We are a renewable heating company and in light of the Green Industrial Revolution, we look to help spread the awareness of greener living and offer guidance on the technologies available.
Thanks for taking the trouble to reply . I ask because our installer is suggesting two ecodans 11kw cascaded . All I see on RU-vid from installers of quality is the use of Vaillant , the installer argues vaillant controls were variations of their gas boiler controls and that their customer service is rubbish . This is leaving me in a quandary , of course it may be to do with supply discounts from either and they make more money on the ecodans ,,however they do have a good reputation on installs
@@pmbpmb5416 mitsubishi have had a range of issues over the past 18 to 24 months and the Vaillant customer service and product is far better than the Mitsubishi Ecodan. I would, without a doubt, install the Vaillant. Where are you guys based?
Thanks for that info , unfortunately in south Wales where there is a dearth of reputable installers, nearest heat geek elite is Cardiff for example and they don’t do solar as well , I am trying to tie up the install together .
As you probably know melcloud has been down there for about a week. Ive tried numerous times to reconnect using the WPS way and also using the SDDI & KEY method to no avail. Only think i can see different is at the start my unit light is on constantly and not flashing. Cant see any other reason why its not connecting. Ive followed both ways and nothing. Any help or tips please ? Many thanks
Very helpful - we have 4 panels with IQ7As at the moment with the Tesla 2 battery and gateway. We’re thinking of adding more panels but on an outbuilding. Is it as simple as wiring these into a circuit and the system will pick them up? Or do they need to be programmed to the gateway to make them work?
Just for my own curiosity, why the mid clamp are not on the longside (15-20% from edges) and are mounted on the short side. I have yet to see a panel manufacturer to indicate this time of mounting. It can be done but with a pannel with no more than 1.8m lenght.
That consistent “hum” I could hear when you were talking would drive me nuts - my neighbour is having one fitted this week - and honestly I’m dreading it - it will be like someone running a bloody lawn mower 24/7 and if at night if I want our bedroom window open it’s going to be awful - they should be bloody banned - horrible bloody things - and it’s within a metre of our border with him - he didn’t even tell us he was having one fitted - bloody awful - going to ruin the peace in our garden
We moved in to our converted barn 9 years ago (bought from a previous owner who didn't really live in it). It has an ECODAN ASHP for underfloor heating and hot water. It is expensive to run and gives nothing back. I have turned off the heating and replaced it with 3 Everett stoves, which are really good. Although the hot water is set to 24hrs it is always cold, so we have to repeatedly use the boost button (up to 3 times) to heat water for washing up etc. I have really struggled to find anyone to offer a service, the original installers have gone. I have recently contacted a company I saw on a recommendation of our local face book page who wants £400 plus vat and extra if the glycol needs topping up. Luckily I have a gas Aga (aims programmable) which help to heat the property; gas central heating would be preferable but with the cost to convert and net zero agenda this is not a possibility. I am so frustrated!!
What the hell use is a solar system to the customer if it shuts down for SAFETY when the mains is lost???? How do you tell him is completely devoid of electricity and his freezer thaw out the fridge dies and they will be sitting in the dark without anything to do. Why can the solar system and any battery not keep the house live because of the god safety? Is it because the feedback to the mains in not possible because a switch over device cannot know when the mains goes off as there is still 230 volts available to it. The policy of solar appears to be the advantage of the power companies financial position. Surely there has to be some sort of standby power available to keep it all going , I had a power down for a week because of a u found wet fault in the mains several times in the passed year until they replaced the whole cable system along the road.
That's where ATS comes in to limit the power produced from solar panels and stop it from exporting to grid during power outage. Your installer should be able to give you more information on this.
No smoke alarm was fitted in my Attic I fitted one myself and linked it to others in the bungalow. The so-called electrician had very little knowledge of how to wire the system up. The installers were called back several times because the inverter and battery system were installed incorrectly and only half the battery storage was fitted or delivered. The MCS certificate was issued but I complained to the two associations about the workmanship, both did not help because the company although using the logos on the website and correspondence had failed to pay the membership fee for the year. The Ikano Bank was of little use when I informed them not to pay the company until the work was sorted they paid them despite being told all the system had not been delivered ie breach of contract. Saint Solar I believe is now out of Business. I have nearly paid the loan back to the Ikano Bank. So despite looking for a recognised company belonging to the correct associations and MCS-trained you still can only believe word of mouth from satisfied genuine customers.
