I have a 2006 mercury montego and it's starting to pop out of gear every time it hits 3rd gear and pops back in but I just don't know why it's doing it would you have any information please
I have a 2001 Explorer Sport. How do you get the whole thing off in the first place? There aren't any screws holding it onto the cab ceiling. Do I just yank it off? Use a slot screwdriver to gently pry it off? Any hints are appreciated.
@@valeriestevens5250 press the button to open the storage door. Remove the two screws holding the rear section to the roof. The front snaps in and out.
@@KevinMcPCFII Thank you very much! The Explorer was in the shop when you responded. I just got it back Saturday and the first thing I did was open the storage door and I saw the two screws. Do I need to remove the front also, or can I just remove the rear portion? Once we get to cooler weather, I want to check it out. While I wait, I'll check some YT videos to see how to solder things and then I will be ready.
@@valeriestevens5250 yes. Remove the screws and pull the front down to unclip. You can then unplug the connector and remove the entire assembly to your work station. Disassemble, repair and reassemble. It was a relatively simple process. Be sure to plug it in and function check before you go through the process of reassembling.
I enjoyed you video on the cvt trans out of Ford Five Hundred. I own one that was doing the same as this one. I was trying to find a o ring for the shaft, just like yours. Do you have any information where i can purchase one with out purchasing the whole kit. Thanks
Have a 99 dodge ram first it had cylinder misfire, then multi cylinder misfire then went to running decent then back to crap, now wont start at all, it trys to, replace the computer and crank sensor with no change
Learning this vehicle, im ultra stubborn about running as long as possible.. Your understanding is pretty amazing. Pulse width is electrical engineering.. Square wave pulsating DC just like noted.. 0-100% "power level". This would be driven off a MOSFET (Metal Oxide Semiconductor Feild Effect Transistor) or IGBT (Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistor). Seems like this system was an afterthought maybe for domestic emissions?? It sure didn't last.. Mine keeps getting worse.. bubbling rumble exhaust sound on drivers side for 20 seconds that changes to normal or near.. I'll watch again I think this is correct track thanks..
I have owned 3 metros, one since it was new. The one i bought new in 98 was hard to go in 2nd compared to the other gears on day one. Actually took it back to the dealer and complained but they wouldn't do anything. After 150k i lost second gear completely. Put another 90k without a second gear until it made really loud crunching noises and intermittent lockups while driving. I can't tell you how gutless my takeoffs were that way, almost dangerous getting on the highway going from first to 3rd. For some reason the synchros suck and it was a common problem for 2nd gear. If you shift very slowly into 2nd like really slow it will last a long time. I was younger and my driving habits weren't patient so i went through a tranny every 150k. As i got older and more patient knowing the consequences for shifting too fast and my used ones made it longer. Now I'm hoping i can find a rebuilt tranny and revive my original car. I don't want a used one but it looks like I'm going to have to rebuild one myself. The car just isnt worth paying someone 100 plus an hour to fix it. Anyone out there done one? How bad was it? Does anyone out there have a line on a reasonable rebuilt or new one?
It’s a rebranded Schumacher and these are just been through 4 in 3 years and will never buy another electronic anything from snapon. It’s not a ripple it’s a half wave charger it should be 100 bucks instead of 900. It’s junk….
My 2013 equinox may have this issue. The OBDII live data shows high pressure around 500 psi at idle. When I rev up to 2500 rpm (in Park) increases to 900 PSI. Is that too low? Should be 1200 to 2000 PSI - sign of leaking fuel pump or a leaky injector? Short term fuel trim is +4 to -17. Long term fuel trim is -25 to -40 on OBDII But no P0172 code. I have an intermittent P0303 cylinder 3 misfire code.
@@andreys2002 Yes, fixed now. Installed back in early August 2022, I replaced the high pressure fuel pump. About USD $220 from Rock Auto (pump + new fuel pipe). Took about 1 hour to install myself. Located on top of engine - feeds the injectors on the fuel rail. No misfire codes and the STFT and LTFT are back in normal ranges.
