Wood, Sweat and Tears is a channel devoted to a necessity, turned hobby, of processing firewood. We currently produce wood for our own use and look to expand into selling firewood. This channel was created to show that progression.
Make sure you’re running the tractor at 540 RPM’s and the rear of the cutter needs to be higher than the front to allow for discharge. Great video for a beginner.
Very nice and informative video just one little mistake I noticed. The MS 180 is not a professional saw, the smallest Pro-saw is the MS 201. And you forgot the letter W, which stands for heated handles or my favorite MS261CM-VW VW means heated handles and heated carb. Greetings from Austria
Can you tell me why somebody would want to use this set up instead of a zero turn lawnmower on a piece of land like you're cutting? I just had a Kabota tractor with this brush hog passed down to me. I have a lot of grass to cut. The Kabota came with the backhoe the rotor tiller the brush hog mower deck and the box grader. I haven't tried anything on my yard yet but I'm considering trading this set up in for a nice 72 inch zero turn lawnmower. Can you offer any advice?
Very good question. I have a commercial 72” Grasshopper mower to cut 2 acres. As good as this mower is, it won’t cut what I’ve shown in this video. The grass is too thick and heavy, especially when wet. That being said, if you just have average grass (lawn) then a 72” commercial grade mower would be better than a brush hog/rotary mower. Do NOT use a those for regular lawn; it’s not the same. That is a very nice package that was handed down to you. You’ll have to decide based on the info I gave you what is the best set up for your land. WST
I appreciate your need for perfection, but in all honesty, cutting the tubing at 45 degree angles is not only extra work but it’s also overkill. Welding the tubing on top of the other pieces will hold anything that you put on the lift table. Also using the mig welder will hold it just fine, especially if you’re going to bevel for the extra penetration. I’m not criticizing at all. I’ve been welding my whole life. Just retired two years ago. You do very nice work. Just trying to save you or your viewers some time and without losing any safety or strength issues. I enjoyed watching your work. Thank you for sharing and explaining what you are doing. ✌️👍🇺🇸
Special can also denote a higher performance version. For example, the 365 special is a professional saw with a closed port cylinder for more power versus the 365.
Not all Specials are closed port. The closed port cylinder was entirely an EPA thing. It appeared before the designation change, however, for markets outside North America, the open port cylinder hung around until 08, and the last holdout was the Russian market.
Hi whatdya say there buddy I'm an engineer in the UK and have a question that hard to get an answer to! My pal a prof welder has asked me to relace the broken drive gear that is bronze welded to the clutch drum. I see this Jonsered 16" saw is part of the Husqvarna group. It has a 3/8 pitch -7 teeth sprocket. I measured the ID of the drum which is 63.8mm. I have not been able to get any suppliers to confirm what their inside diameters of the drums are. It seems inputting Jonsered into the net to get anywhere but Husqvarna 36 and 41 has the same data re pitch and 7 teeth but no diameter is stated. All the Chinese supplyers say make sure you check that the ordered item is correct & yet they do not seen to have a measure of more accurately a vernier!!! OMG /Jesus wept. Please can you say if the drum for the saw I state Husq is 63.8mm ID?
It's technically a stove. Boilers are pressurized. This stove operates under atmospheric pressure. Are you pleased with your reaction chamber percentages?
Dude, like alot of crap you buy it hasn't been fully thought through and we suffer by learning "the hard way". So much creosote in the gasification boilers. This tells me you have incomplete combustion. Same as a car with dirty exhaust, like in the 80's. I had exactly the same issue in my 2019 old school non-gasification Heatmor cx450. Since i got it i have cursed Heatmor over the POS and the nightmare cleaning is/was. I had to clean it almost monthly with the creosote so thick I had to beat on my cleaning bar with a 10lb. sledge to get it down each of the ten (10) flue tubes. Not cool. This last fall i stopped by the dealer and they apparently FORGOT to give me a part when it was installed. They gave me a reducer insert for the front fan, but not the back fan. It reduces the hole from about 3 inches to about 1 1/2 inches. Duh! Same principle as a jet engine.... compress the air through a hole and it will come out faster the other side. I went out last week after 2 1/2 months and i easily pushed my cleaning tool down the flue tubes. Also, it wasn't a gooey, orange tinted, crusty pile of shit. There was only very fine grey ash. And in the ash collector at the bottom of the boiler, there was virtually nothing compared to the 5 gallon pail i normally took out. Obviously the firebox burns hotter now and there is less creosote and ash buildup. I'm thinking for yours it may be the same type of problem. A design flaw. An idea worth investigating.
