Welcome to my channel! I would say it has a theme, but it's mainly just whatever I happen to be tinkering with at the time. It's low budget, low tech, and just reflects my interests and experiences over the last 15+ years of messing with this stuff. I did it for a living for a few years in my early 20s but since 2014 have just been a hobbyist. I once published an article on terminal ballistics, but that was way back in 2010. I hope you viewers enjoy watching it as much as I enjoy filming it and that together we can broaden our knowledge and have fun in the process. Thanks!
Main problem with this video is that sight pin and rear sight should be removed FROM THE RIGHT and installed from the left. Part of the difficulty with the rear is just that, and starting the pin from the left because the hole is bigger should have been a clue. Almost all gunsmithing pins follow that rule..
The hole is bigger on the left because it is countersunk as a guide. The roll pin is not tapered. Allowing the pin to pass through instead of backing it out the opposite direction of installation is correct in this instance as it limits risk of cosmetic damage from a punch slipping. In regards to the rear sight, I actually mention in the video there was no measurable difference in the dovetail itself (and the presence of a screw for securing it after drifting windage adjustments suggests there wouldn’t be) but that the original rear sight appeared to have a tapered leading edge on the left which is evidence it had been drifted in at the factory from the right. I chose to act based on available evidence rather than an “almost all rule”. I don’t recall any difficulty with the rear, and don’t see any difficulty with the rear rewatching the video. I chose to not do any fitting on the rear sight because I was able to get it started a bit by hand, and wanted the fit to be quite snug so it isn’t bumped when carried. In my opinion, the video is accurate in showing the correct way to work on *this* revolver.
I got the exact same one. I believe the factory trijicon sights are a pretty rare. My dad was issued it in 1993 and he carried it 5-6 days a week for 26 years till the department forced him to turn it in and issued him a Glock. But his department had a program to buy old service weapons so i got him to buy it for me for $300 Plus transfer. I even have the box it came in when they issued it to him 31 years ago.
It recycles. There is a basic filter in the pump that removes some particulate. For a casual user there’s probably no need to ever replace it, just top it off periodically so the pump doesn’t run dry. Even in a professional setting where we were cleaning maybe a dozen or more pistols per day using this system we only changed the spirits out rarely when it was looking really dark.
I love what Colt did on them both with aesthetics, and the design/build. It’s a beautiful revolver but they built it in such a way it can actually be serviced without using black magic from woodland elves in the back room of the Colt factory, and they managed to do it at a price point that, while definitely still being a luxury revolver, isn’t completely out of reach of willing buyers. It’s a reintroduction done right.
Pro tip: If you can't get the adhesive off, dab some hydrogen peroxide on the adhesive for 5-10 min then push all of it off with your thumb, it'll clump together (don't bother scraping with a razor, you'll tear up the muff)
Good tip. I didn’t bother with it, but it would probably give more thorough adhesion. I use these as semi-disposable loaners so didn’t invest much effort, but that is an excellent piece of advice for folks using these as their primary hearing protection. Thanks for the tip and helping us keep our hearing safer.
19-3 predates the changes to the gas ring that necessitated extra thinning of the forcing cone. Of course, all the old type K-frames have relatively weak forcing cones compared to modern revolvers, but 158gr .357Mag at a factory velocity of 1250-1300fps shouldn’t cause any unreasonable amount of extra wear. Of course, a revolver is a mechanical device and it eventually will wear out. More energy imparted on the forcing cone uses up more of its life. If you shoot that magnum load exclusively, it will wear out faster than if you shot a modest .38 Special load, whether the limiting factor is the forcing cone or eventually frame stretch. So the answer is “yes”, but with the understanding that doesn’t mean it will never wear out, or that higher energy loads don’t use up more of its available “life”. I hope that isn’t too vague or noncommittal and answers your question.
