Using K-Series Coils and Porsche Fuel Injectors on a Ford - Ford V10 4V Build Ep. 11 

Couldn’t help but smile when you said Richard Holdener offered to dyno it, that’s awesome!

That's so awesome Richard offered to dyno it, can't wait to see that happen!

Content is content, don't forget. You're doing somethinhg nobody has tried before, so don't ever feel discouaged when you hit a bump. I can tell by watching how you guy's think that you'll figure this out. Great work as always.

You guys are going to start a new craze

I cant wait to hear this thing sing

YEAH Holdener helping out! He'll keep the squirrels under control.

I would much rather listen to the sound of the tools than the music-over. Very cool project. This could really be a huge deal. I'm a retired,factory trained Ford tech (mechanic). I've always wished Ford would have made a high performance DOHC version of this engine. Amazing work guys. You just got yourselves another subscriber. Please consider at least turning down the music volume. _And stay off my lawn!_ 🙃 Yeah, I'm slowly turning into a grouchy old fart.

Bro, your editing on these videos is perfect. I get caught off guard by the meme clips every time.

A big part of engineering is problem solving and you guys knock it out of the park. To see this engine on the Westech dyno would be YT gold.

That’s awesome, Richard Holdener wants to dyno her! He’s a national treasure.

Lol, the butt joint test was gold 😂

That intro!!! 🔥🔥

you guys are killing it! the water leak is worrisome....keep at it!

There’s a channel called Peterbjorck on which a bloke welds up a Lamborghini v10 block (aluminium) after a huge chuck near a main cap broke off. He carves out a huge channel, must be 10mm deep and wide, and fills it up with weld. Would have gone through plenty of rods, but it machined up fine afterwards. Take your time and do it properly. You blokes are incredibly competent. Keep working to a high standard.

Old school hot rod stuff, I like

This is absolutely awesome. Love all the work you are doing. However, get your shiz together with the crimps my guys hahaha. Either use the bare metal crimps like you have and add adhesive lined heat shrink or buy butt connectors with the adhesive lined heat shrink covers. :P I think you already figured that out though. Alternatively, replace entire wire lengths and buy the proper pins and crimping tool. I'm sure you can handle it. I don't want to see any not water proof crimped on the dang wiring. Loving this engine build. Huge bummer about the coolant leaks, but I'm sure you'll get it solved.

VERY CLEVER CREATIVITY. AND SIGHT GAGS!! NICE 👌👌👌👌

There are crimp style butt connectors that also have the heat shrink tubing around them. Crimp, then heat. I’ve seen those even at Autozone and I have used them for over 15 years with no issues (well, the OEM VW/Audi ones, not the Autozone stuff). Also, you can more easily (and safely) measure the voltage drop of anything in a circuit with a load at one end. All you guys had to do was put a bulb at the end of the wire and run a wire from bulb to ground. The values may not have been as large, but you are just looking to compare.

The manifold looks good. But you fellas should clean up your welds, they take away from all that work you both have done so far. I’m just and old gear head that’s been doing what your doing since the late 50s. What ever that’s worth. Love your idea about doing the Ford V10. Always wanted to do one myself. You guys are an inspiration to an old street rodder. Keep it moving on down the road!

I love watching these videos. My favorite part in every video is “…however, we had to make some modifications.” That’s when I know shit is about to get good! Nothing about Dorman is higher quality for anything. Stay away from Dorman!

Excellent progress, you're nearly there 👍

Don’t use red rags or paper towels on the head surface unless you use pressurized air and brake clean to wash off any of the residual fibers. I love the build so far! You guys are amazing!

as a big Ford and JDM fan i LOVE the k24 coils. and im dying to see how richards followers react to the 4v V10. set backs are part of everything, dont take it too hard, keep plugging away guys!

I'd love to see the performance difference with just that I take alone. Much better and higher air flow that the originals in the 2v and 3v models.

Great work. Love the attention to details and experimentation

Love the Intro! Nice work gents

Intake finish looks great... but I humbly recommend sanding down all the welds to be more smooth and "factory" looking... you won't regret it... bro, trust me.

I’ll pay for a build like this with my V10 Ford then shove it back into the Eseries and have the best overland rig ever

Keep paving the way! Great work

One of the most exciting engine projects ive seen in years! Awesome work!

This is my kind of build, you guys are awesome

Great episode, good luck with the heads! This is top tier fab work, I wish all car shows were this good.

Awesome! Love this build!

For air tests spray soapy water on joints and watch for bubbles.

Thank you for sharing your success and failures with this amazing build. I see your sub count is climbing as it should. V10 trailblazers. Can’t wait to see it in action.

Really excited to follow your project, like your approach and also the way you put together this videos, perfect pace and balance with details and thoughts. Looking forward to hear this engine start up and go on the dyno. Good luck 🤞

The applications are numerous. This would be THE engine going into my Factory Five Racing project, if I were to start one. Best of luck working with Richard Holdener.

Good job boys. When you are doing something new it’s ok to have a few setbacks.

Awesome opening sequence! The plenum would look cool with beads sanded and blended in brushed natural. Btw there is nothing saying you cant solder a crimp. Best of both worlds. And the shrink with the hot glue inside is thick but so worth it.

Congrats on the camshaft solution. That must have been a nail biter problem.

Non insulated butt connectors are a great option, do not use those solder joint butt connectors, the low temp solder has a big problem with consistent solder penetration.

