With 50 years of riding experience, Jorge shares useful tips, information and opinions for motorcycle enthusiasts, riders, track day die hards, and anyone who just wants to be the best rider they can.
You not one to do things half baked. I recommended Mupo, and you went full Scoorge McDuck Bitubo - congrats on the upgrade, I'm a little jealous FYI. It's obviously too late now as Joe already had the forks in his hands. However for anyone reading, the DDC! Message and "!" Warning light can be disabled by going to the BMW Stealership and getting them to untick the DDC box in the parameters. Here is the kicker though - it can only be done whilst the DDC system is installed. It can not be done after the suspension has been swapped over - So you're stuck singin "... This lil' light of miiiiine, I'm goooona let it shiiiiiiine..."
haha, nope, looks like ill be keeping this bike for a long while too. Yeah I knew about that DDC issue and the need to do it before disconnecting. what's cool is I have the old bits and it is super easy to plug them in to the wiring harness, I reckon the removal could still be done by the dealer that way, I will do a little checking with my buddy at the Melbourne service centre,
I have just had the suspension set up.Can I calibrate the suspension on the stand or does it have to be straight up and down? Will the compression and rebound settings still be saved or will they be reset after calibration?
yes mate, damping settings won't change, just make sure the bike is not lifted and is simply supporting its own weight when you calibrate, I normally do it on the paddock stands front and rear.
nope, my riding style is to reduce lean angle as much as I can and the shorter wheelbase of these little bikes helps with having less lean angle for a given speed and corner as compared to longer wheelbase bikes. That said, I never took this on the track and pushed it as hard as I could, I spend my time on 1000s
Thanks for a great video! I have used it several times over the past years to perform this maintenance chore. Today, however, I am having a very hard time getting the front yoke of the driveshaft onto the spline of the transmission output shaft. Don't know what I am doing wrong, but when I reviewed your video you just say to reinstall it, with no further advice... just do it! Guess I will have to find some other video for help with this problem. Thanks again.
yeah sorry mate, I've never really had any issues getting it back in, I poke a screwdriver through the frame to lift the shaft up to align it and it seems to work ok
I got the same lights for my BMW S 1000 double R but when I installed them, my signals were kind of ruined. What is that cost? Please help me out let me know where I got a tackle to have to turn signals again appreciate it thank you.
sorry to hear that mate, I am not an expert on that, I just reviewed the lights and have not had an issue at all with mine. Id recommend doing a bit of a google search and see if someone else has suffered from the same problem and fixed it. Cheers mate
its an interesting tool for sure, definitely would be useful for cleaning wheels, I'll have to work out how to get it sorted from the front, I hadn't done that yet
nice, I have used them and they are fantastic, expensive compared to other castor wheel options but the best by far, maybe one day I'll get myself a set
I’ve got a 2022 with DDC - you’ve offered the best info I’ve found yet even knowing the model year is quite apart. Similar even if not the same. Incredible that dealer selling bike doesn’t offer basic setup knowing it’s not an easy or clear process. Like nothing else especially manual dial adjusters. The bike on to do the adjustment is likely just the start of it for most. Even to read manual supplied with bike barely skims it and the computer dealer service technician manual isn’t super clear. In fact I read dealer manual like a book page for page 4-5 times before it all started to come clear (along with doing each process where needed). The other major hurdle - all the specialist tools that are unavailable to pubic (along with the actual manual at least easily purchased) Bmw clearly want buyers paying (overcharging) the buyers to work on the machines. The most unfriendly serviceable bike I’ve ever owned. And by far the best machine simultaneously. 😢 Such that working on it until I figured it out was pure anger. Wanted to light it on fire a couple times.
Tip for fork geometry, check how much front tyre edge is not being used ,if it is excessive over 5mm you could lower the front end if there is no strip using whole edge front tyre you could raise the front end ,tyre can only be read on fast riders bikes that have been cranking corners and hard braking also. A very fast rider taught me this trick ,bike higher in front end great for late braking but may sacrifice mid corner grip 👍sik bike also
@@TheBikeStig very fast rider told me this trick ,only go 2mm at at time based on what you think your bikes doing he also said you don't want to be over the edge no where to lean from there ,I'm going lower front end K8 this week 2mm reckon it will give me better mid corner grip 👍
@TheBikeStig also raising rear of bike have same effect on front tyre something your prob aware of to, good to have a wear indicator for assessment on bikes handling.
george, can you still lock the steering with the stopper stuck onto the frame? been wanting to do this for a bit but i still use the bike on the street a fair bit.
a different rear size would affect traction control I believe as it works on rotational speed difference and this changes the relationship between front and back. What we dont talk about is how much does this affect that measure when the tyre is at lean ... my stupid brain says there's an 8mm higher radius when the bike is vertical, but traction control comes into play at lean. I might measure what the difference is at lean one day, I feel it might be less than people think.