@@ColterBrog so the 357 i have should be fine I've maybe 12 rounds of 357 out of it it's a 6inch and it was made in 1970 i just wanted to know if it wasn't worth risking with that 158 grain 357mag republic ammo i have to just stick to like 900fps and under 38spl has i have a 28-2 highway patrolman with a 6inch barrel and a no dash 586 4inch and a ruger security six in 4 inch and a new python in 4 inch for 357mag instead of the 19-3 i have the 15-3 for 38 and off topic you might know i have a 29-6 in 6inch is 240 grain 1300fps maybe a little lower 1275 or something 44mags safe in that I'm not sure if it has the endurance package or not btw thanks for the reply
@@yugisslifer8359I guess the best way to answer this is telling you what I do, since three of the revolvers in this video belong to me. The 66 I shot .357 Magnum from, including 125 grain, when it was my only .357 Magnum and I also wasn’t fully aware of the forcing cone weakness of the older K-frames. Now, I mostly only shoot .38 Special from it. Typically 158 grain plated wadcutters I load myself. I would shoot 158 grain Magnums from it, though, if I felt the need. My 19, the 4” blued one, is in exceptional condition (separate video on it specifically), and I don’t shoot it. There’s just no reason for me to when I have a well-worn Model 66 that shoots perfectly fine if I want to shoot a S&W. I use the used one and keep the nice one nice, if that makes sense. Preserving it for posterity. The new Python, I’ll shoot anything through it. It has a thick concentric forcing cone, a bulkier cylinder to accommodate that full forcing cone profile, a thicker top strap to reduce frame stretching, the advantage of decades of advancement in metallurgy, and it isn’t a collectible as it is currently being manufactured. It’s also, in my opinion, easier to strip down for cleaning if I do shoot it a lot and it becomes fouled. If you have newer revolvers designed from the ground up to be .357 Magnums (686, Python, etc.) I would shoot Magnums through those. At the end of the day the 19/66 are K-frame “Model 10” type revolvers that were adapted to be Magnums after the fact when that frame was always intended to be .38 Special. It’s just the nature of what they are.
@@ColterBrog ok thank's i think ill manly stick to 38s in the 19 and shoot 357 in my 586 python and highway patrolman ill still probably shoot 357 in it rarely but i might not shoot it much at all its pretty close to 90% or better idk if it even has a cylinder ring on it
Sticking your finger with a sliver of metal is an important part of the bonding process between you and your pistol. It’s a good thing. And dolled up with Wilson internals, I’m sure it’s awesome now. I definitely think their slide and frame are nice, especially for the bargain it represents.
That’s the concerning thing actually- no. It was not noticeable. I only discovered it was broken because I went to the range and the pistol wouldn’t fire. No visible or handling differences. Loaded normally. After field stripping it and depressing the firing pin block, I discovered the firing pin was jammed. No movement when pushing forward and it wasn’t resetting back to the rearmost position to be presented for a strike. Stripping the slide revealed pieces of the roll pin had broken off and jammed the firing pin. The only thing that does give some reassurance is that if you know this can be an issue you can easily check the firing pin for proper movement during a field strip for routine cleaning and inspection, or can clear the pistol and dry firing it vertically with a BIC pen or a pencil down the barrel to see that the firing pin strikes it and causes it to jump or pop out of the barrel to verify function. So, in short, it *can* be observed, but you actually do have to inspect for it. It isn’t obvious through normal handling.
It’s a good question, but unfortunately I cannot answer it with confidence. Based on conversations I’ve had with other owners who have disassembled their pistols, Colt has not been consistent throughout the production as far as which parts are or aren’t MIM. It does use MIM for various components, particularly small parts. The cylinder stop/bolt, cylinder latch, transfer bar, etc. are MIM on mine. In my opinion Colt has made intelligent use of MIM by using it on parts well-suited to that manufacturing technique, and the process itself is done well. They show no signs of shrinkage and excellent dimensional stability. It’s MIM done right, and in the right applications.
It doesn't make sense to be saying to only shoot .357s every now and then, because it's metal that can either take it or not. Its not organic living tissue that can recover from bruising or fatigue. Does that make sense?
Not really. Your forcing cone is basically… think of it is a rubber tube. Rubber is elastic, but so is steel. Every time a bullet impacts the forcing cone it stretches the forcing cone. Steel is elastic, though, so it returns to its shape. The forcing cones being discussed on these K-frames are thinner at one spot, so the thinner portion stretches more than the rest. So if you slice off part of that rubber tube, and you push a ball bearing slightly bigger than the tube down through it and out the other end. It can do that. Probably quite a few times. Eventually it stretches and returns too many times, becomes fatigued, and it splits at that thinner portion because it inevitably stretched more in that spot. You’re thinking of the forcing cone and barrel as some immovable object probably because you’re thinking of steel being very sturdy. Steel stretches. When a train drives over a steel bridge, the bridge has deflection. The springs in a vehicle’s suspension undergo elastic deformation with every bump in the road. They eventually wear out, and/or develop stress fractures. So while the steel is not “living tissue” it is an elastic material.