Good afternoon MrGreasybob and nice to meet you my friend! Are you able to make a video showing me how to do two diagnostic tests please? I will greatly appreciate it! 1st Diagnostic Test Turn the ignition off. Disconnect the Fuel Injector harness connector. Disconnect the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) harness connector. Measure the resistance of the fuel injector driver circuit between the fuel injector harness connector and the PCM harness connector. Is the resistance below 5.0 ohms? If yes, go to next step. If no repair the open in the fuel injector driver circuit. 2nd Diagnostic Test Turn the ignition off. Disconnect the fuel injector harness connector. Disconnect the PCM harness connector. Measure the resistance between ground and the fuel injector driver circuit in the fuel injector harness connector. Is the resistance below 100 k/ohms? If yes, repair the short to ground in the fuel injector driver circuit. If no, go to next step.
I have a question. I have a 97 Chevy Silverado with the 4L60E. I was driving back to work and out of nowhere I started to hear a terrible grinding noise. Kind of like the sound of gear teeth rubbing and roaring against each other. As I press the accelerator the grinding noise got worse and increased with the RPM. The truck did not have any power to the real wheels. I managed to get it on the side of the road. When I put it in reverse without hitting the accelerator it grinds. When I put it in drive, or 1,2, etc it shifts perfectly fine ,but again when I hit the accelerator it starts to grind. When I shift it into drive I can feel the truck wanting to pull itself ,but of course as soon as I touch the accelerator it begins to grind and will not move. I think it may be the sun gear or the torque converter ,but I'm not sure. If anyone may kindly give me any advice it would be highly appreciated. Thank you.
This is the biggest piece of junk that Toyota created, and you can be sure that behind it there's greed involved. It probably only reduces a fart's worth of hydrocarbons in the emissions and no major benefit to the environment, and yet when it goes bad you have to spend hundreds of dollars to buy the piece of shit or even buy the whole c/c assembly. Otherwise your car won't pass inspection. They're retarded and greedy, if you ask me.
Hey man I could use some guidance or help. This is the deal I have this 2011 Ford Crown Victoria taxi cab, I work at a taxi company. The cooling fan will not come on. Before you say try another fan or module or try a complete assembly let me tell you I've tried 4 brand new assemblies because the shop kept telling O reilly's they were defective and to bring another one which they did. Ok so I tried each fan and module assembly on a different cab and they all worked. They were all perfectly good and functional. I went in hands on diagnostic mode with multimeter, test light, Snap on Ultra probe and spare wires for jumping. I first verified power at the connector going into the fan control module located at the fan, there is no fan relay except for in the module at the fan on this vehicle, which came at 12v. I then checked ground which was perfect. I then tested for voltage at the pcm wire which was perfect as well. I then moved to testing continuity and as I thought it was all perfect as well. I then voltage drop tested the circuit and of course there was no excessive or out of spec voltage drop anywhere on the circuit. I then visually inspected all wires and connectors and there was no issue what so ever. I then moved over to testing mode in which I jumped the fan from the battery first and it came on and worked perfectly. I then unplugged the module from the connector with the 3 wires on it and jumped the fan from that connecter and of course it came on and ran perfectly. I also swapped the pcm off of a cab which it's cooling fan worked as it should onto this one with no change. I then just for fun repeated this process 4 times on each fan and module assembly and absolutely no change and they all worked perfect when jumped. Being able to somehow code this fan control module at the fan is my last hope of getting this fan to work as it should. Currently the fan is controlled by a toggle switch I wired to it with a 30 amp inline fuse.
I have a 2006 malibu 2.2 eco tec i put in new struts new rack opinion everything is tight But there still a clunk we i turn its good but when i released to straighten the wheel again than there a clunk what else can cause that
For that same fee Ford (or your independent mechanic) charges to retrieve your code for you, they will also reprogram it to whatever numbers you want. Like your childhood zip code for example, something you'll never forget.
Why? When a high quality relay can be sourced for less than $20.00, the same method removes the faulty unit, and then the new one solders right back in there in about 5 minutes. No stringing 5 different wires through, no breaking your module housing, no connector and no bulky relay dangling around in the limited space you have up under your dash. Oh, to make it more easily serviceable in the future. Why? A new relay soldered in properly will likely not fail again in your vehicle lifespan. Period. It is not cheaper, it is not better (no, in fact it is worse. it is hacked), and the biggest chuckle here is... FORD WILL REPLACE THE WHOLE MODULE FOR FREE! Last I checked--21 September, 2021--the recall is still being honored. Pfftt...
