That's all my damn car / crossover does is shift funky. Why , I ask , do I need to teach this thing to function properly?****Executed , the procesure. Feels better , more "engaged " and less sloppy. If it sticks , this may have literally kept me from selling this thing (18 CX5 GT ) to Carvana , and getting a Rav4 or Highlander. So , thanks for the guidance, feel much better about things.
I was under the impression that it was on-demand, but if I understand correctly, the rear wheels are always engaged but the amount of power being sent to the rear varies?
There is a lot of bad info floating around online about it being an on-demand system. You do understand correctly, it sends an amount of power almost always to the rear and it varies quite a lot on the amount.
This worked like a charm. I tried so many solutions to fix this issue and almost gave in to Mazda "declaring" my transmission faulty. This solution worked like a breeze, and my car is driving like new again. This was a godsend! Thank you so much.
I just did this procedure, it was very scary when it started to switch the gears, it was like someone was punching the transmission with a hammer. Hopefully i will get rid of the jerks
I followed the steps on my Mazda 6 2017 GT and I think it worked BUT when the idle raises on it's own i kept holding the brake along with the manual upshift, the i heared you saying don't hold it, so does it pass or failed? as when i tried to do it again it won't learn ! please confirm if it learned recently won't learn again ?
Hello, I’ve been having an issues where it clunks from r to d. Also sometimes when coming to a stop, is it fair to suspect the transmission itself is at fault car is a 17 with 78k miles
Did it on my 2019 CX5 Turbo, made a little run on the highway, came back, did everything, got it the first time, then did a short drive and noticed improvement while doing stop and pedals feel more responsive (before, it was like I was towing something)... can wait to see if it will get rid of the "weird" acceleration I had ! Thanks a lot ! Been complaining to my dealers for a longtime and "everything was fined each time (charging me for the check-up).
Update: after again having jerking issues with my transmission(perceived as a slip going when shifting away from 1st gear and a harsh hammer-like engagement as it goes into 2nd gear) I sent my car back to Mazda. They kept my car for over a week and did some programming on the car which makes the shifts appear to have totally different mapping. Either way, this programming video no longer works after they worked on my car.
I've yet to see if this has made a positive improvement or really any change at all but i was seriously doubting the validity of this series of steps. Well it took probably 5 tries but it did in fact do the calibration. My leg is sore from how hard I was pushing.
I just picked up a 2019 Mazda 3 with 30k miles a couple weeks ago. Every car I've owned before had a CVT Transmission (with issues) and it took some getting used to driving the new car. At first, I was too used to being very gentle with the gas pedal, as if I pressed hard on the gas in my old car the transmission would lose power, but I've found that my Mazda seems to prefer me to put a little more pressure on the gas. It seems to jerk when it shifts if I'm too gentle, but it drives super smooth when I drive a little more "aggressive" than I would in my old car.
Does this lockup process happen with every shift (auto mode) or just in 1st? I'm noticing the same rpm behavior (up and down after shifting) with most shifts. Maybe it depends on how hard or easy I'm pushing the throttle. I don't feel any jerkyness. It shifts smoothly. I'm mainly wondering if it's normal to have this happening even in other gears?
Hey man I did this and it all worked except one thing when the rpms of the engine raised I did not keep the shifter at the manual position I had it pushed up in down shift the whole time while the rpms were raised then they went down and I shut off the engine. Should I redo this and keep the shifter at the manual while engine rpms are raised up?
basically what happened at 3:15 in the video was same thing that happened for me so i Know i did it correctly but i kept it at manual downshift the whole time when I should have let go and kept it at regular manual. Should I just redo this ?
Had a 2023 cx-5 premium, ony had 11k miles. started feeling hesitation of shifting of some sort. tried this, twice i was able to get it right. Oh boy, shifting is back to its glory. sooo smooth again..
I have a question out of curiosity. Does the torque converter clutch stay locked while shifting gears? Or does the clutch open quickly, an upshift is made and then the clutch locks again?
It usually stays locked to some extent, I've never observed it fully unlocking during a shift either up or down. I'm working on another few videos, and one of them involves a more in-depth observation of TCC function.
