Very well done and instructional video. Every step was completely understandable. I'm thinking it must have been very challenging to maintain left/right symmetry. I am wondering if a mold release would have worked to avoid or reduce the final chiseling out the foam from the fiberglass.
I can understand the cost of shipping large blocks of foam. No matter how light it is, size is the main factor in that, so, I get it. But why the HELL does foam cost so much, itself?? It's ridiculous!
this is super cool! For the last couple of years I've been thinking about buying a Lotus Emira and getting a custom body kit to make it look like The Brawler 308 concept by Ash Thorp...
if you had hired a super car took all panals off plastic flim over eack parts bonnet wings the lot,you got yer moulds quickly put it back together sent car back. thankyou very much job done ...
So, what happens when a body part needs to be replaced? Are you going to pull molds of each panel? The buck no longer exists, so it's a 1-off otherwise.
you should have used a mold release so you can make extra panels for repair. Racing isn't a dainty sport. it would also make clean up a breeze. no carving out foam from panel or sweeping.
EPOXY RESIN!! HOT DAMN! I've found how to put glass over Styrofoam without it turning into mud!! Boyyyyy, my Honda already loves you brother!! Thanks for the video!!! Sub'd!!!!! Forever
I just started your video - and I had to pause for a minute to insert this comment. Thank Heavens I finally found someone on here that thinks a bit like I do! I have been searching for weeks looking for information on something like this! RU-vid is full of expansion foam ideas. With my car being a daily it has to stay operational.... I want to custom my dashboard and this type of foam is the way I want to go... This way (I hope) I'll be able to create custom panels and then attach them over the existing dashboard. Just in case I do something outrageous I won't ruin my dash. Anyway, I gotta get back to your video. My car is in need of some surgery 😂
I think the carbon fibre broke because it is harder.. So harder the material so more brakeble it is. So more it can counteract against pressure forces so more sensitive it gets against tensile forces. It the same reason why you have to combine concrete with steel when you are building bridges or skyscrapers.
Love your work been following the RV build series and feeling inspired to try and make my own fiberglass fenders for my old Jeep XJ, as a fellow South African I find it quite difficalt to find the polystyreen and fiberglass supplies would you mind sharing where you get your supplies from would also love to know where you get your fiber board used in the camper. Anyway thanks alot for this quite insparational seeing your work.
Doesn’t the aluminum tarnish and oxidize without a special coating of something? I’ve got polished aluminum trim on my classic. That was polished. Now 6 months later it’s dull and looks like it’s never been polished. So how to justify taking it all off again and spending a week polishing it? Any advice would be helpful on how your car is gonna stay looking like the polished result you show here
No need to tell you what you already know. Many people here that have commented, in general, have posted question after question on what I would like to have asked, queried, nd interjected on but they've posted excellent questions. However I will say this...., You have another subscriber to your channel. Thank you for this remarkable and highly educational video.
Mathew, I am trying to learn aluminium welding for my project. What settings do you use for this thickness aluminium please? Loving this build. Regards John
If you are learning to weld I would recommend the rule of thumb of 40 amps per millimetre, so for the 1.5mm thickness I'm using it would be 60 amps. Hopefully that will help you out 👍 (works of steel as well)
If you got a 20 litre bucket with maybe 2 litres of thinner you can melt all of that excess foam into the bucket making liquid plastic wich coats and goes hard on things and could utilise in some way. Just a thought... Ive made and repaired stuff with this liquid plastic from melted down styrofoam in thinner. All that styrofoam might only need half a litre its that reactive in breaking down.
@@BroughBuilt , I would rather go for something more iconic than a Zonda.Take a look at the rear engine cradle that Jean Fourie of the V8 Stealth beetle created. He uses BMW E 39 rear suspension parts with a Audi v8 and Audi transverse transaxle(01E)Maybe he will sell the cradle to you guys . I bought one from him that I want to use for a Ford GT40.
@@mikeleonard8031 I'll look into it thanks! I've always had a soft spot for the Zonda. And also happen to have the correct engine for it laying around 😁
There's lots of variables consider like state of finish and will it be for race or road car use. You are welcome to contact me privately on email or social message to discuss
If it wasn't for the cost of the foam I could use a large CNC mill to cut large foam blocks using 3D point scans of real cars or scale models. I guess if the finished fiberglass is still worth enough $$$ then the cost of the foam is not so bad?
nice job, but i not can make, not have art eye not can sculp body right whit hand, maybe if have scanner all 3D and build easy simple CNC can make, need all dimensions then can make, but not hand. im not artist, im engineering and can made all what have all dimension good. if this make alltime at work, have very simple build CNC machine who carving all body perfect same dimension what real car have, but one body not smart make cnc machine expensive, but if need made 10-100 body cnc have cheapen option made fast all body.
Carbon fiber is not necessarily meant to bear more load before breaking compared to regular fiberglass. That's what Kevlar is for. Carbon fiber is meant to be more rigid, which makes it more brittle. However, a more rigid part means you can use less layers and weight to achieve the same shape that will withstand wind loads without deforming.
