I left my Valve Body in the case, unbolted the 3-4 accumulator piston housing from the side of the Valve Body so I could access the harness retaining bolt from atop the Accumulator Piston Housing. Saved me the hassle of contaminating the VB, buying new gaskets and got me out of the dirt quicker... great products and great customer service.
I purchased Cascade Pressure Solenoid Service Kit (224432BAK). Watched your videos, and was easily able to put my sons truck back on the road. A 97 ram sport 4x4, I changed the spring, and the two modules, filter and fluid. And the truck shifts perfectly. What a fantastic fix for under $200 bucks!
Something important to note, make sure that all four wheels of your vehicle are off the ground before removing or installing the park rod! If there is any tension on the driveline, the parking pawl will be bound up and not allow the park rod to recede all the way in to reinstall the valve body. I found this out the hard way when I broke the electrical harness mounting bracket on top of the valve body by attempting to force the valve body in place when the park rod wasn't fully seated.
@willparfet8912 just from a quick internet search it doesn't seem to be absolutely required, but it sure would make things easier so you can freely rotate the drive shaft to get things aligned.
Absolutely AWESOME video series. Got the full service kit and did it myself. I know just enough to be dangerous, but this series made it easy (once I got the throttle and shift connecters off). Saved hundreds of dollars.
This same thing happened to me, except my 7000lb Dodge Cummins did not stop and took me with it. An emergency room visit and two month of therapy later, I'm here to say, "Check your chock blocks". Put the vehicle in neutral first, then you know the chocks will hold. Glad to hear you're safe.
By far the best and most complete kit for the Chrysler A500 based transmission. Upgraded heavier duty solenoids, conversion from 3 wire harness to a 4 wire harness W/O having to mess with the TCC/PCM, new 3-4 accumulator piston spring, filter and duraprene gasket. West Coast company shipped my kit to Michigan in 3 days... WOW.
I would like to say thank you. I been working on my 02 dakato. I had installed a 5.9 l. An I been working on my transmission.your video really helped a lot..ty
Pretty good video. Helped with installing the kit. Just some things I ran into that weren't shown in video: The TCC solenoid connector is behind shift linkage- remove it as it is tough to lower the valve body until the connector pops off. When you lower the valve body put your hand under the governor solenoid as the accumulator piston and 2 springs will fall out (if they do, then the long spring goes into case first then piston, then fat spring- It took a bit to google how that went back together). The TCC harness connectors for the governor were a little tight when connecting them and the solenoid (small 2 prong) connector was upside down from the original. After that my pan gasket was a nightmare. I used 2 gaskets, Right Stuff twice, and filled it 3 times with it dripping out before I had to tow it to a shop for them to do without any trouble. Just my bad luck I guess. My tranny shifts better and it cured a P1764 code( governor pressure sensor voltage low) and sluggish when you start driving. Haven't seen if it shudders on luck-up, but I bet it won't. Overall though, Its a good kit and good help to put it together and make it work right. Thanks.
I have a 1999 dodge 1500 5.9 engine. I have been trying to find an answer on a issue we are having with the transmission. Between the 2nd and 3rd gear it will down shift momentary and then shift into 3rd with no issues. This issue is driving me nuts, do you have a possible answer to our issue. It just causes the rpms to rev and then shifts. If you can point us into the right direction I would greately appreciate it.
Yes. Make sure you're vehicle is secure. My chock blocks weren't secure when I removed the park sprawl. I'll just say that was the most expensive error I've ever made, and I'm happy to still be on this Earth.
I started doing that today thank you for all the information and I wanted to replace the harness but I couldn’t figure it out but with you’re video now I’m more confident that I can do it no metal shavings were found on the pan but my transmission seems to not be working properly I’m thinking about buying the kit y’all from y’all I see y’all have one with all the sensors and harness
Greetings! I was replacing the solenoids and the piston spring today. Everything was going well (thanks to your vids), until I started to pull the valve body. As soon as I pulled the valve body the wheel chocks started sliding and the car rolled about 3 feet back. Yes with me under it! I continued with the repairs. Everything felt ok and it went back together smoothly. Unfortunately It acts like it's not in park and wont start. Is it time to tow it to a transmission shop or is this an easy fix?
Hello.Thanks for the video. I have a 95 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4. While idling in a drive through the trans lunges forward. How can this issue be diagnosed? It does change and go smoothly after it gets going. Thanks, David.