@@ColterBrog I'm aware of all of the properties that pertain to materials. What I meant was that if the design is inferior, then the material will not survive. So saying not to use something too often in that context is silly. Would you fly on a jet that's not recommended for flying in too much humidity because the turbine blades just might start stretching and cracking? I wouldn't go anywhere near the thing! And to my argument, that discussion will never happen. When a material is chosen for a specific purpose, it shouldn't be scaled by arbitrary frequency when shortcomings arise. In this case we have a design oversight that should have caused a recall because of the potential danger, mechanical failure, and loss of investment that ensued. It can either take it, or not.
@@jacksutherland846I don’t think I understand the point you’re trying to make. A concentric forcing cone is ideal because it distributes the elastic deformation more evenly. On older non-sleeved 19s and 66s, they all have a shaved forcing cone, as do the old Model 10s which are .38 Special only. This is an inherent weakness of the way S&W built them. They fatigue sooner when paired with high velocity projectiles which strike the weaker forcing cone with a lot of energy. All impacts create some amount of fatigue because they all cause elastic deformation. It comes down to design intent. The K frames were envisioned as mostly shooting .38 Special in training, with relatively limited duty use of .357 Magnum. They are a .38 Special design, with allowances for accommodating limited use of .357 Magnum. It causes additional fatigue and risk of failure. An e fine can run at red line, but it doesn’t mean you should just under-shift and drive down the road bouncing off the rev limiter and expect no additional wear of chance of failure.
@@ColterBrog In a nutshell, they hastily stamped .357 magnum on the guns only to see them fail, and suggesting limiting the use of the prescribed caliber ammunition is not a good solution to this issue IMHO. It just seems ridiculous to me. That's all I'm saying. The model 29 .44 magnum had similar problems. They have all been corrected by now with thicker barrels, and longer funneling or whatever else. All of the other caliber forcing cones haven't seen these problems. What should be advised is to become aware of these models in question, and avoid them because they are fundamentally flawed and there's no getting around it, unless one is happy to arbitrarily limit the use of the ammunition it was intended for.
@@jacksutherland846Okay. That’s a way to look at it, I guess. I mostly shoot .38 Special 158gr wadcutter in a bunny fart load. I’ll happily buy these well made but under-designed revolvers any day. They’re fantastic pieces of craftsmanship that function great in their originally intended role of mostly firing .38 Special. I think you’re associating some malice with this on the part of S&W that doesn’t really exist. Law Enforcement wanted a compact and light revolver that mostly would be used with .38 Special in training and would occasionally see some .357 Magnum use. That’s what was delivered.
Nothing you purchase today can be taken at face value. This goes far beyond tools. Brand names are bought and sold every day so even a name you trusted last month can't be depended on to be the same this month.
Absolutely true, and as these buyouts happen the new owners are seemingly happy to use that brand reputation to sell lower quality and maximize profits for a time.
I just purchased a new Colt Python Combat Elite. The first time I shot it, it experienced a failure in single action mode. The revolver is locking up in single action mode. When you cock the hammer back, it intermittently locks up and you are unable to pull the trigger or manipulate the hammer. Both the hammer and the trigger are locked up, continued manipulation of both the hammer and trigger doesn’t help unlock it sometimes you can get it to unlock and sometimes the trigger will function firing a live round. It will be on the way back to Colt this week. Very disappointed in Colt’s quality control. Do you have any idea what could be causing the lock up? I couldn’t seem to duplicate the problem when the gun is unloaded. But it occurred several times while I was shooting it both with 38 special and 357 factory new ammunition. I did take a video of the lock-up failure.
Hard to say without looking at it. Something definitely sounds like it’s out of spec or there is some foreign item inside the lockwork. I’m sure Colt can figure it out.
Have you done any experimentation to determine the minimum trigger pull weight before affecting primer strike reliability? Does it seem like about a half pound per half turn on the barrel nut? Thank you.
