Hi, and welcome to my channel. Firstly.. I really hope that amongst the many repair & review videos here, you will find something that's of help or interest to you. Most of the activities here will cover my main interest which is my electronics hobby. Nope, I'm no electronics engineer, but I do love to test/repair broken or water damaged Macbooks & iPhones amongst other things. In fact any failed electronic devices if & when possible.
WARNING: Some of the electrical activities/repairs shown on my channel involve HIGH VOLTAGES!!.. So ANY attempts to replicate these activities will be done so entirely at YOUR OWN risk! As *ANY* mains or high voltage electrical project can be DANGEROUS!
Emergency equipment comprising of safety cut-off's, fire blankets & CO2 fire extinguishers are always adjacent to my test-bench should they ever be required.
If you happen to spot a mistake or error in a video, please do let me know so that I can rectify it👍
does anybody know how to polarize this film? I know can cut the direct polarizing the adsm24? For the led lamp lights I can cut out circular small rings measured out with polarize fillm install them easily and turn them to deflect light, but as for the 3 lenses andonstar provides lens a d and the one mounted is there a glass lens I can buy to install on all 3 lenses so I can cut film for it that fits or an adapter? Does anybody know where they are or who sells the compatible glass lens?
Great quality video.👍I found it very interesting. My Bosch Athlet wasn't that old when the batteries started to fade. I very seldom used Turbo. If I did, the batteries would drain within like 2-3 seconds and it would need a new charge. The next thing to happen was that the red sensor light came on and stayed on. If I plug it in to charge, it starts charging and after about 20 seconds, the red light comes on, stays on and stops the charging process. I thought it was a filter warning. I've cleaned the filter but it didn't help. Although, having said that, I didn't put the filter in the washing machine like they state you can in the user manual for a serious clean of the filter. Because it won't charge, it is basically useless to me now. We were never happy with the Bosch Athlet. We both complained that it just pushed particles further forward instead of sucking them up - especially larger particles on hard floors. Your video highlights another design issue with this device that thankfully I didn't encounter. I've bought a Dyson. Yes it is much more expensive but it is far superior in every way. The wife and I are much more satisfied. We will see how long the battery on the Dyson lasts 🤞In the meantime, my advice would be to steer clear of these vacuum's. They are nothing but trouble and the lifetime of the battery pack is ridiculously short.
thanks so much for posting this, I have a number of vape pens here that I'm trying to find the issues with, your video very helpful indeed. It does make me wonder if complicated machines like the Tesla, if one small capacitor could take down a tesla if it failed, it does make you wonder about the wisdom of making things more and more complex
Thanks buddy, appreciate the kind comments 👍 I guess only time will tell if any more vulnerable electronics in these modern vehicles etc are up to their jobs long term. IMHO any potential failures would be easier to deal with if you could actually access a failed component in the first place, instead of everything seemingly being stuck in little boxes in very obscure places these days 😂 Cheers John
What could be added to the unpopulated slot near the wifi bluetooth card? Possible m.2 vram?? I was given a dell mini for housesitting. Was really suprised by the efficiency and quickness for such a low power machine. Given my daily was IBM thinkpad x40 with 10gb hdd, dvd-rw, and 2 gb maxed ram dual booting Mint and xp pro. The IBM purpose was 1 youtube 2 Kawasaki diagnostic (motorcycle) served well for 10 years 2005-2015. I did own a all in one vista garbage for media viewing at the house, but most times it was off (overheat)
Thank you for this video. I have a power supllies QPX600DP and i find the manual service, i try to repair it. By any chance do you have this document ?
Hi great video. Just wanted to say thanks, as you showed how to adjust the stand angle. I was struggling, until I saw you change the angle by pulling the column.
Great video! I just used this to do a full-spectrum conversion on the sensor. Still in need of a charger, but Ill hopefully get to see if I broke anything very very soon
Hi, I have one of these and would like to clean behind the speaker grills as they’re dirty. What is the best way to do this? Am i best to take the back off and then take out the tiny screws that hold in the mother board etc until I can get behind the grill?
