Just ensure any PTFE tape is wrapped clockwise around the threads so it doesn't get snagged as the gland nut is tightened. I did this in a rush and wrapped it the wrong way. Still worked though.

There's a small metal tray that slots under the boiler. There are official Mamod fuel tabs but I didn't have any so used BBQ lighter tabs instead. Probably not as safe so didn't want to show that.

Hi, no, the bushes were still tight as they are an interference fit and none of the liquid would get between the bush outer sleeve and the suspension arm.

I used Plusgas as it creeps between gaps that WD40 can't. Wiper removal tool will help but these rear wiper arms can put up a fight. If it still doesn't want to release, you may have to cut the arm around the spindle and clean up the threads and splines before fitting a new rear wiper arm. I smeared some ceramic grease before fitting a new arm which was from eBay. They're not expensive although quality can vary a bit.

Part 3 shows how it's done. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7Mgjl8xlYtI.htmlsi=9qxfPg19j9m4jg9Q

You literally have to push the foil into the diecast features of the body panel that needs to be replicated. A better method would be to replicate a real car panel process that uses two-part moulds and a press or bench vice. There is a RU-vidr who has made two-part moulds to stamp out alloy panels for 1:8th scale RC. Certainly a faster process than push forming.

Certainly since Euro 2 regs came out in the early 90's. My 1992 K reg Citroen XM 2.1 TD (XUD11) had EGR but my 1992 Pug 309 1.9 normally aspirated diesel didn't.

There is a clip that needs lifting and pivoting back to release the connector. It will probably be quite hard to move if it's never been removed before. I sprayed some WD40 over the clip pivot points and gently worked it loose.

I broke the yellow lever 😞

Hi, I'm not familiar with this particular car, however most torque-converter transmissions tend to operate in the same way. Check ATF level and colour since too low fluid level or too high will make it run hotter. Old fluid that smells burnt or is a brown colour indicates a transmission problem or very old oil. Like most auto transmissions, the fluid will have a fluid cooler and possibly a transmission oil to coolant heat exchanger that will contain a thermostat in a sandwich plate that only allows ATF to flow through exchanger when it reaches operating temperature. These systems rely on the engine cooling system to be working correctly so waterpump, coolant thermostat, radiator must be doing their job. I had a look on Google and overheating does get mentioned quite a bit on 300 forums. Found this video, hope it helps. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mBw8pu4LgXs.htmlsi=OYAE1emMuFi_Rz85

Haynes 4613 - Peugeot 206 - 2002 to 2006. Petrol 1.1 and 1.4 (8 & 16-valve), 1.6 8-valve, 2.0 litre and the 1.4 and 2.0 litre HDi diesels. This manual doesn't cover the 1.6 HDi or 1.9 XU diesels, the 1.6 litre 16-valve petrol engine or the GTi 180 models.

Ciao, ho trovato questo specialista di ricambi su Google. Forse sono le persone migliori a cui chiedere. www.transmida.lt/en/automatic-transmission-parts/alfa-romeo/zf-4hp18fla

I used disposable aluminium food containers which are about 0.3 to 0.5mm thick.

Both the oil supply pipe and oil return pipe must be attached and secure before the engine can be started. The bigger oil return pipe is awkward to remove if the turbo/exhaust manifold is still bolted up tight. It's made of a stiff rubber so in effect it is clamped between the turbo body and the block outlet pipe.

And not helped by Nissan using a foam type sealant on the inside between inner and outer arch.

I think I used this company. www.turborebuild.co.uk/nissan-chra?page=1&filters%5B%5D=11-Nissan+X-Trail&filters%5B%5D=12-2.2D#

You have to open the door and lift/drag it by the drum hence the polish or weak soapy water sprayed in front of the machine feet.

It's a project I've got to revisit. There is another RU-vidr who was actually stamping out miniature panels for large scale RC using resin and carved MDF moulds - a far quicker process than my attempts.

@@TK42138 Would be cool to see that. Does that RU-vidr form kitchen foil too or does he work with sturdier sheet metal?

Just about everything in the transmission was worn. The fluid was grey it had so much Shrapnel and metallic debris, clutch pack friction material was cooked and flaking and the valves and shuttle valves within the valve block were scored and the plastic valves had overheated and seized due to previous owner regularly towing while not keeping on top of the cooling system. The pump was scored too so losing pressure.