I guess you could say I have, but not to the extent of actually finding light strikes. I did unscrew it some, tried it out. The pull was lighter than I prefer so I turned it back in to increase tension. That said, I treat this as a target pistol and tend to keep it meticulously clean and lubricated. I’m also using common commercial ammunition with normal primers. I think you get to a point where the trigger pull is undesirably light before you run into ignition problems. At least, that was my experience. I will also say I tend to prefer a trigger that is crisp, but not particularly light. Maybe I just don’t have much finesse in my finger from years of banging out rounds with a stock Glock trigger, but some of the “race gun” triggers I find annoying to use they’re so light. YMMV
@@ColterBrog thanks to your video, I backed it off a full turn which put it flush with the mainspring rod. No noticeable difference in pull weight. It was very easy to do thanks to your vid. After finding that website that I mentioned, I’m very curious to experiment with sear engagement, but not enough to mess around at this point. Mine is a very crisp 2 3/4 - 3 pound pull which 90% of that is in the first stage, which is why I don’t think it made much difference when I backed the nut off.
I really appreciate your meticulous care that you have for your pistol. Great attention to detail as well. Thank you. Did you learn this on your own while disassembling or did you follow a book?
Thanks. I’ve always been a bit of a tinkerer, and have taken apart a lot of different firearms. In general, once you learn the few common configurations, almost all disassemble in fairly similar ways. For the P210 it’s fairly simple so I just followed a process that seemed logical to me.
@@ColterBrog I am really curious to know more about the hammer box. Particularly, the the “wall” adjustment. It’s hard for me to visualize how that works. It seems like it would be difficult to adjust correctly if it ever slipped as others have mentioned here and elsewhere on the web without significant trial and error and multiple tear downs. I am also curious if you know any sites that give more detail on this, and do you know of any sites that detail polishing friction points. Of course mine is already amazingly smooth and a 2.5# trigger, I just like to know as much as I can about this fine pistol. Thank you again.
@@Mr5150guyThere isn’t much information out there as far as I found. In messing with it myself, it seems like the factory adjustment is pretty much perfect. Anything I tweaked seemed to make it less optimal in some way. And you’re absolutely right that it involves significant trial and error. I wouldn’t mess with it, and based on how it is pressed together I’m not sure it’s intended to ever be disassembled. The pins are extremely tight. If you want to do anything, I’d just put a high quality gun grease on the engagement surfaces, and if you want to play with the weight without affecting the second stage wall just screwing the main spring barrel nut in and out will make some changes to main spring tension. If you adjust anything else I would definitely mark the parts with a pencil or fine permanent marker before doing anything so it is easy to restore the factory configuration, which is ultimately what I did. It really is set up well from the factory. In my opinion there isn’t much, if anything, to be gained by tweaking the adjustments.
@@ColterBrog that makes sense. I guess there’s a part of me that just wants to know how to make that wall adjustment if it ever does become loose like others have mentioned. Just my paranoia kicking in. seems like if something can happen. It will happen 😝. In the meantime, I’ll just enjoy it. The trigger is even better than I thought it could be, not that I’ve had access to many match grade pistols. There doesn’t even seem to be very many spare parts available. Midwestgunworks usually has just about everything you could possibly want for pistols, but not much for the 210. I was going to buy a hammer box just to experiment. No dice. Thanks again for your replies.
I have all USA SK. But you have to understand. The company that made that original wrench is out of business. And they never even chromed it. Unlike what is the cheaper one. That’s funny actually. But if SK didn’t use overseas manufacturing it to would be out of business like Western Forge and many others. Take notice the tool trucks are getting less and less. As people fill their snap on box with Icon and Tekton. Let’s hope greatstar can bring it.
That’s ultimately what it is- a Chinese buyout of a failed brand. SK didn’t weather the storm. I buy Irega wrenches now from Spain. It seems most of the quality brands are now sourcing from them, including SnapOn, Klein, Wright, and others.
Wouldn’t anything you build yourself be custom. Isn’t it short for customer specified. You get custom items from businesses. Anything you configure yourself is automatically custom.
Sure, but in the sense this is a Christmas gift for my dad and tailored specifically to his needs rather than just getting him something as it came off the shelf, I would say it is “custom”.
Even the “good” tools from China that are unique and not offered from other sources consistently disappoint me. I try to get US, Spain, Germany, Japan, and Taiwan tools. Fortunately there are a lot of good options on tools now, for people willing to do the research and spend the money.
Thanks. I misspoke a few times because even when you know the difference, and are actively explaining the difference on video, it’s still easy to get the terminology confused. Very similar concepts, trying to achieve the same end result of a safe revolver, but different ways of functioning.
I do have several other videos on this Python that explain more of the disassembly process, comparisons to other designs, and explanations of specifics parts. They might be interesting to you.