I have an installer looking to specify Mitsubishi , he notes Vaillant customer support is poor and that he says their controls were variations off their gas boilers . The Mitsubishi though were the result of their experiences in the air to air market . I still can not decide which manufacturer to go with .
With the multiple zones, multiple underfloor zones, buffer and secondary pumps I would think 3.65 as a SCOP is high. Ideally remove the buffer, remove the two secondary pumps remove the actuators on the underfloor heating as well as the mixer valve on the underfloor manifold. install flow gauges next to the zone valves and do the calcs depending on the max flow rate requirement of each zone. the system needs minimum 55l of water so you could use the buffer as a accumulator on the return if the underfloor is too small as a single zone. Its a great install nut I do think the Valliant design assumes the installer doesn't understand hydronics.
I have 62 homes being built next to me, all 60 will have heat pumps, will I likely notice them ? I am 30 metres away from the nearest new home being built. I am concerned as I live in a quiet village and this is 60+ homes who will have them. I think the builders were forced to install them due to the government.
I would have been tempted to install it as east west facing aray any and get a longer generation period with less of a mid day peak. Was this an option?
I had discounted the Mixergy as I had been told that when connected to an ASHP it reverted to being a standard emersion heater and you didn't get the benefit of choosing how much water you needed. For the most part I will be a single person living in a 4 bed 2 bath house so would want the capacity when people came to stay but on a day to day basis would probably only need 50% of the tank if not less. I will also have Solar PV, Harvi and eddie and a Give Energy all in one battery. Can you confirm the Mixergy tank would still work as required with my setup?
This was an extremely informative video as I have been offered a Mitsubishi by an MSC recommended fitter but my local authority had used a Vaillant for a retrofit they had just done and I wasn't sure which would be better. The fitter has promised to do a full evaluations when he comes to see me so we will know what size I need but I do like the idea of the R290 refrigerant that the Vaillant uses so I might be able to pursued him to try a different manufacturer. I have just started on a renovation of a 1950's semidetached single brick bungalow - It will have a wrap around extension to two sides and external insulation on the front, roof has been removed and will have a 2 bedroom one bathroom dormer. The builder knows I want extra insulation on the party wall and as I am having under floor heating throughout. This should suit an ASHP perfectly.
I have an 11.2kW Ecodan which was running for two years in Weather Compensation mode till Oct'23. Because it is a linear curve it never worked well because I always had to intervene once room temperature was reached by dialling down the curve by a few degrees to enable longer runs. Since the beginning of Oct'23 I switched to fully automatic (target room temp/auto adaptive) mode. After 3 months I'm amazed how much difference it has made - at least 15% better COP with like for like room/outside temps, and I have checked and double checked these results so many times now. The operation of the heat pump is so much better "managed", with more gentle startups (not so much initial power spiking), lower flow temps, longer run times, and better management of the effect of defrosting in really cold temps. You can clearly see in MelCloud how flow temps are modulated automatically as target room temp is achieved and then maintained for the longest possible runs at the lowest flow temps. Best news is that I don't have to intervene at all now - I can just leave it to do its thing all the time. Very impressed indeed with this superb piece of software from Mitsubishi.
Is there any reason why this (or any HT heat pump) couldn't be installed to directly replace the boiler on a y-plan system? It seems to me that it just needs a few feet of copper pipe to get from where the boiler is to the new HP and that would be about all that's needed. And for that price the BUS would cover the cost 100%. I really like the way it would match the black basalt of my new gravel drive too!
Electricity price is generally is 3-4x the price of natural gas. Also, almost all energy tax is put on electricity and almost none on gas. The market has been rigged to encourage gas use which is piped directly to residential properties in most cities and towns.
