2007 Suzuki KingQuad 700 has charging & run ability issues 

Right on. Feel free to hit me up if you run into issues ate have any questions.

John I'm glad I could help you out.

Yes it sure is Tom. Glad to hear it's still running great. If you ever have any issues please give me a call.

Thanks RS1972. I absolutely hate shops & people that just through parts at a unit because they have no idea how to properly diagnose something.

I also hate throwing on random parts, but I have a 350 big bear and it had no spark, everything was in spec, and I had no idea what could be wrong and started changing cdi’s, coils etc. (I have spares) but nothing. Stator was in spec but I changed it anyway and boom! Nice blue spark. Sometimes changing random stuff helps

Well it actually wasn't the stator you were having a problem with. It was the crank sensor that's built into the stator harness that was the issue. The older ones also have a source coil that goes bad too.

Hey Ruth. That is such great news to hear. I'm glad my video was able to help you figure out the problem. Thank you for the positive feed back.

Where did you purchase rectifier at?

Hey C J. I bought the O.E.M. regulator/rectifier from I believe partzilla.com. www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/32800-42F00?ref=f0a80993a71a8f4c08fe5dc1676c794e2177c048

Glad to hear that my video helped solve your problem.

Hey Nick. Glad my video has helped you out. These are the type of comments are my favorite.

Thank you very much. That is my goal when I make these videos. I try to be as informative as possible. That way anyone that watches the videos can diagnose the problems themselves.

Thank you for the support & awesome comment.

Thanks Connie. If you have any questions feel free to comment & I'll try to help you out.

Not a problem. If you ever have any questions about something just hit me up & I'll be happy to answer them to the best of my ability.

​@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I have an 06 kingquad 700 have you ever seen an error code on odometer and trip a b?

No I have not. Is this the error code you get when you jump the Diagnostic connector?

​@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I do get _C00 code, I purchased the atv with the error code it also has the charging issue 😢

Well _C00 means no error codes present but the tps isn't adjusted correctly if the line is at the bottom _C00 you want to adjust it so it looks like this -C00

Tanks Russell. If you have any questions feel free to leave a comment are shot me an email.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 help good person !!

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 i will write you in a few minutes. Thanks so much.

Absolutely no problem. if you ever have any questions about anything Powersports related please feel free to leave a comment and a question and I'll be happy to get back to you.

when you're checking the stator internally between the three plugs you should show some resistance. when you're checking the stator from the plug to ground it should not have any resistance at all. if it did have resistance it would mean the stator was grounded out and it was bad. It's a really good possibility if you have proper AC voltage running through your stator and proper resistance inside your stator and the stator is not grounding out it is most likely your regulator rectifier is going bad.

Hey Kelly. Thanks for checking out the video & the comment. I would say about 99% of the time I order the OEM parts. After being in the industry for about 25 year I have learned that a lot of the after market parts are made really cheap & don't hold up are they don't have the proper voltage output, resistance. Let me know how that reg/rec works for you. I have had good luck with aftermarket parts but mostly bad. If you have any other questions feel free to comment are email me at limitlesspowersports78@gmail.com

Hey Kelly. Sorry I never saw this comment till now. I always use the OEM parts when I work on any Japanese brand. There are some good aftermarket parts out there. Let me know how the Reg/rec turned out for you.

Hey Ruth thanks for checking out my channel. When you checking between all the lead the ohms reading should be around .4 ohms. If you get an open then it is shorted to ground. also if your testing from the lead to the negative battery terminal you should not get a reading. check out a few of my comments below I believe I posted all the specs from the service manual before. I think at leat I did lol

Hey markus. I would definitely check your charging system & have your battery load tested. whenever your fan kicks on are your putting your atv in 4x4 are taking it out off 4x4, you are putting a load on your battery. If the battery doesn't maintain close 12v DC your fuel injection system doesn't operate properly causing the atv to die. I would start there & then check all your connectors take sure they aren't corroded & counting a short to ground.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 allready checked connections, battery is a New one And also there is New suzuki oem rectifier. When engine is running there is 14,40v And engine shut down battery voltage about 12,80v , I have made better ground from battery-engine-atv body. But Still there is something that Makes it shut down.

Yeah your stator is definitely over charging causing your reg/rec to burn up along with the wires. I would replace the stator & reg/rec with a OEM one.

I work on all makes & models of ATVs, UTVs, dirt bikes, and motorcycles. I just haven't had the chance to create content with a Polaris one.

That is a pretty interesting dilemma. I haven't ran across that happening before because it shouldn't happen lol. Are you sure that you didn't run you Atv & drain the battery & then realize that the reg/reg was bad? Also if the weather was cold it can effect the battery a lot. How new was the battery? Was it ever ran before?