Hey guy, Great vid. I'm very good with engines, but I have never tackled a transmission aside from a simple clutch job. I have a 46RE on my 1500 and looks like the shift shaft seal is totally gone. It needs a new one for sure. I like your vid b/c its giving me confidence to pull the VB so I can tap that seal out from the underside. Do you know first if I can do that with it in the truck? Do you have any tips before I start my venture? Thanks so much in advance!
One more question I see that you're removing the valve body because you were going to do a rebuild if I was just going to change out the master so annoyed but I have to also remove the whole valve body or can I get by with just removing it with the valve body still in place
I got the $200 kit for my 2000 3.9 Dakota Sport. I waited for the weather to get better and I waited and waited... Finally got on it on May 8, 2021. They sent me the wrong two gaskets so I emailed over a month ago to get the right one. I have not heard from them so I got one from O'Reilly's. I have been looking at videos for months on the 42RE, even the Cascade ones skip valuable information, like how do you get the throttle linkage off and the real info about the number of turns for the bands to be turned, I found three different ones. And as they stuck the park rod back into the trans with the valve body, it went to the logo? I did not bother trying to get a hold of them because I do not have weeks to get this done. As I took the valve body out, two springs and a plunger fell out, boy what a surprise that was. No one on any video said a word about how to get those back in. On the bench video you can see the springs sitting in the hole as he takes off the valve body? Say some thing about that next time? Not very happy with this Cascade Transmission place. My first email to them took several weeks just make sure I have a 2000 and not a 1999. Then I found out there is only one guy on the emails? Really? I called my brother in Arizona and he gave me the advise I needed. Hopefully I can get it done tomorrow after three days of working on it, it is supposed to rain.... Hire some more people, there are plenty out of work.
Also, I never got the park rod out. I pulled and pulled. I just pulled it out as far as I could and spun it and did it the hard way, with valve body halfway in transmission. Other videos say remove the E-clip that holds the rod to valve body.
no way you can get it backwards, the center screw is slightly off-center. the only wiring issue on the OD sol. was to snip the 2 zipties(careful here) and unhook the main module in the center which has a pretty small catch clip. bolt the new one on, hook it up, put the master sol? back on, filter, pan, fluid,... Thanks again for posting this video--saved me a bunch of hassle!!
Hello, Have a 95 jeep Grand Cherokee with the 42RE trans. While drive on the interstate,the trans shift down like passing gear, and sometimes when slowing down shift by itself. I have watched a few of your videos,and have ordered the master solenoid kit, do you think replacing every solenoid in the pan will solve this problem?
yes all of the electrical can be replaced with the transmission in the truck also the valve body does not have to be removed the repair does require removal of the transmission pan , and filter as shown
Im replacing my master sol while transmission is still in the truck. Im having issues at 1:40 taking the part off of the top side of the transmission. I have an extra part there and im not really sure how to remove it.
I've got this job ahead of me. Any horror stories from not dropping the valve body and using the existing wiring. Just swapping out the solenoid itself and connecting the old connectors to it? Thanks for posting this.
could be low line pressure or front band issue. Feel free to email me through our site with more info - is the check engine light on ? Also be aware to fill the unit it must be running in Neutral if the unit is low on fluid they can have all kinds of adverse reactions
hey sir.. I have code 16 on my '95 jeep grand cherokee laredo 4.0l with 42re transmission. I can't seem to figure out where the Transmission Temperature Sensor is.
Hey buddy I was wondering if you could help me out my Jeep feels like its starting in 2nd or 3rd gear once I get past that its fine on the freeway and what not but I just purchased the master so annoyed but after doing a lot of research I'm thinking that it just might be the governor pressure sensor and solenoid with this malfunction also happen if the master solinoid was malfunctioning from the information I'm gathering in my research it seems to be more likely it's the governor pressure sensor and solenoid what do you think any help would be greatly appreciated
yes i did buy it though cascade and the shift kit was the one that was recomended not the transgo. it did not seem to click when it was installed should i go back and recheck it
In your video you mentioned there are no check balls in this trans. When I dropped my oil pan I found a ball bearing or check ball.The reason I'm dropping this is I have no reverse.Overdrive was just rebuilt and the OD snap ring that usually breaks causing no reverse is still good. any thoughts on what direction I should go from here? Thanks
Hello , If you plate has blown off , we now stock remanufactured valve bodies for these. We can also go through yours , and recondition it if needed. We don't have a video published yet , but we have footage that should be uploaded in this week that should be helpful.
yes , i can't call it a horror story but just had one yesterday customer attempted splicing them in , and had to purchase another harness * it isn't quite as straight forward as it should be (keep in mind wires are in fluid) please see our other video to drop the 3-4 accum housing down they may seem a bit overwhelming , but we will help anyway we can.
