Hello, good contribution. Something curious happened to me. With the ATX power supply it turns on without problems, but if I try with its power supply it does not turn on. I've tried a new one and it's still doing the same thing. Any advice? Greetings
Hello, good contribution. Something curious happened to me. With the ATX power supply it turns on without problems, but if I try with its power supply it does not turn on. I've tried a new one and it's still doing the same thing. Any advice? Greetings
I have a launch model PS4, the power and eject buttons stopped working 3 days ago, bummer, cause now I'm having a prob with a newly bought disk that won't install,and without the power button I can't get into safe mode.... controller not putting the console into safe mode ...
I have an adp-200er, with 4.8v standby no problem. But as I turn on the 12v, 12v appears for an instant and goes and then the 4.8v mosfet, the 0.16ohm resistor and zd39 9.1v zener blows. Any suggestion where to look?
Hey, Chase spoke about your FB group but I don't do FB so figured maybe I can ask here. I have a switch lite, powers on, charger fine, no water damage but interminately it will shut off and sometimes shut off with a long beep. Voltages seem fine, charge port is fine and I don't see any obvious shorts. M92 and BQ seem fine as well. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
What an awesome video. Sorry for the late question, is it possible to use any diode or do I have to use the same type of diode? I am having the same issue and sadly don't have a donor board
@@Kazuhira_ I opened up my switch and found out that it was one of those without a diode. So I simply removed the fan and the joycons started working again with the switch. When the fan is connected, there is a short between the 2 points where the diode could have been. Without the fan, it fixed it. I checked for a short in the fan's PCB, and sure enough, there was one. So for me it was simply a bad fan. There are 2 options if you have this problem, 1) just remove the diode (if u have one), 2) remove the fan. I hope you find this helpful :) feel free to ask questions
Hello, how are you? Could you share with me the schematic diagram of the N14-200P1A source? Thank you very much, magnificent content, greetings from Argentina...
@@vloubilou it’s very tiny so you have really look for what it’s right next to. I can’t say exactly where given it’s been 2 months since I worked on the switch, but what helped was pausing right where he points to it and paying attention to where he was pointing at and what surrounded it. Iirc it shouldn’t be too far off from where the port for the fan is but I’d 100% would double check to be on the safe side
@@vloubilou keep in mind as well this is specifically for v1 (with the serial number starting with xaw) switches and not the v2 (with the serial starting with xkw)
@@igotkeyzzz thank you for your answer. I actually have a v1, but I had no diod. I had to buy another fan and changed it, it worked perfectly well ! Ty for answering
Great, there's actually 2 screws that the power brick actually has and i ended up snapping it off cuz im here thinking mine was just more tucked in. Complete garbage waste of time video
bro yesterday i installed a mod chip in my oled (im not professional nor skilled), everything was fine, boot hekate, emunand, installed games and played. but it's not charging anymore, can i do these tests? maybe i screwed these charging ICs somehow? battery drained to 1%, worked on dock, on pc i could transfer files via windows, but no charge at all :(