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 yes, battery is new. I had it running with a new battery go start it after I ran it and the battery is completely dead. I charged it up, started troubleshooting I realize the voltage regulator must be bad. Alternator is putting out so my new regulator came in went to hook it up, and I still wasn’t getting a charge up at the battery, this is a used 2007 700. I noticed the wiring has some damage like mice or rats were chewing on it. So I measured continuity between the positive from the voltage regulator hardest to the battery’s positive and I had continuity. Then I checked the negative from the voltage regulator wiring harness to the negative on the battery terminal and I have continuity mind you this was disconnected from the battery at this time both of them. Next I measured from the Voltage regulator positive to the negative up at the battery and I had continuity. And I did the same with the positive so my question is, should I be reading anything crossover between the two? In my mind I shouldn’t see any continuity it should be an open. What do you think about that?

Yeah you definitely shouldn't be getting anything from negative to positive like that. Didbyou buy a O.E.M reg/rec? Are did you buy one off of Amazon? I would definitely double check your stator. Did you do the forward & reverse bias test on the reg/rec?

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 Again I appreciate your help / suggestions! UPDATE - I have replace some of the connectors and wires that needed it. I replaced the starter relay as well. Battery will drain down to 2-3 volts overnight. So there is an apparent short to ground some where. I removed the fuel 10amp fuse and charged the battery full and left it over night again. This time very little voltage drain. I put the fuse back into the circuit. I started researching more I noticed the ECM module felt warm compared to any other module or relay. Is this normal? My code that is displayed when I jumped the test plug is C40. I have looked at the TPS plug and wires which all seem solid. I have seen online where some had issues with the wires breaking for the TPS. However I haven't tested the continuity between there and the ECM yet. One additional piece of information. In the beginning I had issue with the ignition key powering on in certain positions. So I replaced it. This still happens sometime first key position will power on or the second. I'm wondering if the ECM is bad especially with it being warm just sitting there. What's your thoughts so far? I'm reviewing the service manual to try and conduct some test on the ecm.

I would definitely check all your ground wires & code C40 is the ISC Idle speed controller. You should only be getting milli amp draws on the battery when you do a parasitic draw test.

My question would be what is the AC voltage output of the stator while it was running? Usually the plugs only melt when they get hot and they're not connected very well. Also they usually melt when the stator is out putting too much AC voltage for the rectifier to handle. And then in turn it ends up destroying the rectifier also.

30v at idle. I think I will have to change the stator thanks for the reply

80v at around 3000 rpm does that sound too high

So when you're testing the stator. between all three yellow wires from one yellow wire to the other yellow wire you should have 0.4 - 1.0 ohms of resistance when testing the yellow wire to ground you should have 0.0 ohms of resistance or infinity. When you're checking AC voltage output between each leg one at a time you should have no more than 75 volts AC at 5,000 RPMs. if all that does not check out then your stator could be overcharging. This is directly from Suzuki factory manual for your quad.

Hey Tim. I'm set on ohms & you don't want any reading at all. It's should show infinite ♾️. If you get a reading on this model then you stator is grounding out to the motor. Just note that it's not the same for ever make & model.

Would this apply to the 2008 750 king quad ?

Yes it's exactly the same. I believe in one of my comments I posted the specs. I forget how ma y comments back it is.

Hey Clayton. Yeah that is definitely a sign of a bad TPS altogether. If you adjusted & it keeps having issues it's just faulty. Just order you up a new one & do the same when you replace it.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 thanks for the quick reply man, I'll order a new OEM one and see if that does the trick!

Hey Cullen thanks for stopping & checking out my channel. Yes sounds like your TPS sensor is bad. I suggest getting an OEM one from the dealer but you can always chance it with one off of Amazon but I'm not a fan of Amazon parts.

Well the c15 is a coolant temp sensor code. Did you check the tps sensor to make sure it is aligned properly? Also check your spark plug, air filter, fuel pressure, vavle clearances. All that plays a roll in how it starts up & runs.

My video should have it pretty detailed. But if you can't get it to stay in the middle it's most likely bad. When you loosen it up it takes a very minor movement to get it to move the - to get it in the middle. If it doesn't want to adjust You should just replace it with a new one.

Standard PSI is 140psi. But with 130psi it should run .

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 it is starting a little hard when cold, it turns a few times before starting, but once it starts, it is running ok. It's a 2007 King Quad 700. It has 11.000 km. I think it needs a valve adjustement.

You probably just need to adjust the valve clearances. They might be a little tight causing a hard starting issue.