That probably in large part has to do with the large amount of freebore associated with using a shorter cartridge. A solution would be loading .357 casings with heavy projectiles and a lighter charge as a target load. Plated wadcutters would likely be an excellent choice for this since they’re comparatively soft.
Bought by Chinese lots of companies have gone that way then the Chinese make them cheap basically demolishing the American tool industry and people will say meh harbor freight is the same which it isn’t
One thing that I do like about Harbor Freight is they have developed their product quality more and shifted lots of their tools out of China. They offer a lot from Taiwan now, and the fact is some of my Taiwanese tools are among my favorites. I love my Tekton wrench rolls, and the GearWrench 120XP ratchet is definitely a favorite.
@@ColterBrog I’ve owned the 2020 Python, Colt King Cobra, S&W 29 Classic, and a S&W 500. Both manufacturers make great guns. I personally like the Smiths though because I know how to work on them. I’d like to add a S&W model 10 to the collection one day.
Thanks. They’re great revolvers. True American classics. I know you’re going to appreciate not only shooting it, but also the time period and craftsmanship it represents.
I searched this topic before I gutted mine and your video didnt come up..... soooo I sat in my truck and disassembled it all the way down to the pin that indexes and locks the outside of the cylinder. That particular assembly is a bugger to get back in. I shot the spring once and it almost went out the window😂, the second time it fell into the door panel ( I thought). For all the people that are timid keep in mind that if you don't fuck around, you don't find out. I did it much for the same reason most would, to see what Czlt did. I personally think it is solid AF and smooth as butter while being the most accurate pistol I have ever shot. The internals could use the slightest polishing and deburring. The trigger assembly is as refined as necessary but the hand, striker bar and handspring thingy ( not the main spring but the cast stainless one ) maybe its a tension bar. Other than that the internals are Gucci. I do have three issues with the pistol though. The front site is fat as hell. I would like a locking detente in the lug and the barrel is considered a permanent install. Notes to consider, speed loaders for the original Pythons rub the grips so heavily that it cab bind the loader or risk bending part of the crane or ejector rod. I milled a relief so that there is no binding and I rely on both loader hand tension and shooting hand cylinder indexing/locking. The only scare since I have had it was a small spring inside the hammer assembly got move out of position by careless handling while disassembled. It was out maybe a 64 and would try to bind the action up. Awsome video
Thanks for sharing. Your experience sounds like mine whenever I take something apart the first time. That sinking feeling when some unknown piece goes flying and enters low earth orbit. lol.
Great video! I've always been a Smith and wesson guy, and I've been inside plenty of them. Wanted to see inside the python before I think about buying one. This video was the ticket! Thanks.
That’s sort of why I did the video. I was actually shopping for a S&W which is more familiar to me, while also considering branching out into a Ruger… then I handled the Python and immediately fell in love with it. But… I couldn’t find more than a few very basic photographs depicting some aspects of the internals. I bought it anyway, but then couldn’t help myself. I just had to take a look under the hood. It’s a genius mechanism and I actually have another video explaining how it works and always has such a tight lockup. It’s actually kind of a crazy design.
SK was sold to a large Chinese company and they are being manufactured without the “made in USA“. my guess is that the Chinese company is producing those SK wrenches with bottom of the line shit quality control and planning to ride the SK name all the way into the ground by deliberately shortcutting the bottom line costs, but enjoying the SK reputation
Thanks. Just the information I was looking for. I am changing out gas keys and decided to buy new stripped bolt carriers, but in the future I want to know how to remove a gas key and you showed that very well. I am putting adjustable keys on over gassed uppers in 7.62x39. Reducing the amount of gas and recoil will likely result in longer life on the extractors.
Taking them off can definitely be a bit tricky depending on how severe the staking is. I understand why companies like it aggressive, because it satisfies the consumers’ desire for seeing a staked carrier… but they really do way more than is actually necessary. Fortunately they usually don’t need to ever be disassembled again so it’s normally not a problem.
It’s because the springs on the guide rod can’t be changed. The stiffer springs compensate for softening of those springs over time. The system is rated for 45,000 rounds.
My 92FS is also a Police Special. I've since replaced the polymer guide rod with a fluted steel one. I'm thinking of swapping out the grips too. and perhaps the trigger spring. I don't mind the heavy double action trigger pull (being left-handed but shoot right-handed-- gotta love cross eye dominance). It's abit large for me to carry concealed, but still a reliable pistol.
