Busaru welcomes you to join our cause to resurrect dead VW's into more powerful, reliable, and efficient classics using Subaru engines. The challenge is to take that old bus that's lying in a field somewhere near you, and to dramatically change your life by resurrecting it and finding that you have a knack for mechanics - even if you've never been trained. Follow along fellow resurrectors!
Good video as I’m about to work on the same calipers office 73 square back which are kind of moving but locking up when the brake pedals pushed I’m hoping it will be a little easier to get out than yours.
Unfortunately no longer a legal option for those of us in Virginia (and a lot of other states). Sigh. I'm trying to save a beautiful old car, but it looks like it'll have to go to the parts guy instead. So bummed.
Why does everyone just run it till it breaks anymore? My passat has a couple hundred miles from the 60k service, I plan to do timing belt, not from mileage but from age. And also plan to do cv boots. Not because the boots are bad, because the frigin grease has been in there for 60 thousand miles and it needs new grease.
Hi, We have the 4B computer, but we don't have the harness for our Legacy 2003. We're doing a conversion to VW. It's discontinued, how can we get one? Can you make the harness for us?
I want to add to this. I've done a few Subi-swap harnesses and I'm an electrical engineer. First and foremost, Pick an easy year like 2003-2005 and don't get a California spec computer (You can use one but its a PITA because its much more sensitive to emissions control and will throw more codes). Don't cut any wires for the two main engine plugs and O2 sensors. shorten the wires for both relays. like 12" from the ECU. do not route the O2 sensor wires near anything! They are super sensitive to noise even with the shielding. PICK A GOOD CODE KILLER BOARD! The Smallcar old board is the bare minimal but will still not eliminate some codes. Don't forget to default your computer to manual transmission or you won't be able to start the car. find a way to hook up a neutral switch. The computer needs to see the transmission in neutral once and a while to eliminate the code and also some year ECU's will not kill the injectors when you come off the throttle and shift resulting in a rev-hang (Depressing the clutch will cause RPM's to rise a bit in between shifts) and some ECU's will cause the RPM's to fall to fast and too low coming to a stop. This might stall the van or cause the oil pressure light to illuminate due to low RPM/potential stall condition. it will drive you nuts figuring it out. I'm researching an in-line clutch pressure switch to ground this wire to produce a "Clutch/neutral" signal. make sure your VSS (if you are using a Hall effect ring on the rear CV) is shielded and away from all other wires. This is a super low voltage signal that will cause erratic performance with no warning if the pulses get noisy. Verify with your OBD2 in live data looking at the vehicle speed while driving. Make sure the voltage leads for the O2 sensor heater circuits are not energized when the vehicle is off. A common wiring mistake resulting in a dead battery after 12-24 hours. ONLY use Densu sensors!!! eBay bought sensors are all miss-wired and can or will cook your computer in 2 seconds. Don't wire hour computer to not receive constant 12V battery voltage when key out. There is a wire that needs 12V all the time. Not wiring this up will make the computer "Forget" the learned maps and this might or will be revealed as a double-start condition (start the van, it dies in 2 seconds, start again, runs fine). for experimenters: Some ECU's can almost ignore no VSS signal but need a regular "pulse" to keep the engine happy. I have heard of people wiring up cheap adjustable flasher relays off eBay set to 130 flashes per minute or so. The computer does not use actual vehicle speed to adjust the maps. it seems to only want to know if the vehicle is moving or not. Anyone want to work on this? DO NOT BUY THE SMALLCAR WIRING CHEAT SHEET. BIG WASTE OF MONEY AND ITS USUALY WRONG. ONLY USE 3M ELECTRICAL TAPE. NO EXCEPTIONS AT ALL. TRUST ME. CLEAN ALL CRAP OF WIRES WITH PURPLE POWER! USE GLOVES AND A MASK. TRUST ME. IF YOU SOLDER ANY WIRES, PLACE A SCRAP CUTTING OF WIRE INSULATION OF THE SAME GUAGE PARALLEL WITH THE SOLDER JOINT PLUS 1/2-1" PAST EACH END THEN HEAT SHRINK. YOU NEED THE FLEX PROTECTION. USE A GOUND TERMINAL STRIP INSTEAD OF ROUTING 8 WIRES TO GOUNDS. THE MASTER GROUND CABLE SHOULD BE 8 GUAGE TO ENGINE BARE METAL LIKE THE ALTERNATOR MOUNTING BOLT. DONT USE THE SUBARU OBD2 PLUG. IT SUCKS ONCE YOU DEINSTALL IT FROM THE KICKER COVER. PURCHASE A $20 OBD2 PIGTAIL FROM EBAY AND EXTEND THE WIRES NO MORE THAN 30 INCHES. EXPECT CODES. MOSTLY IDLE CONTROL CODES. EVAP CODES ARE COMMON NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO. PLACE A SPARK PLUG ANY FOULING COLLAR BETWEEN THE DOWNSTREAM O2 SENSOR AND THE CAT/PIPE. THIS WILL ELIMINATE CATALYST CODES.
Can you tell me how much it cost total that would be of great help I have a bill of sale but no title to the car it’s a 1982 928 Porsche thank you for your help it means so much I really want to get this car on the road legally can you tell me what it cost ???
Has anyone ever used one of those small Honda radiators and mounted them in the back? Also, if I don’t want heat, or AC, or anything fancy, just the swap. What am I looking at for cost?
Subaru motors suck, they blow headgaskets, they burn oil. They may have the extra hp and torque. I went with 2.3 GoWesty motor which has been reliable thus far for 80k miles now.
This concept is stupid. The radiator will be destroyed if mounted under the vehicle. Do not do this, don't be a retard. Every mfg faced with this scenario hard pipes, 2" copper pipe to the front of the vehicle and mounts the radiator in the best location.
Hi Mick, as you pointed out, Pin 81 the Auto/Manual Identification does not exist on an Automatic. The identical code wire is found at PIN 75 and its Black with a Red stripe and a single silver bar. Thanks for your recent chat on the phone.
Great overview! I'm just now getting into this VW world and I'm thinking about making a conversion like this for my 82' air-cooled tin top Vanagon. Do you think it's worth this kind of investment to a van that isn't a camper?