Jaguar E-Type monocoque body shell and bonnet restoration panels - our videos describe our high-quality, precsion panels and how they are installed, along with lots of tips and tricks and general discussion on E-Type restoration.
Your probably aware of this but the large tube that goes throu the tank, side to side has a hole in it, into which the Otter swiitch protrudes, in order to get an acurate temp reading. What you might not have found is that in reproduction tanks that hole can vary in size. I presume that a tighter fit would be best in order to prevent "short circuiting of the flow" which BTW would be an issue in your case, not wanting diret from the engine to get to the radiator during initial running. I would presume your original tank will have the proper size hole in the tube. Tom G. 67 OTS all Series 1 except for non covered headlights, never liked them anyway. Interestingly thought the bonnet seems to have all the metal work to acept covered headlights.
Hi All and Chuck in particular! Love your channel as a subscriber and LOVE the miracles you perform with your hands. You have probably already seen it, but just in case you haven't I thought I'd share with you and the RU-vid community how that Donavan Motorcars E-type ended up that way. The link was originally shared with me by my "Jaguar Whisperer/Guru" Dean Cusano at Motorcars in Plainville, CT. If you love old Jags as we all do, it's hard to watch... Also hard for Datsun lovers; it was a 260Z that rear-ended the E-type. OUCH! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XiFCngPUBgM.html
Hi Great Vids, Im here in the UK shortly to start ma resto , would love to see a video showing more details of how you do the series 2 to 1 rear end conversion and also how you would go about filling in a webasto sunroof hole on FHC, Cheers Graham
Bondo in the nose? Find one that doesn’t have some. I found my 63 behind a hanger at the airport, had sat out with the top down for a couple of years, and this was in 1975! $900 purchase price. Very little rust.
I've needed this info for two weeks! That harbor freight kit is exactly what I've needed to start working out the weld low creases on the patches I just put on the doors. Thank you!!!
Very nice work Chuck, I did work on the right floor and boot, welded in. Left door I made from metal, having the other door as template, rear lights made of Stainless and frames inside the back of the body because of giving me the wrong rear end with the car cut of the original rear. So I made metal for the underside, closing the part for the other series 3 plus 2+2. Lot of work, but it's hobby.
For me My father RIP had a Series 1 4.2 Roadster That is the purest Mate all I would do is put up rated brakes bigger Wires on it but I would want Rudge Wheels on it same as D type electronic ignition and and up rated lights extra powerful for inside the beautiful Glass Top it off genuine factory, hardtop 😂😂😂😂😂😂
The noise, the sound just remind me of my Dad Same exactly Series 1 4.2. Roadster with original factory, hardtop . If I was to ever own one, this is the exact condition I’d want it usable driveable condition. All I would do is upgrade the brakes front and back upgrade. Also the headlights because I remember they wasn’t too good at night. Put a stainless steel straight through exhaust and electronic ignition on it, and that car would be good to go for me. I will change my Wire wheels for the old D type knock on Rudge Wheels 👌👌
Hi Chuck . I restored a very badly rusted 140 FHC way back in '96/7 . Strangely, the only alloy panel was the boot lid . This is a very good buy for someone . Wee you going to show the FHC ? Thanks Chuck.
what a great car!I have a '55 one, in old english white (a tad sader condition I must confess) that have been waiting for my tlc for a good 3 decades now... PS: data plate location should not be on the fender but on the LH flat (behind the exhaust) near the firewall
My 1967 2+2 is also a 1.25, and I can report that there is no dual fan on mine. Mine has no AC, so as you surmised, that appears to be the differentiator. Now I have to add some caveats here - in 1989-1991 I worked in auto shop that specialized in British cars, I can tell you that around model switch years it’s almost like Jaguar would clean out the parts bins and mix and match towards the beginning/end. I saw factory cars, untouched since new with parts from previous models on them on more than a few occasions.
Man, I'd like to have this car. I've always lusted over a 140 roadster. But, I have absolutely no talent in restoration or mechanicals. And I don't have the cash needed to slowly have experts do it up. 😪 Finally, I plan to stay with my spouse so... buying a project Jag may jeopardize that. It was tough enough to convince her I needed that XKR a few yrs back.
Hi Chuck. Mine is a series 1 built January 1967 with covered headlights and original header tank. I had purchased the mudguard rubber trim kit from SNG. It came with 2 fixing strips I had no idea what do with. Then I saw on your red car the rubber strips on the left side air intake valance. The strips were absent on the green car. The lightbulb lit. I went and pulled out the old panel that was replaced during restoration (supplied by you BTW) and noted my January car was also not fitted with the rubber strips on the valance. Every time I watch another e type RU-vid video I learn something useful! Thanks
I've just purchased a old English white Series 2 .. (I believe) bonnet that was damaged 35yrs ago .. is it possible to email you photos to accurately identify my bonnet ?
Chuck, it just so happens, my '67 2+2 is a June build and a 1.25 series car too. Having owned for over 50 years, this vid really put the closure on my curiosity about when & why the covered headlights were omitted. Mine is an AC car too, in Pale Primrose.
Some day before I go to meet my maker I will have an E-Type again. Thank you Chuck for these great videos. They take me right back to when I owned my Jaguar’s 45 years ago.
Hey Chuck you looked like a Proud Poppa showing off your two E-Types, I even learn some things today about the Series One & 1/4... also the little One & 1/4 has a door on the glove box !!! is that something that started in 67? Gosh I love that 66 !!!!!!! and it's RED!
@@monocoquemetalworks88 I gotcha … I’m having some guys re-do a ‘66 Conv. 4.3 E type … It’s not ALL matching numbers but I think 2 out of 4 on that “ engine” plate are matching . It’s coming along , We are starting the interior in about a month … wish me luck 🍀
That’s a good question, actually. But I did just check and that 2+2, which was built on June 6, 1967, does still have the standard series one block. But it wasn’t too long after that that they moved to a very similar block, but it had a little extra casting area, just forward of the oil filter mount, and there are a couple drilled and tapped holes there that must’ve been for something on one of the sedans…
Great content, thank you ! your videos have answered a lot of my questions on restoring my 1968 ser. 1.5 roadster. I did notice your interior on the series 1.25 has all series 1 interior but has a covered glove box like my series 1.5 with series 2 interior was that from the factory or did you add this to your car?
Hey Chuck...Nice explanation of this situation...you had given me the same info a couple of years ago and I decided to order your 'sugar scoop and flange' kit and take my '67 OTS back to covered headlight status.I did this mainly because when I was a thirteen year old boy ,that was the look that I remembered seeing and loved ! ...and by the way,your kit worked beautifully with no welding or planishing needed and...except for us Jag Heads,who's to know if it's a 1.25, or a 1.5 or a whatever?...as the Heritage Certificate say's,they're all series ones until they're not !! .Thnx again for your great advise and advice.
I’ve found little pieces of mig wire on my early October 64 coupe seat frames so I can confirm mig welding was used. Plus the engine frames, picture frames are spectacular. Replace if even questionable.
I own a '66 FHC that has similar fuel delivery issues. It ran for many years, but this past year, it seems to have fuel starvation issues. The fuel filter is dry, but all the lines are intact. I know the fuel pump is working, but doesn't seem to be pumping fuel. I've been looking at your videos to get some ideas of what to do, hoping I can get it going!! Great work on this one!
Thanks Chuck, I learned much about the E Type's carrage construction thru your video, thank you for making it. Ive often heard this is the most difficult car to restore. Bart/VA
Just watched the whole series. Great work. I've seen this car before at Limerock, and after seeing the work you did, i hope i can see it again. Thanks for sharing.