Very helpful, my 2002 Dodge Dorango wants to take off in 2nd gear, I replaced the pressure sensor and and cylinoid and still have the same problem. Need help, What's wrong?
Where was the pigtail of the solenoid plugged in at ? Do you have to pull the valve body to get to it ? The answer will determine weather I tackle the replacement or send my truck out to be fixed ? If I fix it how long do it take to get your parts to me in Wheeling WV ?
Initially in 2009 AMCO said they were having problems getting a good rebuilt valve body specific to my truck, tied up the truck for 3 weeks, replaced it twice. One mechanic at AAMCO says my problem is in the valve body & good luck getting one that will work & not too worn out, the other mechanic says no, it's electrical. When I unplug the break switch & the lockup stops does this tell you it could still be valve body?
So if I'm replacing the overdrive and lock up solenoid harness do I need to pull the valve body or can I just remove the 3-4 accumulator housing to pull that harness down? Your kits are awesome by the way, and vert well priced.
i also would like to know this, i guess I'm about to find out this afternoon... this video from CascadeTransParts says its doable ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-D-ctMbta0-I.html
for anyone else wondering, the answer is YES, it can be replaced *without* removing the valve body. last night i used this video combined with the other cascade trans video that i linked to replace all of the solenoids :) unfortunately, it did not fix my problem, my torque converter must be starting to slip :(
@Skippy585 some of the performance companies offer ratio conversions , but not anything we are familiar with - check out Transmission Specialties in PA
well the late 47RE valve bodies work fine , but only from 02/03 models which contain the push in mlps design. Most of them are not anodized like the regular 48RE ones. was there a shift kit installed if so whos went in it. Also if a replacement valve body went in it do you have the original ? please feel free to email me through our site for additional info
Watched the video and installed the full kit, no issues, but my 44RE is doing same thing: Over 45mph with the O/D engaged, the tcc is unlocking (I think) and the engine goes from 2000 RPM to sometimes only 2200 or so, but sometimes it jumps all the way to 3100 and will stay there for a while, then drop back to O/D, back and forth like this. You mentioned you have the external wiring harness - maybe this is it? Or do you have another suggestion? Already did TPS, didn't fix it.
Can I replace the parking rod without taking the valve body out put the transmission? I have the od unit removed already and the old parking rod is broke. 04 jeep 42re
If you can advise on which transmission you have i can comment further. This design is primarily only on 1996 and newer models please direct additional email questions through our site
my dodge durango 98 ran a code P0743 torque clutch converter circuit electrical and i have a very hard time trying to replace the overdrive lock up solenoid this video is very helpful but i cant seem to get the manual lever valve body off from underneath do i have to drop my transmission out to replace the TCC solenoid?
if the check engine light is not on , more than likely a mechanical issue have you done a band adjustment ? please feel free to email me further through our website
When the valve body is removed, the transmission has an accumulator and spring, below the servo and governor. When I removed my valve body, that spring found a new home and I have been unable to find it. Do you sell just the spring? Do you have a billet accumulator and spring kit? (I have the gov., servo, etc kit from you already).
my husband and I received this kit today and my husband replaced the trans and gov. he said the elect connecter for the new gov did not want to lock the factory wire harness, perhaps two different types of connectors. trans still slipping bad
I have a 46RE in a 98 jeep 5.9 grand cherokee. I have a transgo reprogrammer on a rebuilt trans from jasper. It drove fine an then after a day on the trail (the jeep is a rock crawler) I now don't have drive or second (it netruels out) and if I put it in 1st it goes in reverse. Any ideas?
Hi my 2002 dodge ram 3500 dually is shifting I an out of gear at 3rd an 4th in other words 30mph an when it shifts the last gear at 40mph it's driving me crazy please let me no if u have any suggestions thanks.