Hi, I've never had the grill off one of these but I would say that you may run into trouble removing the whole inside of the radio, however if your happy doing that then you could certainly give it a try. First though check to see if you can access the bent over grill tabs that stick through into the radio, If you can it may save you taking the whole thing apart.. You can see one of the bent over grill tabs here on the left side, at the bottom centre of the battery compartment.. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GKWRJa5Ioq8.html
yeah, I had the mini 9 back then, terrible tiny speakers, haha..the 10v is somewhat more modern but still slow I gueass, I'll try to put on Mac OSX, Win7 and Linux on it
Hello mate.. I'm sure you would be happy with either. I use to love my EX330 mainly as it was so quick to use. It 's basically a no frills meter with a nice clear display and good accuracy. I don't think that was a True RMS meter though. I know the Kaiweets meters are True RMS meters. I like that the EX330 stands up on the bench properly, and it's leads fit 'normally' to the meters front facing ports. Whereas the KM601 has to lay on it's back, unless you prop it up. And this can be a bit awkward as the leads fit into the bottom of the unit. Also the KM601 has no rotary selector knob like the EX330, just buttons.. This does slow things down a tiny bit sometimes but this would be personal choice I guess. The Kaiweets KM601 does also have a large clear to read & colourful display. Accuracy on both meters are great for hobby use etc. If you'd choose to have a Kaiweets meter where the jacks fit in the conventional way (front panel) perhaps have a look at the Kaiweets ST600Y, just check out the specs first to check they meet your needs. Here's a link to the differences between the two Kaiweets models. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nxCIsPImX-w.html If I were to choose today between the EX330 & KM601 meters, I would probably choose the KM601.. Purely due to the larger display, being a True RMS meter with a few extra specs/features. Hope this helps.
Hi John for future ref the lens wasn’t on properly or the led was wonky too high etc, I have been doing tvs for years and been caught out so many times 😊 P.s most of the time it’s more efficient to replace the full set, as you can replace 2-3 LEDs and a week later another 3 go, a set of strips for like a 50” are £20-25 for the full set delivered from china
Hi mate, Thank you for your comments. You are probably correct. However later I also noticed that the LEDs viewing angle was far narrower than the factory LEDs. So I this would have required an even more accurate placing of the leds to try and balance that tight beam angle. Thanks mate Cheers, John
Hello, anyone got any idea what the thermistor is just behind the power supply NTC1 (black) ? Chip viper22a, the thermistor and the fuse blew when electric companies neutral came loose sending 380V through the charger. That was a few years ago, thought I'd repair it now, but can't identify the thermistor half blown away. I can see a TC and a 1. Thank you in advance.
Hi mate, I'm not sure if this is 100% correct as there are many variations of these i4 PCB's. However, I did find a PCB on Nitecores website that had an NTC right on the edge of the pcb next to the yellow input capacitor and fuse. This NTC was labelled NTC 5D-7, which is easily available. The 5D-7 NTCs are used on both i4 & i2 PCB's Hopefully, the input protection on your device saved the rest of it 👍 Cheers mate John
@@OrbiterElectronics Thank you very much. Yes I could try that. I think is identical i4 to the one in your video.. Looking at the data sheets it seems the 5D-7 means 5 ohms diameter 7. Mine had a 1 at the end so probably diameter 11. Possible NTC 5D-11.Whatever happened it blew and the fuse and the chip viper22a, but all the traces seem OK. I have another broken Nitecore charger which I have deemed a no fix. Its the New i4............. It just stopped charging on the first battery, but the other 3 charge OK. Looking inside there is a small burnt area of twisted traces, pads etc. Looks like there must have been a transistor/mosfet there that has vapourised. I'll keep it for spares or last resort. These chargers seem to get quite hot. Thanks again for taking the time to answer.
@@johnherrington5 No problem mate 👍Just out of curiosity I took one of my very old i4s apart to have a look at it's design, as I believe it was one of the first models. And It seems that these had no NTC at all, overall they seemed a more basic design. IIRC one of my units was replaced under warranty as it failed almost immediately following a few days of running very hot indeed 🔥 I got a couple more i4s (one of which is in the video).. And I've only just noticed 😂.. this one, like the one on the Nitecore site has an NTC labelled 5D-7. Your right.. The i4 chargers do indeed suffer from heat issues. My other early units are also showing signs of heat damage in certain areas. Diode D7 along with two adjacent 0402 capacitors on the bottom of the PCB (below the DC input jack) look to be running very hot, as is Q7 judging by their colours 🔥 Cheers John
Wow, and I catch grief for trying to fix these solar lights. I was excited to find your video and can't wait to try out my new skillset. I know how to test continuity but was afraid to whack off parts and try to resolder. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the video. I tried the reset and I get it to scan on DAB but it won't play any DAB stations (NO ENSEMBLE) message. It does work fine on FM. My experience of nearly every DAB radio I have owned is the failure rate is huge. I own analogue radios from the 60s that are working fine... I don't know enough to repair it so I'll pass it onto my neighbour and they can use it as a shed radio.
