This channel is dedicated to debunking false information for consumers trying to make sense of the solar market when purchasing a system. Call or text me at (760) 473-5878 for a quote.
you are incorrect about the Enphase IQ6 & IQ7’s, they are compatible with the 5P batteries and System Controller 3, they just don’t support “daylight backup”, and the Rapid Shutdown switch doesn’t work with them, but isn’t needed as the standard solar outdoor disconnect works fine. You didn’t mention the 5P batteries and system controller 3/3G now use a hardwired connection for control, that plugs into the combiner with an adapter (or just buy a new combiner, as it comes with the adapter and 4G modem for backup, plus the warranty on the combiner is only 5 years, so you get a new 5 year warranty as well, it’s small $$$ for the combiner anyway, compared to the cost of multiple 5P batteries and the system controller 3/3G.. I like the enphase system, because I don’t need extra batteries, for summer to run the AC, can add a fairly inexpensive 22KW generator ($5K, like one 5P battery) and it will run when needed, recharging batteries based on SOC settings.. and the next day the sun comes out again and tops of the batteries/powers the home.. also good for extended winter storms, with fewer daylight hours to recharge batteries, basiclly run the house forever even in lower daylight hours, or heavy usage (generator kicks in)
Thanks, I have an Enphase PV system with IQ8A Inverters and thought they were compatible with the PW3, my local installer just notified me they are not. So I'm going back to the 5Ps, but as you said it's going to cost me MORE for LESS given my local utility gives a $300 CASH REBATE so for my budget I'll be leaving some of that on the table as I can only afford 4 5Ps with 20 kWh vs 27 kWh with 2 PWs. But I like the reliance on the 5P with a single point of failure.
It doesn't quite sound like these two cost comparisons do well against bigBattery's Ethos or EG4's 18k outdoor. Maybe it would be appropriate to make that comparison?
The problem is that there’s hardly a contractor network installing DIY battery kits. The DIY kit batteries haven’t gained the trust of electricians who deal with these systems on a daily basis
I had 30 365 watt panels put on my roof. I talked with the company about upgrading our 34 year old 100 amp panel to 200 amps but was told our panel was adequate. Two weeks ago we almost had a fire because the panel is overheating. Is a 100 amp panel sufficient for 30 365 watt panels?
Do you know if it’s possible to add more strings of solar later in time with the PW3? I currently don’t have any system at all, but I do have a Tesla car. Thanks😊
I get the failure of high tech stuff, but for us it’s more about how long it take to get the replacement and installation. Morev than a few days and I’d be pissed. We have Enphase IQ8A Inverters and if one dies it’s no big deal. But our installer is local and has a great reputation. And we are adding two PW3s and given their built in Inverters a failure will shut my entire system down, so I’m hoping that when the inevitable happens I’m not screwed.
If Tesla can sell a 57.5kWh battery for $38,990, *WITH AN ENTIRE CAR BUILT ON TOP OF IT*, then they are making money on the powerwalls no problem. The price per kWh on the car is basically the same as the price per kWh on a stationary battery. As least for the rear-wheel-drive Model 3 with no incentives vs the powerwalls with no incentives
I’ve been saying this a long time… Tesla has unique advantages because they can lean on the R&D along with ordering material for EVs at the same time. I don’t know if they are losing money but I don’t think they’re making a ton. Less than a company not leaning on other revenues to survive
It’s also important to remember that most people are not fully charging up each day. Often at most it’s 10-15 KWh of power each day for the car. Sometimes less. So you CAN get away with just one power wall. I know, because I do.
this video got me thinking about the tesla loan I inherited with the purchase of my home a few years ago. Previous owner did a 4.4kw system that cost him a whopping 20k plus 20k interest on a 30 year loan. right now the loan balance is at 20k and I figure the best I can do is pay it off which I might be able to do by next year instead of paying tesla for the electricity and loan. I don't even understand how the monthly billing works.
Hey Julian. Very helpful info. I've caught a couple of your other RU-vid videos. I'm impressed by your knowledge and presentation. I went with an Energy Sage contractor. All my guards were up because of the low quote, but everything worked out. The initial pre-sale pitch was actually filled with good advice. They never asked me for a dollar until the install was underway. I paid the final 30% after it passed inspection and all the Enphase monitoring issues were sorted out. The price quoted was the exact price I paid. Turned out to be $2.34/watt. Good equipment - REC 220 panels and iq8A micros. I live in the Monterey Bay area in California. So, there are some legit good deals out there still.
Many contractors are simply selling jobs at cost to create cash flow and survive a bit longer before going under. That’s what this is. Can’t stay in business for long but can keep the crews paid while they hope for market conditions to change. Half the country’s solar companies have gone bankrupt in the last 18 months
I like your video. However, in addition to being more expensive and less efficient, microinverters are also not universal. This means that for instance if you are using iq7 , then they must all be the same model. Now, if one of them fails - you will need to find the exact same model, and this can be a problem, especially if the vendor no longer produce it. And the chery on the cake is that many microinverters require battery or grid and cannot directly use the energy of a solar panel (yes, I know there are for example iq8, which only recently could do this but they cost 2 times more than regular iq7) , this means that you will not be able to charge the batteries if the mains is disconnected and the battery charge is too low, even on a sunny day. At the same time, the central inverter can be replaced at any time by any other manufacturer and cost cheaper. And you know that technologies are devloping very fast so if you will need to replace central inverter to something more intersting then old one it will be cheaper, faster and much simpler.