This is super cool, and Richard holdner is gonna dyno it . Make sure you hide the nitrous from him 🤣

When you're doing the regular crimp style butt connectors, if you want to get them to be 100% corrosion free, slather the connection you've crimped with dielectric grease *before* putting the shrink tube over it. This will seal them pretty well and the excess grease will squish out the ends. It doesn't work as well at sealing as the kind that have the shrink tube built into the connector, which I think is essentially hot glue, and those you can submerge in salt water and have no problems, but it will resist splashing of water and rain indefinitely in my experience.. I have no experience with the solder kind, and I avoided them because I don't think the solder is getting hot enough from a heat gun before becoming molten to make a genuinely good and strong connection. This experience I have with this was hard won from doing field repairs on trailers for my father's fleet of trailers, and some automotive wiring as well. Trailers are notoriously unreliable for wiring because of how they often run in the shit and then get parked for months on end. I've had great luck on trailers with both the regular butt connector/dielectric/shrink tube combo and the crimp style butt connectors with the shrink tube built in. The holy grail seems to be a lineman splice, manual solder, dielectric grease, then shrink tube, but that takes so long I stopped doing it. On a project like this I might make an exception and do the work. Another thing I was surprised by was that wire nuts actually seem to last longer than butt connectors when unprotected from the elements. I did that one time on my father's trailer when I was a teenager just to get the thing home. That connection held for a few years and we ran that trailer in road salt constantly. They look janky as all hell but they work really well and they're plenty strong. I actually do all of my under-dash wiring for radios this way still because it allows me to quickly switch between different stereos if I choose to do so without having to shorten the pigtails on the connectors. I have literally never had a wire nut connection fail in this application.

Try to pull vacuum on the welds when you epoxy your seams .it's will suck the epoxy into the holes

You might do well to grind off your welds and re-do the internal plates on the heads. I have concerns about those external welds holding anyway because you just put the heads together and didn't vee out the mating surfaces, like at all, so there's only a glob of weld material sitting on top of the two pieces. I don't have high hopes for these holding together as the engine heat cycles. You're probably leaking at the mating surface as well since those welds were machined down, which will be really annoying because you might not see it until the engine is running and there's steam coming out the exhaust. I've never welded aluminum, but I've had a few steel welds fail and this is exactly why. I globbed weld material on top of the two pieces thinking they didn't need to be very strong, and lo and behold, they broke.

This is going in a Corvette? That would be hilarious.

I don't know if the same is true for every manufacturer, but a member on a Mazda rotary forum pointed out that the OEM wiring doesn't have any solder joints, only crimps where necessary (ie, branching out a ground to multiple wires). I believe crimping is the name of the game in the marine world, too. I like to use quality uninsulated butt connectors (I got a bunch of 3M ones from McMaster years ago) covered with adhesive-lined heat shrink.

Easy way to use the spring loaded injector plugs is rotate the injectors so you can fit the plugs

It looks like you're vested in the k24 coils but you can run the ls d585 coils in the 4v head with a little modification. They do protrude through the coil cover slightly but it is a clean setup. I have been running them on my ms3 controlled 4v for a few years.

I about died when you polished the chambers AFTER machine work. You need sharp edges to bite into head gaskets properly. You guys have done an awesome job building this engine but have missed some very important details that are small but by no means minor.

You should be doing a lineman splice before using those solder heat shrink things.

Natural aluminum is the way to go!

I really hope this goes in a second gen lightning with a stuck A propper ram srt10 killer

If you use a proper ratchet crimp tool with the harbour freight style crimps you won't pull them apart (source: I'm an engineer in the high voltage electricity distribution industry)

I want to take a disk sander to your intake welds😂

My parents have that same creeper. You guys go to car shows in the area? I'm in the area and i'd love to see this in person when it's done.

This needs to go into a superformamce gt40

28:10 they make that Liquid Copper Block Seal that ya add to radiator fluid, tho the engine might need to be running for it to work.

Why is the new oil pick up tube bigger?Maybe, because it has to have more volume.That bushed smaller oil tube might give you problems.

With the MAP sensor vacuum line, do you think you will need some sort of crossover tube between each half of the intake manifold, or possibly dual MAP sensors?

Would be great if Steve Morris made some custom heads for you. But cost would be prohibitive I would think.

Run it on methanol. I did notice when you welded the heads together, particularly the deck, that you didn't v it out. This might end up being an issue.

Do you need another o ring or gasket on the oil pickup tube?

I'd go with high 28X duration on both intake and exhaust, on 118* centers. At least 13mm lift. I'd be disappointed if you didn't hit 800 bhp at 7800 rpm ;)

Go with the crimp that doesn't come apart.

once things go successfully make a couple more then sell and make that extra cash along with extra smiles

Could the voltage drop test of been flawed because you did each crimp in series on the same line?

I still think it's going in that s14 that was in the background.

If the two pieces of each head were sealed where they join, how does the water flow through them, isn't one end of each piece sealed? How can the water flow?

You guys going to run a cyl head temp sensor?

💯👍💪🙏

Stay away from boundary. They're known to have issues.

Shouldn't be hard to plug those leaks. You can pull a vacuum on the head and suck the epoxy into the leaks.

Get new head gasket ,run some die in water so when taking off head see what going on

All of this work in the engine, yall should really consider building a dry sump setup instead of fooling with those gears. The dry sump will perform much better in those higher rpm’s tut you’re trying achieve.

Boundary oil pump gears are known not to be the best.

Dorman is not high quality. They are the trash of the aftermarket parts world.

Injector should have a slight angle of incidence with the airflow. In the current configuration the airflow will be pushing that fuel cone into the area you were initially concerned about. Hopefully a non issue.

Just get a new set. Don’t try epoxy