That's a good idea.

I've been using an empty five litre antifreeze container as a neck support while welding underneath my Rover project. Neck strain is horrible. The last time I got it, I ended up feeling dizzy and a bit rough. Wheel well/inner arch repairs are my least fave job as most welding masks are too bulky. Matt from Furious Driving channel was using a flexible hood auto dark welding mask in one of his vids.

Thanks, I've had to purchase another MIG welder as my old SIP Migmate is being even more recalcitrant than it normally is. Still got the sill part of this panel to weld up.

Thanks Paul, it's been a steep learning curve.

Hi, my one is the NT414 which is now several years old but still works. I think it's been superceded by the NT515 or possibly 600 series. I didn't have any problems with my Foxwell connecting with our 2004 Pug. In fact the replacement ABS unit cleared the fault code. Just make sure the brakes are bled before connecting the battery. A bit of polythene bag under the reservoir lid can reduce brake fluid loss when you loosen off the pipe unions but have old cloths to absorb spillages because brake fluid will damage paint.

@@TK42138 Thank you !... I have various scan tools that recognise the protocol but when I run a fault check they all say "no errors in ECU" even though I have a permanent ABS light on, pedal pulses on application and I'm pretty sure it's the controller as I've tested the sensors..cheers !

​@@TK42138 I replaced just the controller box yesterday hoping I could get away with it, ABS light went out!.. until I started driving then it came back..I read on a peugeot forum, controller and pump need to be a pair, so it looks like I need to do what you've done..

@@PompeyMatt17 How did you do just the box? Is that a seperate unit? I thought that was attached to the pump in this video or am I mistaken? I'm looking at doign this on my gf's citreon c3 but wondered if I can just do the controller! Cheers

Yes, you can but once it's on it stays on.

Thanks for the response

In addition to the four bolts holding the gearbox to the engine (two at the top and two at the bottom) one of the starter motor mounting bolts also doubles as a gearbox to engine bolt so you will need to loosen the starter motor. This link describes a bit more detail. pmmonline.co.uk/technical/how-to-replace-the-clutch-on-a-peugeot-206/

Assuming all the bolts are out including the transmission to body mount (under the battery tray) and the starter motor bolt, there are steel spacers/collars (that act as locators between block & gearbox) that often stick thus making it difficult to pull gearbox from engine.

Yes - you can connect the pipes directly so cabin heater is constantly warm. There's no law pertaining to heater valves. So long as the windows can be kept clear and the driver has good visibility/can see out. I did the same when I originally got the Fiesta. I used two plastic pipe connectors and four hose jubilee clips from Halfords so coolant permanently flowed through the heater matrix.

@@TK42138 thanku so much...i will do it tomorrow and let u know if it works fine.....

I did it and it works perfectly....

Yes, I ended up looking on Saab forums for spares but even ten years ago, spare parts were starting to get hard to find and secondhand transmissions are always a gamble if they can't be seen operating in the previous car and the 4HP18 runs hot in the heavy Citroen XM even with an ATF cooler and an ATF to coolant heat exchanger.

Hi, the heatshield nuts only support the thin and light shields. From your description it sounds like the solid metal rods that support the exhaust via rubber 'hangers' have rusted or fractured from the various parts of the floorpan. If you grab the end of the exhaust (on a cold engine) and it wobbles around with a knocking sound then several exhaust brackets or the rubber hangers have failed. It will need fixing because the exhaust is heavy and will be putting strain on the exhaust manifold/downpipe and the last remaining bracket/hanger at the rear. I've looked at my T30 and the pdf workshop manual and there are six support brackets including a bolted bracket mid way which I think is the mount near the heatshield.

'Nissan Xtrail UK' Facebook group have workshop manuals in pdf format that can be downloaded. There is a section on the T30 exhaust that applies to both the petrol and the diesels. Shame RU-vid doesn't do messaging otherwise I could have sent diagrams showing the exhaust bracket layout.

thank you, Im glad i didnt attempt to fix it to this nut in this case @@TK42138

@@TK42138 Unfortunately i dont use facebook . Perhaps i will need to invest in a haynes manual, if they do them. Thank you again for your valuable time and insight ;)

@@terry1548 Are you on Twitter/X or Instagram?

Unfortunately not. The abs and control module are almost impossible to separate without causing damage to both.