Wondering if a boiler brush would be best for cleaning those tubes. Are you stii satisfied with the boiler? Looking at one of these to heat our house and garage
So far, so good with the boiler. Only one minor issue and it was quickly resolved. Whichever boiler you go with it pays to have local support. I’ve tried boiler brushes but they just didn’t last. After scraping it with the tool I made, a boiler brush could be used afterwards if you wanted. I’m on year 5 with this boiler and I seem to have a pretty good system worked out. Best of luck to you
I came here for your log splitter build and I know life gets in the way hopefully you will be able to update us on the splitter some day I noticed it’s been a year but logger wade came back maybe you will be able to do the same.
Hey Bracken, thanks for the note. I do appreciate it. I know my exit from YT was abrupt and I apologize to all my viewers for that. It was not intended to go that way. My position in my company became very, very busy and I had to take a step back from YT. That being said, I know people want to see what I started and the finished product. It’s running and performing as it should. I have split just over 20 full cords of wood so far with it. Keep posted to the channel as I hope to show something soon
I was just starting to like your sense of humor as well. I am actually surprised to see a response the firewood community is the best I have wrote tons of comments on RU-vid and it seems only the firewood community returns with replies so thank you. And I get the work aspect I am a power lineman. Looking forward so seeing your set up I would like to upgrade mine. It takes me a hour to split 1/3 of a cord it’s a rugged split. It’s pretty stout just slow. And again thank you. @@WSTMike
@@brackenprofaizer2601 the reason why we respond in the firewood community is that we are SHOCKED anyone would watch our videos!! I promise I will make a comeback. Let me thaw out first. By the way, made respect for being a power lineman. You have the worst hours on the face of this earth!!
I read that stihl used Cubic inch rather than cubic centimeter. The first two numbers are that Cubic inch. Ms 170 being 17 Cubic inch, which can convert to cc with a calculator. Also, they flipped the numbers...an older 028 is now a 280 etc
No, that's not correct. My MS180C, for example, has a 31.8 cc engine, which equals 1.94 cubic inches. No chainsaw has a 17 cubic inch engine. The average lawnmower has a 190 cc engine, which equals 11.6 cubic inches.
@@paulmaxwell8851 ok, i maybe didnt explain it well but I wasnt intending to say that the saw was 17 ci, but that 1.7 is likely closer. I was more trying to illustrate that stihl used a different scale to formulate its model numbers than other saws, and that i read, albeit years ago, that they used ci rather than cc like other saw brands do. So for example, your 180 isnt illustrating 31 ccs via its model number as other saws might do, but your 180 as you suggest, is 1.94 ci. Well 194ci is much loser to the model number 180 than 31cc is. It isnt my claim so much as it is what id read years ago. Perhaps you know. Does Stihl use ci or something else in its model number? ...... again, a 1.94 ci saw is called a 180 and not a 31.8cc. My point was merely that using ci will get you much closer with stihl and once we convert stihls model number as reflected in ci to cc, we can get a better approximation to its cc.
Great video. Thank you. I'm just building my wood stores and this has helped me massively. Do I just stack rows with few inches gap? Also logs loosely stacked on top of eachother or tightly stacked? Suppose they'll be under cover so no need to be pedantic about stacking face up or bark down etc?
Glad the vid helped. A few inches of gap is great for airflow. Also, I still stack bark down and do not stack tight. Remember, airflow is your friend. Best of luck to you
I have a lot of experience in hydraulics and machinery. My 40 year old wood splitter I bought from my friend who retired to AZ. It has a 5 X 36 CAT cylinder, trunion mount. The push plate and wedge is similar to yours. I replaced the 12 hp briggs with 15 hp duromax with elect start. The reservoir is similar to yours, thin and tall with lots of surface and little cavitation. A single spool valve with relief with no press, actuated shifts. The gear pump probably from a back hoe, is driven by a jack shaft with about a 3;1 ratio to slow it down to the recommended pump speed. I get my hydraulics from Surplus Center in NE. I see a lot of videos on RU-vid about wood splitters and my biggest concern is safety. They show kids and women operating or helping to load the splitter. Thirty ton is sixty thousand pounds! If there is a knot or any obstruction in the split, the round will explode. If your hand is anywhere near the wood, it will be swollen and purple tomorrow. Controls that are automatic are not safe when you have two people working. and can be a problem with only one because the stroke is going to happen regardless of where your hands are. Better to kill the engine or blow a hose rather than loose a finger or crush a hand. Iguana
Oh! about log lifts. I got a load of rounds, some 3 feet in diameter and I just set the tounge on the ground and rolled it into the jaws. I am 88 and sit down while splitting using my shoulders instead of my back.