I am in the process of shopping for Solar in California. What is everyone experience? Considering either Tesla Solar v.s. contractors who install Powerwall 3 or Enphase. I am thinking going with Tesla Solar because likely they will last longer than contractors. Also, what is your thoughts on Enphase IQ8/5p vs Tesla Powerwall 3? Thanks in advance.
Well, that’s not true at all. It makes perfect sense. But, there are definitely individuals and companies manipulating the truth and selling incorrect expectations. That’s what my channel is dedicated to.
That’s what I struggled with figuring out how to show people because costs differ throughout the country and there are lots of differences in the required electrical work for different situations. My advice would be get a few quotes to compare. I am more than happy to build a proposal for you and look at what you have with as unbiased of an eye as possible. Call or text 760-473-5878
Tesla Solar is getting out of the install business. They are shutting down the install part of their business market by market and focussing on being a manufacturer which is truly what Tesla is. The install part of Tesla Solar has been a disaster since it’s always operated at a loss
I own a solar business, and we have avoided Tesla due to instability, which was a gamble that's just now showing merit. Their sales team is great, but they have horrible support for installers and homeowners. Additionally, the products aren't as good as a few alternatives.
@@Superiorsolarconsulting Ah got it. I've been going with Energy Toolbase for years since Energy Periscope went under. The analytics are awesome and how you can API interval data directly into the proposal tool as the load profile really helps size systems. It creates great metrics that really help when doing a screen share with a potential customer. I'm not sure if any other tool has those analytics capabilities to upload the interval data load profile - rather than manual entry of overall kWh consumption values.
I used energy tool base for years, but their lack of a visual design doesn’t help with creating proposals for people to see that aspect of it. Luckily the other software take green button data so we can do interval data analysis given a customer is very specific.
@@Superiorsolarconsulting Yes I agree the marketing / sales aspect of ETB could use some improvement. Seems now in NEM 3.0 having that interval data is necessary now for system sizing and expected system performance. It almost feels like I'm doing a customer a disservice with manual entry because the way the battery operates versus their load profile can create vastly different performance summaries given 2 examples of the same system sizes and overall kWh consumption. Luckily to make it easier we have Utility API that interfaces with utility meter data and customer's just need to authorize us to access the data instead of them having to download and send it separately. I always cringe when I see companies that can take a picture of a bar graph and size a system based on that.
When NEM3 hit I got obsessed with interval data and didn’t even sell jobs for months because the software wasn’t ready. What I learned as I went through the process more and with battery inverter power ratings shooting up just in the course of a year, and with future consumption changes impossible to know, I have decided to ignore interval data (for the most part) as the past oftentimes won’t match the future and the payback period is unchanged unless the system is far too large. The software tools, even with green button data, still have lots of missing factors needed to give a proper breakdown. All we can really do is apply our knowledge from going through the exercise 1000 times and applying logic to a lot of these situations to understand how the system and batteries will truly behave. I appreciate you going the extra mile in general. It can’t hurt. I just find it gets customers in the weeds as they focus on exact sizing which the common customer doesn’t realize isn’t a big deal if it’s 10-20% off. The ROI is unchanged
I have a sunrun solar system, I purchased it with the house. Now I'm looking to add a battery to it. I've got a bid from sunova and Tesla. And you're right they want $30,000. Just for a battery and this property is in adelanto
Power density is only relevant if you don't have enough square footage of space to layout your desired total wattage of panels. I would buy based on Degradation rate and Temperature Coefficient and then warranty. Don't make this more complicated than it needs to be. I was pleasantly surprised that in a new install of QCells and Longi panels, the Longi's outperformed the QCells in my first two years of use, time will tell on the degradation of each.
The national electrical grid is a $TRILLIONS infrastructure investment. It needs cash flow. The grid makes dirt cheap electricity expensive. Look how small the feedin credit is. Grid costs are fixed. As more go offgrid, then grid electricity gets even more expensive and more will want battery electricity. Most vehicles are parked 23hrs every day. Battery Vehicles parked 23hrs every day are massive batteries compared to expensive home batteries. Battery Vehicles battery is FREE to be used every night to back up your home.
12 дней назад
Solar is an absolute scam.. it makes 0 financial sense.
That’s why I said if you’re commute is short and you’re only using a certain number of kWh a day, then you can get away with charging from a battery each night. This video was about giving the proper expectations to people about what charging their EV from batteries really looks like in terms of what they can get
When heading off yesterday morning I drained my 9.8kW LG Chem battery into my M3 Long Range increasing the car to 55%, knowing that the LG Chem battery would charge while I was away from home. Apart from when staying away from home, all of my EV charging comes from my 15 kW pv via my Zappi EVSE. If charging at a friend's house I use her free power between 11.00 am and 2.00 pm courtesy of her power company, Ovo Australia.
The battery is a buffer for the sun and, for most, a full electrical grid. No one comes home with an empty battery. Most people's cars are home at least 15% of daylight hours. Charging at work during the day and allowing your car to help the grid stay balanced is a profitable option.
I'm definitely one of those who thought I could go by an Anker F3800 with extra batteries and 4x 400w panels to charge my EV, not to full capacity but to add some easy and cheap range on the daily in my garage. I think I'd rather just find a soloar solution to reduce my daily cost of electricity and charge my car from the grid. Thanks for posting this video.
Nobody and I really mean nobody charges from 0 to 100 %. Most people charge from 20% to 80% at the extreme. This fact just makes your video totally worthless.