This worked perfectly on my 2017 Mazda 6. I changed my fluid and filter at 100k and it started shifting hard. After following this video it shifts smooth as silk. Thanks
I appreciate all these videos you make about these cars and the knowledge you have on these transmissions. Hope you can help me out with an issue I'm having with mine. It's a 2016 Mazda3 2.0L AT, iSport trim, Mexico built. Right after I bought it at around 77k miles I noticed it would sometimes jerk or 'jolt' when it upshifted from 2-3 and would often hard shift from 4-5. It wasn't every time but it was pretty consistent. It then slowly started to develop a long delay going from R->D after the car sat for a few hours, as well as a slowww 1-2 shift on hard acceleration, where it would just stop accelerating for 1-2 seconds. I did a fluid change, initial learn procedure probably a dozen times, and even got my TCM reflashed at the dealer and nothing was working. It seemed to be getting worse with mileage too. I complained to my dealer and got a new unit installed under warranty at 90k miles. I thought all would be good and fine but unfortunately not. Now I'm over 100k miles and I still notice the occasional jolt from 2-3 gear, mostly when the car is cold or after I've been driving for a few hours (I drive a lot throughout the day), as well as the hard shift from 4-5 gear. The 2-3 shift tends to just jerk me forward in my seat a bit, but the 4-5 shift can be downright violent, like something just hit the bottom of the car. I can feel it in the seat and in the gas pedal, like a hard vibration. I also notice a lot of jerkiness in general when moving on and off the throttle, and aggressive driving usually gets the car to act up pretty quick. The transmission is new, it has like 8,000 miles on it and I've performed the initial learning on it a few times, and it's temporarily fixed it, but it's always came back after a few dozen miles. I'm curious what could be causing this?? Is my new unit bad too? Does my TCM need to be reflashed again? Is it something like a transmission mount? I don't understand.
You have saved me so much money! I was about to have to go have it checked out when I decided to check if anyone else was having issues. Worked the first try and it's like a brand new CX5! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Adding another THANK YOU! Worked first time perfectly on my 2020 Mazda 6 Touring (75K miles). It had some jerking and weird shifting issues, but nothing that was "this is broken". This was a great fix that helped the reliability and longevity of my transmission. Thank you!
Do I need to check transmission fluid level or anything before attempting this? Is there any chance doing this could make the car drive worse? Just trying to be careful 😅
This completely fixed my problem on the first try. I have a 2017 CX-2 that just hit 50k miles. It was absolutely slamming in and out of 3rd gear and it's been getting worse over the past 4000 miles or so. I brought it to a local "Expert" and he said he checked all fluid pressures and the solenoids and they are fine. He verified the problem that it was shifting horribly. He said he reset the software in case that was the problem but nothing worked so he recommended a Valve Body replacement for $2458.40 plus tax. He charged me $153.19 for the diagnostic but was willing to knock that off the price if I got the recommended service. I was sick to my stomach. Finally I did enough research to find this absolute GEM of a video. Clearly the local guy did not do anything with the software that he claimed but I have no problem paying for the diagnostic/time but wow, really? Anyway, thank you a million times over sir! I just hope there is no damage done during the time it was banging in and out of 3rd gear. It felt like brand new on the test drive so I'm hoping for the best. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I have to reply to my own post as I get more angry about the local guy recommending a new valve body for $2500. I'll bet he was going to do me a favor and dispose of the "broken" transmission for free! How much could he make on that transmission in great shape? Probably another $2500. He could have made $5000 total. I shouldn't assume the worst. Hopefully he is completely innocent and just REALLY bad at his job.
I have a 2015 Mazda 6, NA 2.5L on a full custom 91 octane tune. The vehicle has 313,000KM on it. Fully maintained transmission in overall excellent condition. I recently tried this reset for the first time in the vehicles life. The shifts felt firm for the first 5 minutes of driving, and the shift points shuffled around slightly. 10 minutes later, I could hardly tell any difference. It's incredible to see how well this transmission is holding up since new. Change your filter/fluid every 60-80,000KM and its highly unlikely you'll ever have any issues with yours (Assuming no factory defects and abusive driving)
Man I can’t thank you enough for sharing this video. I have a Mazda 3 touring 2017 and right after getting only the transmission oil changed the car was jerking. Followed the steps and wala the problem is fixed. Thank you so much. The car is running at 216k 😂
Is that in miles or KM? You should drop the pan to have the bottom of it cleaned out and the strainer (Filter) replaced. fluid change likely caused some fine metal shavings to get stuck somewhere. Problem could come back .
@@pikachupowers it’s KM, and since the problem is fixed I’m hesitant in getting it cleaned all the way. But I guess you’re right, I should get it cleaned all the way. The car is driving like charms.
Got any tips for someone struggling to mate an engine and trans? Rebuilt block with new head after cracking my original head (failed T-stat) and the crank spins, the torque converter spins, but i put them together, and its locked. 10 days of trying, no luck. Both are pulled from the car at the moment for another attempt outside of the car.
My daughter's Mazda cx5 had a P0761 code ( Shift Solenoid C performance stuck off). Changed all the solenoids and wire harness and pumped in new ATF. The gears would not work and still gives the same code. What could be the problem?
Nice video! I know someone that hassa maz/ 3 with skyactive , & its more in towns, someimes starting off , you cant get on it, my comparison, the car jerks, like ol days ,when a universal.joint is bad onna drive shaft feeling..Shuddering / bucking, I thought, beings it was in / M patern, on the tranny, i told the person maybe it has another setting , to start ,like a automatic wiith overdrive.. You only use overdrive, when your onna interstate highway , if you use it round town, just keep it in, Drive, The overdrive, same bucking feeling happens... Thanx for ur video!
