more than a year now and never an issue. How are you currently handling your knives? Mine are all hand wash only so there is quite a bit of care involved so you don't cut yourself
@@wmwalkerco Mine is made out of beech, with routed slots for the knives, rather traditional really. I made it 25 years ago and the blades can only touch wood. Apart from an occasional woodworker, I do cook daily and consider it my #1 hobby. Knives are only washed by hand, and only by me 😀 Knives in a dishwasher would end-up blunt and nicked ;-) Because I am so careful about the blades, I would never put them in a block where blades can touch each other.
I am an avid home chef myself. It seems to work fine in my kitchen and I don't really enjoy sharpening so I try to keep my knives as sharp as possible for as long as possible. Cheers.
I turn with both but I gravitate towards my gouges and round nose scrapers most often. However you enjoy doing it best and the finished products are what matters right?
I have a lathe that I inherited, I suck at using it, I have cheap bad tooling & nothing but centers for making dowels & such. You make me want to re-think my options. I more than likely won't, but.... Nicely done as always!
4-jaw chucks aren't terribly expensive. You just need to figure out what thread your headstock is and buy the appropriate adapter. I haven't price checked them for awhile but face turning (bowls, platters, etc.) Is really meditative and I find myself always being more creative than with spindle turning.
Mr. Walker, Ot is wonderful to see your content. If someone doesn't like some aspect, then they should simply not watch it. I hope you are well, and that we get to see more soon. Thank you!
Great review & practical comparison. You’re very fortunate to have the hardwood prices you mentioned (~50% cheaper than central Maryland; ironically, Cherry is cheaper in my area - talk about local variance). Don’t have a jointer or thickness planer? Try asking if your lumber yard can 14:16 give you 1 flat face & 1 flat edge (S2S) on the rough sawn boards you select. My supplier does this so cheaply, that it wouldn’t make sense for me to buy a planer or jointer any time this decade. Once you have S2S, you can often finish it off with a table saw or track saw, and a bit of extra sanding.
I would say any medium density hardwood. I think diffuse porous would be ideal. Soft Maple, Walnut, Cherry, or Poplar would make fine choices. Oaks tend to be a bit splintery so probably wouldn't make the best choice.
They sell this at Lowe's, Home Depot, tractor Supply, Rural King, most hardware stores... in the US at least. This isn't a specialty material you'd need to find at a welding shop or metal supplier.
what's the point of comparing these two sanders? even in RO mode it makes no sense, the festool spins at like less than half the speed of the mirka, so of course it isn't going to be as quick in random orbit mode. who's using a rotex in random orbit mode? compare it with the ets ec from festool. I cant imagine who this review would be helpful to.
Just came across your channel when searching for hanging cabinets on to a brick wall. I was given kitchen cabinets recently, and yes out of sight, I so need and to organise my work space. I'm a simple DIYER. I love the French cleat idea. And looks impressive and manageable for this old duck lol 😂. I'm yet to set up my saw table, so until then, can I use a jigsaw to create the 45 degree angle? Any advice would be great. New subscriber too 👍
Pressure treated might not be the way to go. That stuff rots fasteners in no time. You have to use stainless, HDG, or specialsauce coated fasteners and I don't think tapcons fit the bill.
What finish did you use on the dresser, and what color was it? I love your videos and the way you explain everything. I have only been building for a couple of years but almost exclusively use dovetails ever since I saw you use them along with your explanation as to why they are better. Thank You for sharing!
I just acquired a 1997 grizzly G 1023 3 hp 220 single phase table saw. I’m in the process of restoring it. More cosmetically because it functions just fine. Does not have a riving knife. So I will have to create something for that. However, I was able to score it for only $300 and after I’m done painting it putting it to use. The motor was replaced in 2009 so that’s a plus. I’m just so excited and figured I would share it.
I find that to be really not good advice. Construction lumber is only dried to about 22% mc. They are Spruce, Pine, or Fir which are very dissimilar density and behavior than kiln dried hardwoods, and I 100% believe it will introduce more frustration and error in your work leading to quitting the craft before you even get started.
@@wmwalkerco that's a major major problem.with all wood no matter where you buy it... I find it to be just as big an issue with hardwoods.... thus is why you need a moisture meter... 90% of hardwood isn't dry when it's sold... but everyone selling it always says it is..... buy twenty 2x6 studs, st8cker them and leave them in your hot garage over the summer and they'll be nice and dry... or use wood from demolition that's already been dried for years.... unless you have a nearly free source of hardwood, you're just tossing money on the toilet using nice wood wjen you are learning how to use the tools.... you'll just have more expensive sawdust and firewood.... lol
We're on different sides of the fence on this one. A 1x4x8 (.75"x3.5"x8') is 1.75bdft. Currently sold at my local Lowe's for $8.87. That's about $5/bdft and it doesn't behave the same way as say Poplar. Also the big box stores are the absolute worst places to buy wood... finding a local source for hardwoods is a bit of an adventure sometimes but you can surely find much better deals than $5/bdft and do the same to the lumber as you suggested in the garage over the summer.
@@wmwalkerco I can certainly see where you're coming from... I'm seeiing in more of a "learn to use the tools first" mentality... and you're more of a "train like you game" mentality... neither is really wrong... just different ways to skin a cat lol That and I have tons of super dry construction lumber laying around from stuff I've demoed and have made some pretty decent furniture out of it hahaha... I also have a bunch of black walnut and white oak I milled and kiln dried and make slab/timber furniture out of... I actually saved it for a long time till I had the right tools to work it correctly and then practiced on junk wood with the tools first... and I was already a carpenter when I started doing both
Beautiful lumber. Im sure the client was thrilled. When I design shaker, one of my first thought I have is can the object be easily clean under in and around. Because there is no dirt in heaven
I made these up on the fly. I think it was a 5⁰ splay. I made scale profile drawings on rolled out craft paper knowing I wanted final seat height at 16" and took measurements from the drawing. I could probably throw together some plans if there were enough interest
