Compression Test on a 1999 Honda Civic SiR (B16A2) 

Glad it was helpful for ya

Let me know how the leak down check goes. Before you replace the fuel pump, try and get someone to turn power on while you listen to the fuel pump to see if it's getting power and turning on.

Did that already. Fuel pump working , but louder than usual. Sounds like its straining..will check for fuel pressure at the regulater.

Thanks!

Sorry if this is an old message. Never got notified of it. Did you figure out the issue? I've never had any issues with the distributor on my civic but I have on past vehicles. If you're not getting spark, I'd lean towards the distributor possible even the spark plug wires. Possible the plug itself maybe is gapped incorrectly too.

Nothing wrong with those numbers. She's a healthy motor right there

I'm not entirely sure about which one is better. I find the B16A2 is more common but that's just what I've found during all my searching. Others may say different. As far as what is a better engine, the H22A2 engine I've seen inside a del sol with turbo and it was a rocket. I like both engines. Can't go wrong with a good K series motor either or a B18 from an integra. Can even use a B16 head and B18 block for a longer stroke. Always a popular choice.

@@Trytec96 I am trying to narrow it down and decide... I went from these 2 engines to possibly the B16B to the K20A Type R... I am not going to race at a track or anything. Just want to put a solid engine in my Del sol with more Horsepower. I have the S type engine so 106 hp. Would Like at least 170, so a JDM or more... P.s. the only other thing is, I Love the Vtech Sound and the High Revving sound...

@@Trytec96 P.s. Thanks for the Quick Response... really appreciate that!!

@@MikeKollin oh go K20A for sure. I've never done a K20 swap so I'm not sure how much modding you'd have to do but I'd imagine you can buy the engine mounts for your del sol that will mount a k20. Honda parts and how to's are everywhere when it comes to mods to these cars. K20 is bullet proof and looks pretty cool in the engine bay when showing it off 😎.

Just off the top of my head, possible vacuum leak maybe. Have you checked the timing? How's the distributor? How old are your fuel injectors? Does outside temperature change anything?

@@Trytec96 thanks a lot for your reply! Everything is checked and cleaned. The b16a2 engine was swapped in from an ek4 vti, so the fuel injectors might be like 25 years old, however the engine was checked thoroughly before the swap and it was (and is) in perfect condition. I used my old obd1 ecu though to avoid cut and stick wiring harness work and of course it was reprogrammed from the scratch with the stock b16a2 settinls and map. Other thing that happened was that the idle rpm went to 900, up from 750-800 or so that it was before. It still runs smoothly though, without knocks and misfires. I haven't noticed the temperature factor, since as it's summer time, it's hot. However, yesterday it didn't do the rpm dip till 500. Just a very small one, as if the car changed its mind. If it was a vacuum leak, wouldn't the dip happen when cranking the engine being cold too? Cold cranking is fine: rpm go to 1500 and go down slowly, as the temperature goes up. No dip happens during a cold start and of course no CEL pops EVER. Thanks a lot!

Yes I agree. I just do it that way. Always have. Double redundancies. If you accidently remove the wrong connector, at least you're still covered. Not like it takes a long time to do.

Ya the previous owner who did the timing belt missed a step. You need to put tension on the belt, tighten down the tensioner bolt, then rotate your engine camshaft 90 degrees, loosen the tensioner, put tension on the belt again to take out slack, tighten tensioner bolt. They didn't do those last steps which left slack in the belt. Its why at low speeds it felt like a lag but at high speeds, the momentum of the crankshaft and camshafts kept everything unnoticeable. You are able to do all this with just taking the valve cover off, a coat hanger and I believe a 14mm socket. Coat hanger is used to grab hold of the tensioner.

Do you by chance have pictures or clips on how you fixed the lag with the tension belt? I replaced my head gasket and I’m getting a lag only on low end. I got a cold air intake and new headers. Dont think it will cause that much of a lag without a tune so timing is my next issue to address.

@@alexburden4970 I don't have any pictures but essentially I just took a coat hanger, mad a hook at the end, I snaked it through the cam gear cover and hooked onto the tensioner pully. I loosened the tensioner, pulled up on it and retightened it. Then rotate your crankshaft 90 degrees or where you feel the belt the loosest, and repeat the steps of loosening and tightening the tensioner using the coat hanger.

@@Trytec96 okay. Thank you ✊🏼

Lol. That was poor editing. One of the first comments makes a valid point. Crank until it stops moving. I think I said 6 because that's relatively how many cranks would happen before it stops moving up but ya I should have corrected myself in the video. Whoops haha

@@Trytec96 haha a query, how much is the approximate cost of a b16a2 in your country?

@@devkyo9799 it varies. I've seen them go for less then 1000CAD but ones that are in good shape I'd say around 2 and up I believe.

​@@Trytec96 In my country the simplest and not in good condition is over 3000 USD And now my currency is devaluing :(

@@devkyo9799 oh damn. I know of we import one from Japan which is in good running order and lower mileage were looking at 3 to 4000CAD. Youre better off just buying a B16 head for cheap and then a B18 block. You'll save some money that way and you're going to get way more out of that motor.

haha well you can always try again

@@Trytec96 I left the fuel and spark ON

@@yourmom705 oh okay, it's not the end of the world.