I’ve had the pirelli supercorsa V3’s (200/60/17) on my 2017 Suzuki gsxr1000 and I love them. Love the turn in and edge grip. I didn’t need to adjust the front forks. The guys at the bike shop were telling me it won’t be good etc. I’m glad I didn’t listen. I love the balance of the bike now. I guess everyone is different on what they prefer though. It makes the bike longer geared so taking off from a standstill is less aggressive but when it gets going it is even faster than before. I may change the sprockets up for a better balance. The 200/60/17 is the same size as a racing slick I think. I really like these pirelli’s, so much confidence. The V4’s will be even better. 🇦🇺✝️
its interesting that the expectation is a negative affect on steering but then it turns out to be better, I have the lower gearing mine as well which works a treat.
Nice video. I have just done the exact same experiment with my 2019 Tuono V4, except I am running the Corsa 4 instead of the Supercorsa. I have used 190/55, 200/55 and currently the 200/60. Like you I expected the 200/60 to quicken the steering as it is significantly taller than the 55. However, just like yourself, I found no noticeable difference in turn in compared to the 200/55. The biggest difference was how the bike felt on the side of the tire. It is so stable and confidence inspiring in high speed high angle turns - especially when under acceleration. Interestingly the 190/55 is the quickest steering tire, which is kind of counterintuitive from a geometry perspective. However, after much chin scratching and dug into the tire specs and discovered that there is a significant difference in weight between all 3 sizes - with the 200/60 being much heavier than the 190/55. All I can assume is the the rotating mass plays a much greater role than geometry in quick side to side transitions. For me I think I will go back to a 190/55 for general road/canyon use and roll out the 200/60 for the track.
I only ride this bike on track or on spirited range rides, have been running 30psi cold front and 26psi cold rear on these Pirellis, I know we all seem to prefer a bit more in the front for track and hard riding.
@@TheBikeStig thank you much for your answer! Appreciate it. I live in Hong-Kong on hot weather and usually run 30 front 29 back for spirited rides on my 1299 so glad to have your expert feedback
Hey Mate, Thank you so much for the video. It's surprising how similar our bikes are. Here are a few things to consider: There's something called an eccentric washer on the shock absorber. Depending on who handled your bike during manufacturing, that washer is often in the "lower" setting. By flipping it, you get the same benefits as going to the taller profile, with one major advantage I'll discuss below. You didn't mention Traction Control, which I think is an important topic. Our ECU lookup tables are generated by the ABS sensors, meaning they compute slip/speed based on assumptions about tire circumference. By increasing the tire size, the computer allows more slip before activating traction control. Here are two and a half solutions to this problem: 1 Ask your dealership to change your ECU parameters. I went from a 190 to a 200 tire. You likely didn't need to do this because your forged wheels probably come stock for a 200/55 profile. BMW reprogrammed my ECU for the new rear tire size at no charge. 2 The RCK3 (BMW Race ECU software) has a table for tire size for this exact reason. It's not worth it unless you're using other RCK3 features. 3 In User/Slick modes (or all modes if you have your ECU flashed), you can adjust your traction control with 15 steps, giving you a few % more/less slip in absolute terms. In the real world, tire sizes don't always match their labels. My Pirelli 200 tire is actually around 195 millimeters. This manufacturing "wiggle room" is why people have different opinions on this topic. Some 200 tires are actually 205, others are 195 (and everything in-between) , which affects traction control behavior. BMW allows us to adjust slip manually to account for these variations but you can go only so far before you're up against the wall of -/+7 DTC P.S. Ask Joe where he thinks the DDC suspension belongs. It might be time for Mupo, my friend Cheers
Do you need to replace both sides in order to use. My starter switch has gone bang and wondering if i could just replace it with the jetprime one without doing the other side.
Im not the guy to answer this, but I suspect it's an all in replacement, or buy the OWM switch. The jet prime switches actually connect and work together. Check in with Jetprime.
Is it necessary to remove servo without change whole exhaus system? I have just changed slip on exhaus no decat. Also is it not using servo for any other purposes just for get bike quiet?
best thing is to talk to your local tuning people about this, soon as you start changing things you should be doing a proper tune of the ECU. Regarding purpose, I am not an expert but I believe the servo not only affects noise at idle, it also has a positive effect on low down torque ... like I said I am not the expert on this.
There is, i asked the customer service from MattGecko, they showed me pictures with E-Marks (E4) on each lense.. depends where you live but u should be all right
he's correct, in this video I am not saying press down by the way, it's press forward and then stop pressing ... press or push, meant to be the same thing.
im in the market for a newish bike, i was looking at a few 2020-21 WR450F for the $8500-$9500 mark and they are fuel injected plus Yamaha are known to be reliable machines then i seen this, the MX450 for like $7950 with 3 month rego and lifetime warranty, im very conflicted but after watching a lot of vids and talking to some owners im now starting to think about a Braaap MX450