Thanks mate 👍.. Yes I think either the firmware or the DAB chips themseles are the main failure point in these radios. Like you, I've seen loads of them.. even brand new ones fail 😯. And as for repair, it's rarely possible as replacement chips were, and perhaps still are impossible to get. Cheers .
Perhaps they have changed the irons or updated them. But as you can see at the top of the Left Side page at 3:04.. It mentions that The 'Electric soldering iron contains no batteries'.
This was posted ages ago but it still saved me some bucks!! Worked perfectly!! Had this mouse for a good 15 years and after your tip, it's just like brand new!!! Thank you!!
First check the charger is working and outputting the correct voltage. Then if you have a spare battery perhaps just try that. After that you would need to disassemble the phone and move onto checking that the voltages are correct getting to the battery & other specific areas inside the phone. If you're not sure what you're doing.. Please have someone who has experience to check it over for you, as such devices are rather easy to damage.
Thanks buddy 👍.. Yes Dell certainly could have just designed this the way most other manufacturers do. I guess the opportunity to make something difficult was just too much 😂 Cheers John
Hi, I have a synchron motor but the manual arm falls short of the micro switch/end switch. How can it fall short by about 4mm. Have the gears slipped? If so how can I realign them. This also means that when it’s called for hot water, the switch isn’t engaged to activate the boiler and pump. Hope you can help.
Hi Simon.. If I remember correctly my motor was doing the exact same thing as yours & wasn't contacting the mirco-switch at the end of it's travel. So our heating or hot water wasn't turning on. So as the motors were only about £12 I ended up replacing it. With regards to repair, I'm not sure as i've never bothered with that. But I'd doubt a repair would last anyway. As attached to the motor is it's small gearbox, this houses very small narrow plastic gears.. And what happens is these gears unfortunately strip teeth when they age, this then affects the travel length of the lever arm, meaning that it often doesn't reach the micro-switch as it should. Once a few teeth have stripped the motor/gearbox no longer works
Most of the time i find that it's the little switch that has rusted on the inside so i ether bypass the switch or solder the place where the switch connects to the board together and change out the battery to an ever ready energizer battery
Yes I've seen that a few times too Keith. The switches are very flimsy and vulnerable to moisture aren't they. Thanks for the comments mate. Cheers John
I don't normally have it that hot really.. perhaps 50-60℃ for a few minutes, It burns my hands if it's much hotter. If I then need more heat, I'll use the hot air on the specific parts.
John, what's a normal current for these backlights to draw. Is their a max current above which the power supply will roll back the current and shut the backlight off??
Hi mate... Unfortunately there is not a 'normal' consumption current for back-lights as they vary A LOT. I'm not sure if the TVs PSU will shut off or not. Here's a helpful video if you're in the process of testing etc ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4RzuLiRTzJg.html
@@OrbiterElectronics I powered them externaly and they little up perfect but they draw 250ma. I put on her own power supply and they come on and back off. I thought that 250ma would be ok as a current.
@@OrbiterElectronics I've watched all those videos, they are pretty much useless. I need to know is 250ma excessive or ok. I have looked at 3030 white leds and they are quoted at 300 ma
@@OrbiterElectronics 5 strips all in series with 9 on each strip total 45 leds. I hit it with 120 volts and they all light bar one I had to bypass and it's drawing 250ma which I thought was ok but I am wondering if these TV's have an upper cutt off current that they will shut down once crossed. I looked up tv leds for sale and they quote 300ma.
You can just solder in a suitable white LED. Remember to check that the LED is fitted the correct way around with regards to it's polarity. Then you can use a simple LED resistor calculator, to work out which resistor you'll require for your new white LED... www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/ledcalc.php
I just grabbed two tiny solar garden lights from my moms place that were not working anymore. I'll try to fix them as I generally have fun doing that kind of stuff... if there was just more time! :P
@@OrbiterElectronics cells are at 0,47V and 0,58V. Little PV module seems to be generating, cables and switch are good. I'll see if they take a charge again but they might be broken. The cheapest I've seen the 2/3AAA cells here are 10€ for 6 pieces. I'll think about it. It might be funny to have a regular AAA cell sticking out into the glass... 😅
@shazwannoor1502 .. Apologies.. I was thinking of a NVMe SSD drive, and not a standard SATA SSD drive, which would fit in the original hard drive bay 👍