2004 3.7 liter. went into limp mode. retrieved code p0734 and p0846. saved ff data as well. fluid good, cleared codes and now is working good, suspect a pressure sensor, not experienced with jeep, 25 years of mazda/ford product. any info helpful thx
I have a question. Im trying to take out my od unit. Do i need to take off the pan and remove the shift rod from the valve body before removing the od unit. Does the park rod come out with the od unit. I have a 42re 2wd version.
Hello if purchased from us email us through our site: which shift kit did you use ? we are seeing some odd symptoms from the new solenoid not being seated all the way into the governor solenoid housing. It should click / snap into place.
i did the solenoid and the skift kit. it sifts hard but a little late also when i first start driving and i come to a stop the trans will stall the truck but after a minute or two it will not want to stall. this happens in reverse also. the trans fluid seems dirty i used new fluid after the upgrade
I recently bought a used 42re and when I pulled out the 3-4 accumulator spring there was 3 stainless steel washers between the spring and the piston. Is there any reason you can think of that someone would have done this?
I have a 98 Cherokee Classic 4x4 scanner says my shift sensors are bad. Only problem is it won't downshift into low/1st gear unless I manually do it. Do I need to replace all 3 sensors or just the 1? Do you have a vid of that operation? How do I tell if all 3 need replacement? It kept going from ok to not shifting & the chk eng light would cycle with ok or not. Once I've manually shited it everything works ok, just won't downshift to low. Suggestions? BTW excellent vids that I've watched. Thanks, bosavi - Veritas Et Libertas @BobSavi9
That sounds more like a governor pressure sensor. But if it's a shift solenoid, it'd be first gear only. The other 2 control the other two gears. However, if it were me, I would replace all 3, because you know the other 2 aren't too god awful far behind it, and on top of that, you dump $80 of transmission fluid, filter and gasket every time you change one. Wouldn't be worth the headache, time and money to me. Could probably get the solenoids alone for the 2 fluid changes you'd have to do.
at 9:40 mark, right before putting the park rod on, you cranked something near the detent. What did you do? Also, where is the lockup spring and boost spring retainer?
I have a question for ya. I have a 04 48re and had it rebuilt and i suspect they installed a 47re valve body because the trans does not lock the torque converter now. What is the effect of installing a 47re valve body in a 48re? thanks.
@929rrdan Hello - the park rod will only go back into the overdrive so far ; on the detent arm you want to keep it in the same position it was when it came out. If installing a master solenoid service kit you can also install harness without removing the valve body , we are working on a supplemental video for this (would save 30 minutes off the repair)
@choper1317 Hello if it is doing this every time you are driving at the higher speed i would guess it's a TTVA , see our other vids , we show where it is , and how to install - we are starting the see alot of the go bad. Email me direct if you need a link to buy one
Hi i have a 02 jeep cherokee 4.7 v8 with the 45re transmission, my jeep is shifting hard into third when its been warmed up, Ive changed the fluid, filter pressure sensor and speed sensor and its still shifting hard, i was told the accumulator plate brake or gets bend and is whats causing my issue. If you have answer or a video of what i need to change please let me know. Thank you
Hello- typically if the park rod is sticking the vehicle may be on a slight incline ; try to get to flat ground. If you have to work a slight there may be a load (resistance) to the parking pawl , or rod Sorry we don't have staffed phone lines , but welcome questions directly through our website
no full rebuild videos, but they do have the Rebuild Book & Special Overdrive Tool Kit - It contains everything needed to repair & rebuild www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/42re44reatsgtechnicalmanual.aspx www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/cascadeodcompressiontoolkit.aspx
Hey I have a Jeep Cherokee Laredo 1990. Is this kind of the same process for the 4x4 jeeps? Thank you in advance. Hope you can have the chance to answer me.
For the love of GOD I cannot get the park rod with the valve body back in!!! Old rod had the tip break off sp no park. Put the new one on and I've tried for hours to slide it back in to no avail....
Hello - we stock the correct valve body for it ; on our site see our part # 22740-6 i'm not sure what the exact issue is they are having with the unit. Sounds a bit like a possible incompetent builder. If the issues have occurred since the rebuild i would think they would be somewhat on the hook.
Hello Mike - we have had a few instances like this ; it most likely is where the solenoid seats into the pressure housing it needs to snap into place then slide the heat shield to lock it in. I welcome further questions - feel free to email me via our site - Robert