Sounds like your crank sensor is going bad. When it gets how it's starting to break down on the inside & causing it to lose spark. But after it cools off it works again. There is a possibility that you're fuel pump is doing the se thing. You can test the crank sensor for ohms & peak voltage if you have the proper tools. Something with the fuel pump. You can hook up a fuel pressure gauge & ride it around & watch the gauge to see if you start to loose fuel pressure before it starts to die.

Yes absolutely. A stator can overcharge your battery causing it to do exactly what you said. You need to check it volts AC while running to see what the output voltage is. But yes that sounds exactly like what your problem is. I have seen it many many times. an overcharging stator can also destroy your voltage regulator. A voltage regulator can only rectify so many volts. Another way you can test to see if your stator is overcharging is to check your volts DC at your battery. using a multimeter turn your multimeter to volts DC and connect it to the positive and negative battery post. start up your four wheeler(this test works on all Powersports units) Rev it up and hold the throttle steady at about 4,000 RPMs if it's charging over 14.7 you're having a stator issue and you need to change it. Do not replace it with a Chinese one. I know they're inexpensive but they do cause problems not all of them do butuse OEM factory parts. And yes they are not very cheap but there's a reason they're not cheap. if you have any more questions or if I need to clarify more please comment and I'll be more than happy to get back to you.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394Thank you for your time, quick and resourceful response! It has been thorn in my side for sometime now and this is the best response I have had! Once again thank you!

absolutely no problem Dustin. this is what I created this channel for is to help educate my fellow technicians and mechanics who want to learn how to work on their own equipment and save a dollar or two doing that. And I'm always here to answer any questions no matter what they are. I work on motorcycles ATVs UTVs scooters lawn equipment you name it. I've also been in the professional road racing series motor America and a super bike racing for many years. so I have a lot of insight on other things also

Hey Humberto. Thanks for checking out the channel. So are you telling me when it gets up to operating temperature it just turns off? Are is your machine actually starting to overheat then shuts off? this is a hard one to diagnose without actually having the machine in front of me. It could be so many different things from a TPS sensor, ISC motor, engine temperature sensor. Is it flashing any Fi codes on the dash? Sorry for the delay on the response I am currently traveling with the race team I work for.

according to Suzuki's spec you should have 0.4 through 1.0 ohms of resistance between all three yellow wires. And no resistance to the yellow wires the ground. And you should check your AC voltage output and should have 75 volts AC and above at 5000 RPMs unloaded and that would be checking it between all three yellow wires while the motor is running and revving the motor up. 0.2 is a little bit low but I would definitely check your AC voltage output

Man I’m at a loss on this quad i work on quads all the time but this one is a nightmare so I had a spare kq 700 motor that was junk mostly so I took the stator out of it and put it into the running one and I’m still getting the same reading .1 or .2

What are the chances of having 2 bad stators I checked the reg/rec and it says it’s good I even switched out the entire harness the other day because I had one where the reg ec was different so I switched the entire harness just to use it but there was a break in it somewhere so I switched it back so here I am about to light it ablaze

It is a possibility. did you check your AC voltage output on both stators? also you could have a bad rotor / flywheel. I have ran across other manufacturers where the flywheel magnets started to become unglued and moved and would cause a major charging issue and intermittent spark sometimes. but can you tell me what your AC voltage output is around 5000 RPMs? this sounds like one I would love to plug my factory Suzuki diagnostic tool into to see if I can get any crazy readings.

It's a really good possibility thay your reg/rec is bad too. With the stator grounding out its a good possibility that ypu have a short to ground on the reg/rec causing it not to run.

@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 pulled stator out and it seems to bench test fine? It'll read bad for like 1 second then it goes back to OL for the next 5 minutes of trying to get a reading.

That would be a sign of a bad stator. If it was grounded out on the motor that was you first sign when testing it. When you get intermittent reading like that then the stator is starting to breaking down

Yes there is a way to test the TPS itself and the wiring from the TPS to the ECU. Are you getting a c14 code or a p0120 code? that is a faulty malfunctioning TPS sensor code. Also since your TPS won't stay centered you most likely have a faulty TPS sensor. if you're interested in testing it more you can send me an email at limitlesspowersports78@gmail.com and I can send you some screenshots from the service manual that shows you how to test it all. I'm pretty sure you have a faulty TPS sensor. If you purchase a new one please buy an OEM TPS sensor from Suzuki. Do not buy an aftermarket Chinese piece of junk because it can cause major problems.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 Thank you, email sent.

Same here, adjust it. Centered looked good. Couple throttle snaps and its either too high or too low, adjusted looks good, throttle snaps, same thing too high or too low.

double check to make sure your butterfly is closing all the way every single time. Make sure the throttle body is completely clean no debris in the way but that's most likely a failing TPS sensor. The TPS sensor is done by voltage so if it's not getting back to the proper spot once it returns it's going to read off because of voltage is reading off. I would just go ahead and replace it.