Hey guys, please can you to advise whether the noise coming from my Ecodan is normal/close to normal? It's an 11.2kw model just been installed, and I don't know if there are grounds to complain or if this is normal when running a little harder. It was flowing at around 45c at time of the video, to heat the hot water tank. Video on my channel.
@@Rusteh100 should really be done to the installation company as you would need to isolate the electricity to the outdoor unit and remove the panel to the right of the fan as you look at the machine. There are some labels inside the machine where the compressor sits that instruct where the packaging sits, if the labels are still there, there is a good chance the packaging is too.
Looks like they be revising the anti noise legislation then, oh there's allowance for those. Typical British response, need a fixed constitution, there is a new law every week in this place .
Hi, so how this unit stands in real world year after when specs are out now? I'm debating to buy it and looks very good on paper but I haven't find many reviews of this unit so I don't know how it is in terms of durability and performance. Also LG is planning to release new Therma V in January with R290 coolant so what do you think will be a better unit ? It's worth to wait for LG or buy this Samsung? Appearance is very similar but specs are not known yet for LG, at least I haven't found them. Thanks!
coming from someone who sells or installs heat pumps would you expect them to say "yes heat pumps are noisy"! When I was in Australia, next door adjacent our bedroom, the click and whirr that occurred each time it started and stopped, would affect our sleep. Yes, with daily activity and noises in daytime one might say it was quiet. In the quiet of the night it was damn noisy. Imagine a car door opening and closing and the car starting. Not that noisy, right.......try sleeping with that going on over and over and over all night.
Hey Dore, I'm seeking advice on a situation with my Mitsubishi Ecodan. I purchased it in the UK where it's popular, then brought the whole system to Poland. The local services were surprised and had minimal knowledge about this model. Eventually, we got it running, but they were surprised by the absence of a heating element supporting the house heating circuit. The heat pump has been operating for five days in our newly built bungalow with one underfloor heating circuit. However, it's struggling to raise the temperature around the house, although the hot water seems fine. To ease the load, we closed off some room circuits, hoping the pump would perform better. The plan is to reopen these circuits as the temperature rises, but after five days, there's been no noticeable improvement. I had intended to reach out to Mitsubishi service for advice, but I still need internet in the house. Could you advise if our approach seems correct? Additionally, I'm curious about why there's a heating element for the house circuit. Any insights would be appreciated.
Hi, it shouldn't require an element as back up for the heat pump itself, presuming the heat pump is sized according to the heat load of the property the distribution to the UFH circuit shouldn't be an issue. Did you install a Mitsubishi Pre Plumbed cylinder? How many zones are wired into the FTC? I would be checking; Actuator heads are operating on the UFH manifolds to the zones requiring heat The heating distribution pump is circulating when the UFH is calling for heat The ASHP is recognising the signal for heat from the UFH circuit The dipswitches on the FTC are set correctly The flow rate is sufficient between the ASHP and distribution internally The diverter valve is operating correctly between heating and hot water
@@dorewoodman thank your for your reply. The property features a 95m2 bungalow equipped with 100% UFH, with new and well-insulated structure. The heat pump has a capacity of 5KW with FTC6 and a pre-plumbed cylinder, connected to only one circuit. Both the actuator heads and the manifold are brand new, along with the UFH system. We attempted to regulate the temperature by closing some heads on the manifold, but unfortunately, it didn't yield any positive results. My assumption is that the dipswitches are preset for a single heating zone along with domestic hot water, which I currently have. The only component not yet linked is the wireless room controller. I found it perplexing when you mentioned the UFH calling for heat, or the ASHP recognising that signal. Nonetheless, as per the installer's advice, it might take a couple of weeks for the system to adequately warm up, especially considering the newness of the house and its current low temperature, compounded by the cold weather outside. Do you think this scenario could be the case?
the problem I have with this is that a noise cancelling microphone in a modern video camera or mobile phone is not going to give a true representation of the true background noise you will hear in the house.
Why do the microinverters have to be directly underneath the panel - why can’t they be in a cluster somewhere in the loft attached to their respective panels by wire?
It would be a great idea, although the Q cables aren’t currently long enough and it would require a number of cable entry points through the roof. The Q cable is much thicker than a standard PV1 cable.
