I'm Jonathan and I own a 38mm robinet revolutionary war style cannon that we built in our shop. This style of cannon was used as an anti-personnel cannon and was designed to shoot grape and canister shot as well as single cannonballs.
We will be shooting all kinds of historical projectiles and cannonballs to replicate historical battles and damage, showing you how we made it, and shooting anything else that will fit down the barrel at whatever sounds fun to shoot. If you enjoy cannons, learning some history, and watching things explode this is the channel for you!
If you've got any ideas on what you want us to shoot out of the cannon or shoot with the cannon, leave a comment and let me know!
Inquiries or Partnerships: TheCannoneer@yahoo.com Instagram: instagram.com/thecannoneer868
"My names Jonathan, this is my canon." But....But...But you can't own a canon. Couldn't buy one when the Second Amendment was written, can't get one now....Biden said so.... 😂
Hahaha they actually come out and watch sometimes. I was surprised they were super cool with it! All they asked for is a shoutout in the videos! Not to mention we clean up behind ourselves and probably more than we brought hahaha.
Believe me I've done it. 97° outside and still standing in front of a lit forge. That being said we lost A/C and it's 87° in the house. Nothing but shorts on this channel until it's fixed.
Those printed pellets might be cool for packing full of BBs and shooting the pellets backwards. They should make a fine wadding for a bigass shotgun blast from the cannon.
I think being that its tpu is hurting the accuracy because its being pushed in all different directions in the barrel. Maybe use pla on the top of the pellet and tpu on the bottom. Or just put it inside a sabot.
It would still give you the seal u need on the pellet skirt but u would still have the structure and rigidity in the round. I just think it's causing the round to bounce around in the barrel because it's a soft plastic.
A bit too much work perhaps, but it would be interesting to see them in led. Printed in the right size, thin walls and some structural support in the print, and the casted using the "lost wax method".
@@TheCannoneer meh ...keep a mix. Use shorts to advertise (teasers with cool explosions) and 8 min and 20 min video mixes for when you drag em home. I don't click on 20 min videos. too long until i discover someone. appeal for rounds every video including shorts.
That plug seems like its just being held by that pin. The plug isn't welded at all, without the pin there's nothing really preventing it from shooting right back at you.
It’s also an oversized plug that’s driven down in there and quickly quenched for a pressed fit. It’s taken up to 1600 grains a few times and we never shoot anywhere near that on a regular basis. In fact the carriage just broke a bit as the force of the shot cracked one of the risers. I’ll be posting that before too long too. Good question!
We’ve got one on it. You can see the rail in between shots sometimes. We take it off so it doesn’t get shattered. It’s super super accurate when we’re using the correct ammo but the light and weird stuff is extremely unpredictable. And oh yeah… it’s an unregistered ghost cannon 😂🤣
Hahaha that’s actually what we use at the moment. The light projectiles are a bit unpredictable but we can nail a plate at 100 yards pretty much everytime. We’ve for a red dot on it now!
I made a nylon insert for my brass cannon that holds one of the 12 gauge laser bore sight tools. It can be safely inserted and removed after loading and at the short ranges I shoot at, 25 ft. its dead on. It protrudes from the bore with an oversize diameter so no fingers have to be directly in line with the bore.
I’ve got a video where I made a prototype that didn’t work up and I’m printing V2 at the moment! Trevor also sent me a set of those to test out of his own design I’ll be putting out later!
That won't help because he can't see obvious hits. He thought that first one was left when it hit obviously high and right on the hood. He'd just mark the wrong hit.
The Minié ball is sometimes called the most dangerous bullet ever made. Dimensions of the bullet are very easily found on google. I wonder how a scaled up & printed version would fly ? If I had a printer I'd send a file, but I don't. Luv the stuff God bless.
We actually shot some in the “3D printed cannonballs” episode a while back! They will blow a massive hole in the backstop of wood but they are a bit unpredictable in accuracy. I need to cast some one of these days. Or lathe one out!
Let's google what elements are used for fireworks colors, add them to your powder and do some night shoots? Many opportunities for some long exposure slowmo.
Ex-pyrotech here...in general, colored flames are running much, much cooler than Black-powder. Green and blue flames (copper-salts) need the flames to be very cool and have lots of free chlorine (potassium perchlorate) for good color. Chlorine salts are gonna ruin the bore of your Cannon...rust within minutes on a humid day! Red (strontium nitrate) does better with higher temps, but can appear pink/washed out if too hot. Yellow (sodium nitrate or Plaster of Paris (orange)) just don't care...the hotter you get, the brighter the color... The residue from burning these ruin Iron/steel very quickly. If you are gonna try these, swab the bore with grease before each shot, clean the bore with gallons of hot water to rinse out any salts.