Ironic that you have a "no trespassing" sign on your tractor. Technically, legally, the wood belongs to the landowner. The county has ONLY an easement. The property, UP TO THE CENTER LINE OF THE ROADWAY, belongs to the abutting landowners. The trees are the legal property of the landowner. They may not care. But apparently some care. I'm also not sure where you are, saw you wearing a U of M sweatshirt, so if you're in Michigan, there's a treble damages provision for theft of trees. Now the landowner may say the value in the trees was in veneer, or fancy lumber, and you'll be stuck with it. Best to ASK the actual owner of trees before you take them.
It’s a great saw. Ran it at demo days 18 months ago. I’ll run my XS372 LaVanway Husqvarna for a while longer before I part with it. I might come back to the 21st century if I do sell.
24” stroke. You can get a 30” stroke if you are into really big stuff. 24” should be ample. I have a lot of big gnarly wood and I wanted a cylinder that wouldn’t bend or break and give me good tonnage. This cylinder has more than fit the bill. Also, it is a 5” bore with a 3.5” rod. It takes up more area in the cylinder, which uses less fluid and improves my cycle times. You just need a pump and motor to deliver enough fluid.
COULD YOU HAVE GOTTEN THE DIFFERENTIAL FROM A SMALL CAR OR TRUCK. RUN THE DIFFERENTIAL BY THE TRACTORS PTO . ON ONE SIDE OF THE DIFF PUT THE CABLE REEL. ON THE OTHER SIDE PLACE A SIMPLE DRUM BRAKE . I SAW MANY OF THESE ON A PULP WOOD SALE ON THE SUPERIOR NF IN 1950 USED 25 HP WISCONSIN FOR POWER SOURCE. I WISH SOME BODY WHO HAS THE SKILL WOULD BUILD ONE. BY THE WAY THE SALE WAS FOR 25 years. CONTRACTOR WAS TOMAHAWK TIMBER COMPANY WISCONSON USA.
Thanks for the comment. It would be more than I ever needed. Since this video that winch went to the scrap yard. I replaced it with one 10x the power. I just need it when I’m in soft muddy areas and need to bring the wood to me. Works like a champ.
Yeah, got one too. When new, it's a treat, but wait a year and the fuel nozzle will start sticking and the auto-stop feature becomes hassle instead of help.
I get what you are saying. I’ve found that if I keep everything clean and free of crud, things work as they should. Not saying that this will always be the case, but 3 years in and the can oils and gasses my saws many multiples every season. Thanks for the comment. WST
Interesting. I have been using a homebuilt early 80s machine since I built it in the early 80s. It was pulled around with a Honda 200m ATC. It definately shares DNA with yours. Over the years, I have found that simple is best. Mine has had several pump/engine combos over the years. It started out fancy, a junked Cub Cadet provided a Kohler, starter/generator, a bunch of wire, switches and a gauge. All of that is long gone. It currently sports a 12 horse Kohler flathead with points and a "wrap a rope" starter. Once a year I clean the points. Fuel is gravity fed. Gravity never breaks. As far as lifts and tables and wings go, I stack up splits around the machine, usually a ramp on one side and a heap on the other. Roll the big rounds up the ramp, let the heap catch the half that falls. Just an old guy's two cents worth. Best wishes.
Hi Paul! I built my splitter to handle the big boys. I used a ramp like you, but I wanted a challenge and more power. I get a lot of free wood that is everything no one wants to handle. 24” -32” diameter is very common lately. The log lift has been a god send. IT’s still a workout, but not nearly like it used to be. Thanks for sharing your story. Sounds like you have a good setup that works for you. Take care
@@WSTMike I get free dump truck loads from tree companies. Got a maple log once that laying sideways was as tall as me. 24-32" I can still handle as can my machine. The 60"+ maple kicked our asses. These days, the Emerald Ash Borer is my best friend.
Buy a choker for the log Back the Tractor up its faster ,then have your son pull the winch cable back to the log pile you will heat the heck out of your winch otherwise , run your battery down just use the winch when you have too !
Cut a groove in the push plate so it can push past the blade edge. Don't put your hands in there. Maybe leave a 10 inch space in case you get your head in the way lol
