Hi Nathan, and thank's for the video. It's same on my 1999 prado with 1kz-te engine, the light ternd off after only 1 second, but the the glow pluge relay stay on for 17 second.
@@nathansharma87 is it 2 rubber hoses about 20cm long connected to some solid metal ones via hose clamps? There's solid metal pipe on each end of the rubber. The furthest back part goes up into the side of the van.
moreys is a serious product, i put a whole bottle of oil stabaliser 1l in the sump its really thick sticky oil, it looks after old engines and keeps new engines new, ide have to say that this is another serious product, im about to try on my 07 hiace d4d 1kd
Low range has nothing to do with it and neither does the size of the drive shafts. An AWD has an open center diff. What that means is If both rear wheels spin, the front doesn't do anything or vice versa. They're only AWD when traction is evenly split front/rear AND side to side. 50:50 4WD has a locked center diff so front wheels at each end will turn even if both back wheels at one end were to brake traction. Even then one could theoretically argue they're only 2wd in a situation where traction is lost at 1 wheel on each end. True 4x4 regardless of traction is only achieved if you also have 3 diff locks. As for the VC 4WD they're best thought of as a 4x4 with lag. The VC only engages once traction is lost at one end. The problem with this is that you've already lost traction by the time it kicks in essentially starting to get stuck before it helps out. It's much better to have a locked center diff since you have drive to all wheels even before traction ever breaks and this may prevent loss of traction in the first place. My VW T3 Syncro van had a VC and I had a couple friends who also had Syncro's which they converted to 50:50 4x4 by replacing the VC with a solid shaft and decoupler. It's an easy conversion with this model because the military used these vehicles for a while and did this conversion to improve offroad performance. Kits can be bought. Anyway, it became apparent on a group drive through some soft sandy dunes that they had an edge over me with the VC. I'd be losing traction more frequently and got stuck in a few places they had no issues. Basically, I'd rate a VC as better offroad than AWD but falling short of selectable 50:50 4WD.
Thank you for this long and detailed explanation. I hoped you would have put chapters to make it easier. These have a viscous coupling transfer case so according to your superior information, it's a 4wd.
Thanks! The HiAce has always had an engine overheating reputation. I am currently rebuilding a 1999 LH112 that has quite some issues. Albeit I want to repair the coolant level sensor as well!
I've had the 2WD version of this car in Australia for almost 15 years and I love it. I got a Tesla Model 3 a couple of yeara ago but end up giving it to my mother recently and I'm using the van as daily driver again.
I'm looking at a KZ120 and am pretty worried about it. I'm having it looked at by a local mechanic (pre-purchase inspection), although the mechanic has likely never worked on a Hiace. Also, it's 2500 miles away from me; it's a very long drive to get it back, and the possibility of breaking down on my way back is the most concerning part for me.
Hey there I’m sorry if you ended up having to sell, I’m over in the US considering my first JDM 4x4 van. Looking at turbo diesel Toyota townace 5MT 2.2L. Being 6’2” I’m wondering how comfortable it’ll be. Just curious but what is your height and your opinion on tall drivers in these cab over JDM vans? Also I’m totally with you on the electric car opinions, I much prefer buying something built for longevity and repairing things myself. I find none of that in any of our US Electric cars
Hi mate hope you're well. I'm 5"11 on a bad day, 6ft when I'm not hunched over lol. The Townace is narrower but should have tonnes of headroom. They're so freakin cool. And so rare now. I only saw them in New Zealand recently and people are beginning to notice they're niche because many were outside panel shops getting resprays I assume. I also recall Japan not having any more spare tail lights for them they were that popular they ran out. Definately with you on electric cars. I see their appeal but I'd rather not have a smartphone as a car.
Is there a hiace that has the stronger TURBO diesel motor in but also has the manual locking front hubs? Or if you buy a hiace with manual locking front hubs, does it mean you are stuck with the gutless NON turbo diesel motor?? I cant seem to figure this out.
Negative. Early models had the 3L engine which isn't the three litre they called the 2.8 non turbo the 3L for some stupid reason. It had the hi and low range 4wd and manual front hubs. When the 1KZTE 3L turbo diesel got thrown in the newer models they got rid of manual hubs and hi and low range since the engine torque would be enough to overcome most situations. Regardless the front hubs and the same as a Hilux Surf (4 Runner) so you're not going to break them (auto hubs) unless your rock crawling with lockers and giving it death...in which case your pushing it beyond what it's made for anyway. You want the strongest IFS setup of the 90s in any Japanese 4WD? Pajero or Delica.
i sold my Hiace early 2023, and while it wasn't anywhere near as nice as yours, it was kinda sad that it was also converted to a vanlife rig. the thing i liked most about it was its exteme versatility in stock form
So true. Absolutely nothing like it. I still think about finding something that's small enough for town, but big enough for my extended family and have room for luggage and, can do a trip driving down the beach or drive through flooded roads plus, have enough power and amenities to still be practical daily. It's the only car to ever tick those boxes.
mounting it that way and taking it off road is a good way to damage the face of the spare wheel which isnt ideal if youre doing 5 wheel rotations and want to keep them looking half decent. you also run the risk of tearing a valve stem out if it ever scrapes.
Excellent and unusually specific. I’ve been using the Dynapro AT (not AT2) and I’ll be looking for something similar when it comes time to replace. A couple of problems with them is they are not a LT tyre (so not ‘106/103R’) and don’t have the ‘3PMSF’ logo (so aren’t technically bob-on for winter driving in places where this is necessary, at least my set don’t have this). I didn’t know about the dual weight rating for LT tyres and found this: “The load index on light truck tyres is different from that of passenger cars: it usually has two ratings separated by a slash. This is because most light truck tyres are designed to be used in a dual back wheel system with two tyres side by side. The first number is the load rating when the tyre is used alone and the second is the rating when it is used as a dual tyre. The dual rating is usually lower to cover situations where one tyre in the pair fails and the other has to carry the full load.” It’s on a Pirelli website and I don’t think you got this spot on, but no dramas. Anyway thanks for going into the details. I wasn’t aware of the wheel-size website and very grateful to you for including that. I also didn’t realise the many types of tyre sizes fitted to the H100.
ECT button just moves the transmission shift points higher, i.e. makes the transmission hold on to gears longer, which reduced gear hunting in certain situations. The Overdrive button is just the 4th gear lock out. I never understood why not just have 1-2-3-D. Instead Toyota had L-2-D and Overdrive button. I left it almost always on. I guess it was one of those current fad things, done of unclear reasons, kinda like the zig-zag pattern shifters that followed a decade later.