Hey Rick. Is it flashing any FI codes on the dash? It's possible that you have a bad fuel pump are a fuel pump relay. You would have to do a fuel pressure test to see where it's at when I stalls & dies.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 thank you I have made up a fuel line with a T in it for a pressure gauge from before on another test. I will put that in line and fire it back up and see what the pressure is when it dies and when I start it up. I think that pressure supposed to be around 13 pounds do you know?.

Hey Rick. It's supposed to have 43psi. Anything less you need to check for a kink in the line, the fuel filter, pressure regulator. Sounds like you just need to replace the fuel pump. But don't go buying a cheap one from Amazon. You need to get the OEM one. The knockoffs are crap & go out fast & sometimes don't produce the right fuel pressure.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 thank you for getting back to me. It has an OEM fuel pump in it now. But as far as I know, it’s the original fuel pump. I will check the pressure while it’s running and see if it when it stalls the pressure drops before it stalls and if that’s what’s making it stall. Can you give me a website to order OEM parts from?

I use partzilla.com are you can hit up a Local dealer but partzilla.com gives ypu a little better deal.

Hey Hermilo, Thanks for checking out my channel. When you say it would not start the next day, do you mean it would just turn over and not start or was a battery dead?

No this issue wouldn't not cause the speedo not to work. You could have a bad speedo sensor

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I have rest of the issues followed along with this. Also if I hook up thermals neutral light will come on off..

Hey Fullsend Offroad. Thanks for stopping by & checking out my channel. You definitely have a bad battery. It may show the proper voltage when you test it at 1st but when you put a load on it it is not keeping the proper voltage. So one way you can try is to put a jumper pack on it and try to turn it over like that period but what you're telling me is the sign of a bad battery.. Also your overheating problem would be definitely check your coolant levels clean your radiator out and make sure that your fan is turning on and Make sure your fan is turning on and it's not it's most likely a thermal switch on the radiator that is going bad I have seen this go out in the past.

@@cylewinkler916 damn thanks! Yeah it turned out that my battery was just low on voltage. I dkd some research and found out that KingQuads would eat up juice real fast. However with the overheating levels in the gauge i cant see my temperatures so that sucks. I have powerwashed my radiator many times in the past but it would still overheat and turn off. My fan, at least, IS turning on. But ive heard of many radiator issues on the KingQuads. But nothing explains my FI system interrupting my cold start...

If your battery was low like it was that will make your EFI not have enough voltage to keep up. And then it restarts itself all over again. So my question is now is your EFI still restarting with a fully charged battery? Also definitely check to make sure your coolant level is full it's full and check the coolant reservoir to make sure it is full. And also use post to change your coolant every 2 to 4 years. So definitely do a coolant flush in the whole entire system and make sure all the air bubbles are out and Hopefully that cures your overheating problem. Otherwise it's a possibility that your water pump is starting to go bad. But if you haven't flushed your cooling system out since you've owned it you definitely need to do that.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 wow thanks! Yes i will check my coolant.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 yeah I charged my battery and my EFI now doesnt interrupt!

You're just a little on the high side. You're looking for 0.4v - 1.0v but I think you will be ok. Have you checked you to to see if your grounded out anywhere & the AC voltage output. You are looking for at least 75vac are more at 5,000 RPM.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 yes sir stator is not grounded out to the frame or to the negative battery post however the new rectifier i bought worked great for about 2 days and now it is overcharging where as the factory one was undercharging... is it possible i just bought a cheap crappy regulator or is there an underlying problem im missing? thanks!

its up to 20 volts to the battery! yikes

Well I know the o.e.m reg/rec is about $150. If you ordered one off of Amazon it could be just a cheap p.o.s. Did you happen to check the AC voltage output on each leg at around 5,000 rpms

Hey Jim. Just because you changed it doesn't mean that was the cause for your FI light. You need to jump the diag plug & read the code. If the problem is fixed then the FI light will automatically go away. Check my video on how to jump the plug.

I'm located in Ozark Missouri.

lol. You know my phone lines always open bro. Miss you my friend hope you're doing well

When you say dies when you put it into gear, what exactly is it doing? Is it just shutting off instantly, slowly idling down & dies? Are you sure your battery is charging & has proper voltage?. Do you have any FI codes? But also having a instrument cluster you can read helps too lol. But your fading issue, it's not just the plastic lens over the cluster getting cloudy?

Hey K Dailey. Thank you for the kind words & checking out my video. Yeah I run across a lot of people & techs that need a lot more knowledge but it doesn't happen over night unfortunately. I've been in the industry for 25 year. I try to keep educating myself as much as I can.