This is precisely why I now, when searching for tools I need or don't have, look only for vintage tools made pre-1980's by any of the old made in USA or West Germany brands.
Not a bad strategy, but there are still excellent tools made now. The difference is they are sometimes from brands unfamiliar and from places unexpected. I actually have come to really like my adjustable wrenches made by Irega in Spain. I was loyal to the US-made Proto adjustables for years, but these Irega ones I might actually prefer now. The handle is a bit wider so it is more comfortable to my palm when using a lot of force. Even Snap-On is having their adjustables made in Spain. My go-to ratchet is a GearWrench 120XP from Taiwan. The small head, fine ratcheting mechanism, minimal back drag, easy servicing, strength of the mechanism, and intuitive direction changes make it a real winner. There’s no ratchet I’d rather use. Basically the entire lineup of Knipex out of Germany is high quality. Great pliers. Their miniature bolt cutters are very handy, also. The Engineer screw extraction pliers from Japan are a sort of niche tool, but they come in handy. Klein hand tools are mostly made in the US still and work well. Some of the Klein tools are now sourced from Germany, Spain, or Taiwan, but the quality is excellent. There are good tools out there but it just takes some investigation and sometimes being willing to pay a pretty penny.
Wow…I wasn’t expecting those kind of results!!! I’m getting ready to sort out a metric butt load of 9mm, not for accuracy reasons but to isolate crimped cases and then store them by manufacturer. Do you have a good source for info on the various cartridge head-stamps??? I’ll also be sorting other pistol calibers as well as rifle cartridges. Thanks for the great video and I appreciate any feedback you can provide.
I don’t really have much of a source. You’ll mostly see the same half a dozen or so headstamps over and over again with just some rare outliers and those common ones are either readily identifiable or can quickly be Googled. Federal, CCI, and Winchester usually make up the bulk of what I pick up since that’s what’s commonly sold. You see some PMC, Fiocchi, S&B, and CBC pretty often. PPU is more prevalent it seems where there are Academy sporting goods stores since that’s their house brand sold as Monarch. One thing to consider is that sorting the brass for the purpose of isolating crimped cases, then swaging or reaming them, might be more time consuming than simply treating all cases as if they are crimped. Basically if you’re going to have a piece of brass in your hand anyway, you might as well be feeding it into a swager during that handling. That’s of course going to vary depending on your preferences, but I decap, swage, clean, and then it gets dried on a very low oven temperature and put into a bin ready for loading. Just doing this stuff on a bulk scale helps with efficiency.
@@ColterBrog Currently my process is first to clean without pins (Dawn & lemishine) Deprime on a Lee APP, swage with a Franklin Armory swager, clean & uniform primer pockets and clean flash hole on a Lyman case center . After this, I’ll clean with pins, Armor All wash and wax and Lemi shine then off to the Franklin Armory case dryer after a thorough rinsing. I’m searching for a compendium of case head data in a PDF format with pictures of the various types as made by the manufacturer. I had one years ago but the file disappeared. Thanks for your response
Well done sir. Can you theory craft on how to protect the top strap from flame cutting? I have a 460s&w magnum i want to protect from this. The barrel i can swap out but the frame i can't
Just using reduced power loads to extend longevity is about all I know to do. With modern steels, though, I’m really not sure how much of an issue flame cutting is anymore vs. frame stretch. Manufacturing has come a long way, so I’m not really sure what the limiting factor is anymore.
My second Beretta I just got yesterday. The 92fs feels perfect in my hand, the slide is extremely smooth. I cant wait to put 1000s of rounds through it. Proven reliability, they say can handle 10s of thousands of rounds before failure. My other Beretta is the micro small pocket pistol 950 jetfire . 25 love it as well.
They’re definitely robust handguns and extremely smooth to shoot. A little large by some standards, but I don’t think there is a better handling pistol.
Appreciate the video.I would like to add that if you have any sealant squeeze out the sides,make sore the gas port inside the carrier is cleared of any sealant aswell.
An excellent point to be made. It’s definitely worth a quick glance if someone has a bore scope handy. Generally, though, most people don’t, and I’ll be of the opinion that unsupported sealant is almost certainly going to get blown out during initial test firing. Someone would have to be going really overboard with the sealant to actually obstruct function, and small amounts will probably just burn off slowly and be exhausted through the carrier vents or cleaned out during routine cleaning practices. So, yes, check if you’re able and are uncertain of quantities to use, but I normally probably wouldn’t bother with it.
